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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
My wife's 2016 CRV Touring sat for a few days due to the Covid-19 pandemic. She needed to go out for an essential reason and started her car. The following lights and warnings came on, EPS, LKAS, and LDW. The vehicle did lack power steering. When I looked at it I determined that the battery was on its last life. In fact the vehicle failed to turn over when I tried. I replaced the 51r size battery with a 35 battery. With the fresh battery, these issues remain. There are NO codes on the scanner. Fearing rodents discovered the soy based coating of Honda's wiring, I traced all wires (I hope) and found them intact. I started underneath at the steering rack and traced out from there. I have checked fuses and have found none to be concerned about.

So is it the EPS module under the dash? If so, why did it suddenly fail when the vehicle was not being used? Is there a way to test this? And most importantly, what the hell?
 

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The EPS "Electronic Power Steering" is located in the engine bay, behind the engine. Just follow the steering shaft passing thru the fire wall down to the unit.
After you replaced the battery have you tried to drive it? Most OBD2 scanners can only report errors concerning engine/emission problems. More expensive scanners will include codes for other systems like EPS, VSA, SRS, ABS ect.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Update:
After reading a bit more about EPS systems, I learned that the sensors in the system expect certain voltages. Which made me curious about the charging system. I checked the voltage at the battery with the vehicle running and it read 12.4 which is a bit low for a system charging. I checked the voltage at the battery with the engine off and the voltage read 12.4. Crap. So there is something wrong with the charging system, most likely the alternator.

Additionally, I hooked my truck up to it via jumper (substantial ones not cheap ones). The voltage at battery with the CRV off was now 13.9. Considering the truck was now handling the load of 2 batteries, I will accept it. In an attempt to trick the CRV into getting the proper voltage, I started it. The voltage at battery dropped to 13.5 and the dash lights remained on and power steering remained non-functional. It was a shot in the dark. I think the system needs a sustained voltage of around 14+ which and I'm only guessing will reset the faults.

As far as your comments and questions Traylaw, I was able to find the EPS its where I started tracing wires when I thought rodents had chewed something. After I replaced the battery, I did not drive it because of the non-functioning power steering which makes quick reactive turns very difficult and well turning in general. My scanner is a low end scanner but in my experience with it, when a code it does not recognize is faulted in the system it reads as "N/A". Unlike when it does not read a code it reads "No Codes". But a higher end scanner would probably be helpful here regardless.

Has anyone had experience with the alternator failing and it effecting systems like the EPS? If so did replacing the alternator fix the issue or were more steps necessary? Thanks in advance!
 

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The charging system has two stages, it will read low if there's no load on it, turn on the lights or fan and it should jump up to 14+

Was the new battery fully charged when you put it in, or just off the shelf?

I'd fully charge the battery and see if that helps. CRVs throw all sorts of codes and have odd temporary issues when the battery fails.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
There is no change in voltage at all when the car is running. The vehicle can't remain running because of the low voltage.
 

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Update:
After reading a bit more about EPS systems, I learned that the sensors in the system expect certain voltages. Which made me curious about the charging system. I checked the voltage at the battery with the vehicle running and it read 12.4 which is a bit low for a system charging. I checked the voltage at the battery with the engine off and the voltage read 12.4. Crap. So there is something wrong with the charging system, most likely the alternator.

Additionally, I hooked my truck up to it via jumper (substantial ones not cheap ones). The voltage at battery with the CRV off was now 13.9. Considering the truck was now handling the load of 2 batteries, I will accept it. In an attempt to trick the CRV into getting the proper voltage, I started it. The voltage at battery dropped to 13.5 and the dash lights remained on and power steering remained non-functional. It was a shot in the dark. I think the system needs a sustained voltage of around 14+ which and I'm only guessing will reset the faults.

As far as your comments and questions Traylaw, I was able to find the EPS its where I started tracing wires when I thought rodents had chewed something. After I replaced the battery, I did not drive it because of the non-functioning power steering which makes quick reactive turns very difficult and well turning in general. My scanner is a low end scanner but in my experience with it, when a code it does not recognize is faulted in the system it reads as "N/A". Unlike when it does not read a code it reads "No Codes". But a higher end scanner would probably be helpful here regardless.

Has anyone had experience with the alternator failing and it effecting systems like the EPS? If so did replacing the alternator fix the issue or were more steps necessary? Thanks in advance!
I'm not an expert by any means.. however, I know that some modern cars require the cars computer or ECM to be updated when replacing the battery. Basically telling the computer the car has a fresh battery, the computer controls the charging rate and alters based on battery life in the system. Maybe find a mechanic with a bidirectional scan tool and see if they can reset your computer to a fresh battery.
 

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There is no change in voltage at all when the car is running. The vehicle can't remain running because of the low voltage.
What do you mean the car can't remain running? 12.4 volt is normal on the CRV. Honda uses a dual mode charging system where it lower the alternator voltage when there is a low electrical load. With the car running and you turn on the headlights you should see the alternator raise the voltage to around 14 volts. If you do a google search onn "honda dual mode charging" you will find a pdf file detailing how it works.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
I mean at idle (after having started the car a few times) the vehicle starts to sputter. Then doing something as simple as pushing the brake will stall the engine. If you do nothing the engine will eventually stall on its own. Again 0 codes and no engine light.

