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jwhiteney,

My daughter's 2015 was a vibrator. All fixes were applied. Got better, then got worse again. Dealt with dealers and Honda corporate for close to two years. Their dealer tried everything. Was very helpful.

Tried to trade for something else. Her husband has a 2013 Escape that they are totally happy with. Ford dealer laughed at them and offered peanuts. So did Toyota and Nissan and Mitsubishi and Mazda dealers. Finally their own Honda dealer offered the most and took it as a trade on a 2017 CRV.

Funny thing is that they tracked down the new owner of their 2015. He loves it. Sure, "vibrates a bit" but they don't care. Just turn on 'things'.

There you go. Different folks have different expectations.
 

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jwhiteney,

My daughter's 2015 was a vibrator. All fixes were applied. Got better, then got worse again. Dealt with dealers and Honda corporate for close to two years. Their dealer tried everything. Was very helpful.

Tried to trade for something else. Her husband has a 2013 Escape that they are totally happy with. Ford dealer laughed at them and offered peanuts. So did Toyota and Nissan and Mitsubishi and Mazda dealers. Finally their own Honda dealer offered the most and took it as a trade on a 2017 CRV.

Funny thing is that they tracked down the new owner of their 2015. He loves it. Sure, "vibrates a bit" but they don't care. Just turn on 'things'.

There you go. Different folks have different expectations.
I understand, and thats what I have been doing, turning on the rear defroster smooths it right out. Its just I can't stop thinking that for all the money I spent on this new car I shouldn't really have to do this. I was just hoping there was a way to permanently draw enough power that the RPM would stay a little higher, because even the rear defroster isn't flawless in that it auto shuts off after a period of time, so its just a constant reminder that there is a problem with the car.

It just unfortunate because I love everything else about the car and it makes it hard for me to consider the Pilot as our next vehicle. Even though, I bet, if I bought 100 more 2015 CRVs all of them wouldn't have the problem or at least would have been fixed by the TSB. Just very bad luck.
 

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2014 Honda CR-V EX-L Vibration at idle

Thanks, I've also noticed that when I'm stopped or at idle, there is a noticeable vibration or shaky motion from the engine in drive mode (D), I can feel it on handle and seat. I tried with passenger side but still feel same. When in neutral or (N) mode it is fine but 'D' mode there are a lot of vibration.

Is this normal on 2014 CR-V?
 

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Just purchased a used 2015 CR-V with 8,800 miles. The car is like new and barely broken in. When i test drove it, the car wasn't warmed up and was smooth as butter as I had expected it to be. One day after delivery, I noticed the "vibration at idle" issue when stopped at a light as so many on this and other forums have experienced.

It appears the car idles at about 600 rpm when stopped at a light and this is the level at which the vibration occurs. Once I tap the gas and get just above 600 rpm, the vibration goes away. The only way that I have come up with to rid myself of this problem, short of putting the car in neutral at stops, is to keep the headlights on at all times. The headlights bump the rpm's to about 700 which is just enough to stop the vibration at idle.

I've read so much on this topic on numerous forums in the one week I've owned the car and can't believe that so many owners of various newer Honda's with the 4 Cyl CVT combo have this same issue and Honda is not doing anything to rectify the problem. Had I been familiar with this issue I would not have purchased my CR-V and would have purchased a RAV-4. It sounds like a simple solution would be to raise the rpm at idle with an ECM update?

I really didn't expect this scenario with my new CR-V and have had great luck with the 2 other Hondas I currently own--a 2008 Accord 4 Cyl AT (160,000 miles) and a 2008 Odyssey (120,000 miles). Both have been trouble free and quiet at idle. This is very troublesome and has put a real sour taste in my mouth regarding future Honda purchases!

I shouldn't have to keep the headlights (or some other electrical accessory) on at all times to enjoy a pleasant vibration-free driving experience!!
 

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Same issue here. I assume Honda did this to reach their EPA MPG numbers, but who knows. Switching on the rear defrost gives the same result - bumps the idle up to where it's smooth.

