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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I had a wheel alignment & balance done our CRV yesterday, tire salesman said we are checking the charge in the batteries of the vehicles we are working on too, and yours is low. How old is the car, I said not even 2 yrs old yet and 55,2?? kms, I thought he was up selling. He said well keep a close eye on it.

This morning we did a 1 hr drive to have Mothers Day breakfast with our daughter, went to start the car, zilch, a couple of lights on the dash nothing else.
I rang roadside assist and the guy was there in 15 mins. :applause:
He checked the battery first 149 amps out of 490, then he put a booster battery onto the terminals, CRV still wouldn't start. He then proceeded to check the fuses under the dash - all good!
Next he checked the fuses in the engine bay and the Ign Main Fuse was blown.
He then put a new battery in for me.

Then the roadside assist guy showed me how to bypass the fuse and get the car started so we could get back home.

This is how to get your CRV started (RH drive model fuse box displayed).
Note: You will have too lock the doors using the built in locks and finally lock the drivers door using the key. The cargo door is locked until the engine is started.



Guess what I am doing tomorrow instead of playing golf. :censored: :censored:
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update:

Today I visited my local Honda Dealership to buy the replacement Fuse Block, no such luck, it had to be ordered from Honda Melbourne.
Hopefully the part will be here tomorrow or the next day at the latest and we can put the screwdriver back in the toolbox.

The radio and the dash fan for the A/C turn Off & On approx. every 5 mins. and when it does happen it gets the Adrenalin pumping thinking what the hell has gone wrong now.
Adding insult to injury, my local Dealership couldn't tell me if the ECU has to be reset or not, they didn't have a clue, neither did the Dealership where I bought the car. :censored: :censored:
I will however be getting them to check the ECU for any codes and checking or fixing them before they are erased.
 

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Had you ever checked the battery fluid?

I'll bet it was low and that's why the battery is/was toast.

I'd say you need to find out what caused the Ign Main Fuse to blow in the first place before you can consider yourself out of the woods.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Had you ever checked the battery fluid?

I'll bet it was low and that's why the battery is/was toast.

I'd say you need to find out what caused the Ign Main Fuse to blow in the first place before you can consider yourself out of the woods.
It was a sealed battery, no way to check or add fluid.

The Roadside Assist tech that put the new battery in last Sunday tried putting the booster cables on my old battery to start the car, but he put them on the wrong posts, but I can't say 100%. I do remember seeing him swap them around, but can't be absolutely certain that the other end was plugged into the booster, otherwise his company would be paying for the Fuse Block and associated costs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Since having the Ignition Main Fuse replaced and the ECU cleared and reset my l/100k (MPG) has become worse, not by much mind you but enough to be of concern to me anyway.
The l/100k has gone up by nearly 1 l/100k, it used to run at around 8.3 l/100k now it struggles to go below 9.2 l/100k on a 100 Km trip on the Hwy at 110 Km/h (70 MPH).

At the 60,000Km Service I asked the Dealer to check the parameters for my fuel usage, they said that they were within the realms and if I was still concerned at the next service, to let them know and they would look into it further.

I am thinking that the Dealership where I used to live maybe used an old ECU program and not one that is current. Is that a possibility?
 

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I'd say anything is a possibility, so don't rule it out.

Were there any codes before the ECU was cleared and reset?

I'm wondering if your ECU just needs to 'learn' your driving habits again.
Thanks for updating us by the way. Not many people do that but it always helps in the long run.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I'd say anything is a possibility, so don't rule it out.

Were there any codes before the ECU was cleared and reset?

I'm wondering if your ECU just needs to 'learn' your driving habits again.
Thanks for updating us by the way. Not many people do that but it always helps in the long run.
I don't know if there were any codes at all as the Dealer said they reset the ECU because myself & them did not know the exact reason the 100 amp fuse blew in the first place. So to clear up any uncertainty they reset it.

My CRV has done approx. 7,000 Kms since the ECU was reset it should have learned my driving habits by now surely.

I always like to give closure to a Thread, it doesn't leave people wondering how it all ended.

P.S. Funny that I should ask about the l/100k, I filled up Tuesday afternoon, this morning I did the >100 km Hwy trip and arrived back home with 8.1 l/100k showing on the midi screen.
 
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