They should remap the idle and offer a flash for the ECM, but it does not appear they intend to do so

Sent from my SM-N910T3 using Tapatalk
 

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all due respect -

so you purchased a 3 year old car (at least 3 year old model) ...
didn't test drive it long enough to warm up?
didn't do basic homework to find a well documented (but minor) issue with this car and now you have sour grapes? (if you google 2015 crv problems the first link is carcomplaints dot com where the biggest issue (50 people out of 350,000) is it vibrates (like crazy)

not to mention we are typically talking about a very small vibration at idle, so small you didn't realize it was there till ya read about it...

please remember you are in one of the cheapest, mass produced, compact, suv with an internal combustion engine 2' away
and the issue can easily be solved by touching a button ....





Just purchased a used 2015 CR-V with 8,800 miles. The car is like new and barely broken in. When i test drove it, the car wasn't warmed up and was smooth as butter as I had expected it to be. One day after delivery, I noticed the "vibration at idle" issue when stopped at a light as so many on this and other forums have experienced.

It appears the car idles at about 600 rpm when stopped at a light and this is the level at which the vibration occurs. Once I tap the gas and get just above 600 rpm, the vibration goes away. The only way that I have come up with to rid myself of this problem, short of putting the car in neutral at stops, is to keep the headlights on at all times. The headlights bump the rpm's to about 700 which is just enough to stop the vibration at idle.

I've read so much on this topic on numerous forums in the one week I've owned the car and can't believe that so many owners of various newer Honda's with the 4 Cyl CVT combo have this same issue and Honda is not doing anything to rectify the problem. Had I been familiar with this issue I would not have purchased my CR-V and would have purchased a RAV-4. It sounds like a simple solution would be to raise the rpm at idle with an ECM update?

I really didn't expect this scenario with my new CR-V and have had great luck with the 2 other Hondas I currently own--a 2008 Accord 4 Cyl AT (160,000 miles) and a 2008 Odyssey (120,000 miles). Both have been trouble free and quiet at idle. This is very troublesome and has put a real sour taste in my mouth regarding future Honda purchases!

I shouldn't have to keep the headlights (or some other electrical accessory) on at all times to enjoy a pleasant vibration-free driving experience!!
 

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Did NOT get the fix.... Now Glad I didn't !!!
I tried to get warranty fix TSB046 Mode 1 & mode 3 for the vibration.
The Dealership rejected me. I was having the Transmission S'ware rre-call fix done at same time.
I pondered the vibration fix for a long time. I was not sure I really wanted it. There is a reason the engineers chose those particular Transmission & radiator mounts for this car, based on a lot of dynamic testing under many conditions. There is always trade-offs in any design... durability, comfort, economy, aesthetics, etc. I tried for months, talking to the dealership & researching the internet, to get a straight answer as to what was I giving up if I had them trade out these components just to fix a very small problem under a very limited driving condition. Never got a good answer.
Anyway, I decided to get it done, but the dealership rejected me due to it being "out of warranty". I was 800 miles past the limit. I explained that the problem was a design flaw, and not a part failure. That it was reported prior to warranty expiration. That it was well known, with a video from Honda, discussions with the sales dept when I test drove & bought the car in May '15, and several phone calls to the service dept to ask questions. They said the sales discussion, test drive comments, and service dept phone calls were NOT part of my customer official record, and thus they did not count toward establishing that my car had the problem (when they know that all the cars had the problem, just some owners didn't make a claim about it). I appealed to Honda USA who merely gave me pat answers and backed the dealer's position. I even have a life-time power train warranty, but they said the transmission and radiator mounts were 'body parts' and not power train parts. I left very upset at their denial and attitude.
But as I continued to ponder, I reverted back to my earlier caution about the trade-offs. I concluded that I am happier with the original parts, as they are probably a better, more durable (not as soft) material, that will last longer and represented the engineer's best design for all those other driving conditions other than the very limited "no-power-needed-idle-condition".
I am a Physicist, and while not an automotive engineer, I still trust my science background to warn me of a possible 'fool's trade' in accepting this fix. You can disagree, but I am happy with the car, now at 50,000 miles, 2 Minnesota winters, and just returned from a 2 week road trip to the Rocky Mountains. Getting great mileage. I love the car, just a bit upset at Honda's response.
When I wear this one out, I will look for a low-mileage '15, without the fix, to maybe buy it cheap and go another round. My friend has a '16, with the fixes installed from the factory, and he is not happy with his mileage.
 

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Noticed it the 2nd week back when I bought it in Dec of 2015.
Back in early 2016 service told me we need to replace the head rests because he could see it vibrating too. I literally laughed in his face it was such a stupid "solution". He was serious though...
I figured this was one of those times that all they could do is dance rather that fix it... software issue probably. Later I heard there was a bulletin out on the problem and that they maybe would one day have a fix but I never held my breath.

Basically when the head lights are on OR the A/C (defog for windows when it is rainy and fogging the windows), there isn't a problem because either one of those keep the RPMs up.
I live in the pacific north west where it is rainy, and dark/dim most of the year so 9 times out of 10 one of those are on . I even tell my wife (she drives it ) to keep the head lights (with FOG lights) on all the time anyway for drivers to see her at all times (even sunny). She doesn't like to, so I turned up sensitivity of AUTO headlights to MAX. She doesn't mind the vibration anyway ...; she might even like it... women ...






I live in the pacific north west where it is rainy, and dark/dim most of the year.
 

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If the 2015 and 16 CRV (under dash) throttle system is like that of the 2017 I own, I could raise your rpm for $.10. Just give me a popsickle stick and a piece of electrical tape. Shave (taper) one end of the stick down so it is sharp on the wide flat side. Start the engine, put it in drive and have someone hold the brake. Now slide that little stick up between the front side of the throttle arm (up above the pedal) and into the bracket that holds it on the firewall.
When you have increased the RPM enough to just get rid of the bad vibes, tape the stick in place. (Put it in park and shut off the engine first, just to be safe.)
Call it the "Chopstick fix."
Now, did it really take 401 posts to figure this out?
 

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If the 2015 and 16 CRV (under dash) throttle system is like that of the 2017 I own, I could raise your rpm for $.10. Just give me a popsickle stick and a piece of electrical tape. Shave (taper) one end of the stick down so it is sharp on the wide flat side. Start the engine, put it in drive and have someone hold the brake. Now slide that little stick up between the front side of the throttle arm (up above the pedal) and into the bracket that holds it on the firewall.
When you have increased the RPM enough to just get rid of the bad vibes, tape the stick in place. (Put it in park and shut off the engine first, just to be safe.)
Call it the "Chopstick fix."
Now, did it really take 401 posts to figure this out?
Tempting....
 

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I was shopping for compact SUV and I almost decide to get CR-V But When I test drive last weekend.
I've noticed that when I'm stopped and in gear, there is a noticeable vibration from the engine, I can feel it on handle and seat.
I tried with passenger side but still feel same.
Is this normal on CR-V ?
I have a 2014 cr-v. No such issues - not notable vibration
 

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2015 vs 2014 CRV

I have a 2014 cr-v. No such issues - not notable vibration
This thread is unique to the 2015 CRV. (And possibly the 2016 model that supposedly had the fixes done at production time.) Its new EarthDreams engine and CVT Transmission combined to cause the problem. A problem that I think was overstated. I have elected to NOT get the fixes. I love the car as-is. (See my post on the previous page - 401).
 

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Add me to the list of people with vibration issues. Mine is a 2016 CR-V EX. The dealership admitted there's a problem but said there is no fix. Honda Canada won't do anything about it. Terrible vehicle and company. They lied when they said it was fixed for 2016. I noticed the window sticker on my 2016 shows a worse fuel rating compared to the 2015 that was sitting on the lot when I bought mine. Some research showed its because Honda increased the idle speed to try to mask the vibration issue. It didn't work so now I have a vibrating SUV that costs me more on fuel compared to the 2015. It is not right that people have to live with these issues on brand new, expensive vehicles and be pushed around by big companies and told to live with it. Shame on you Honda!
 

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Periodically i do an exhaustive search on this action and i can't find any settlement info. I owned a 2015 crv which had all 3 modes of vibration. When the fixes were released i opted for them and it remedied the situation by about 90% for me. I have since sold my 2015 and purchased something else.
 

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Hi for the free fix does the vehicle need to be under factory warranty? If so which one - 3yr/36k bumper to bumper or is it the 5yr/60k mile powertrain warranty?
 
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