With my truck providing voltage the engine does not sputter or stall.
 

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Would be interesting to see what the alternator output is doing when idling and you step on the brakes and turn on the headlights. Stepping on the brakes will only put a load on the alternator (brake lights) and very little load on the engine. But if the bus volts are tanking that will cause the engine to stumble/stall. It's sounding like your alternator may be have a problem such as blown diodes.
 

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Update:
After reading a bit more about EPS systems, I learned that the sensors in the system expect certain voltages. Which made me curious about the charging system. I checked the voltage at the battery with the vehicle running and it read 12.4 which is a bit low for a system charging. I checked the voltage at the battery with the engine off and the voltage read 12.4. Crap. So there is something wrong with the charging system, most likely the alternator.

Additionally, I hooked my truck up to it via jumper (substantial ones not cheap ones). The voltage at battery with the CRV off was now 13.9. Considering the truck was now handling the load of 2 batteries, I will accept it. In an attempt to trick the CRV into getting the proper voltage, I started it. The voltage at battery dropped to 13.5 and the dash lights remained on and power steering remained non-functional. It was a shot in the dark. I think the system needs a sustained voltage of around 14+ which and I'm only guessing will reset the faults.

As far as your comments and questions Traylaw, I was able to find the EPS its where I started tracing wires when I thought rodents had chewed something. After I replaced the battery, I did not drive it because of the non-functioning power steering which makes quick reactive turns very difficult and well turning in general. My scanner is a low end scanner but in my experience with it, when a code it does not recognize is faulted in the system it reads as "N/A". Unlike when it does not read a code it reads "No Codes". But a higher end scanner would probably be helpful here regardless.

Has anyone had experience with the alternator failing and it effecting systems like the EPS? If so did replacing the alternator fix the issue or were more steps necessary? Thanks in advance!
Honda's use a dual charge mode charging system. Until the battery is detected to be fully charged (Honda uses a current sensor on the ground side of the battery for this) the charging system should be delivering 14.2-14.5 vdc.

Once the engine detects the battery is fully charged, the charging system drops down to 12.4-12.5vdc... all in the name of saving a bit of fuel. Honda's system has been this way for more than 20 years now... and while they do modernize the actual charging circuits over time.. the algorithm remains the same.

With the engine on, and in park.. it should revert to high charge state. With the engine on, turn on your headlights and recheck the voltage delivered to the battery. Headlights turned on over-rides the low charge state in the charging system. If you still see lower than 14 vdc.. then you have a charging issue of some kind that needs diagnosis. And in this case, as Traylaw noted it is most often it is a bad diode in the charging system.. which is easily detected with a charging system test for ripple voltage.
 

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I mean at idle (after having started the car a few times) the vehicle starts to sputter. Then doing something as simple as pushing the brake will stall the engine. If you do nothing the engine will eventually stall on its own. Again 0 codes and no engine light.

With my truck providing voltage the engine does not sputter or stall.
OK... just to be simple and sure up front ---> are you certain you cleaned and properly tightened the vehicle connections to the new battery you installed? Did you inspect and check that nothing else in the wiring harness to the battery is damaged or loose?

Given you have confirmed the above....and have confirmed the new battery is good......based on these symptoms..... definitely need to get the charging system checked and diagnosed.

Thing is.. if there is a charging system problem, I am surprised it is not giving you the appropriate warning light indicator. Then again.. things broken often do not actually behave as expected.
 

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The EPS "Electronic Power Steering" is located in the engine bay, behind the engine. Just follow the steering shaft passing thru the fire wall down to the unit.
After you replaced the battery have you tried to drive it? Most OBD2 scanners can only report errors concerning engine/emission problems. More expensive scanners will include codes for other systems like EPS, VSA, SRS, ABS ect.
I have heard that on some late model cars, when you change the battery, you have to reset one of the computer management systems with a proper scan tool, or the vehicle might not run properly, or you might have other functionality issues. I have a 2016 EX, and had the dealer change my battery last year under warranty, but I didn't know to ask if this particular vehicle needs that system reset in order to avoid issues. I only learned about this "reset" recently while watching a video by the famous online mechanic, Scotty Kilmer who talked it about. And apparently, he said you need an expensive scan tool to reset it, and not a cheap one. I almost became an auto tech years ago, so I still try to stay up on these things, but I'm just hearing about it now! Lol! Hope this helps.
 

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My 16 Touring is probably going to do 8 plus weeks per tank of gas right now. rodent damage is often sudden, but usually is in the fall not spring as they nest up for winter. As for Scott Kilmer, he talks nonsense. There is no reset needed or tool to do it. Crv batteries can be replaced at home. Only thing the car forgot was the seat or mirror setting.
 

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My wife's 2016 CRV Touring sat for a few days due to the Covid-19 pandemic. She needed to go out for an essential reason and started her car. The following lights and warnings came on, EPS, LKAS, and LDW. The vehicle did lack power steering. When I looked at it I determined that the battery was on its last life. In fact the vehicle failed to turn over when I tried. I replaced the 51r size battery with a 35 battery. With the fresh battery, these issues remain. There are NO codes on the scanner. Fearing rodents discovered the soy based coating of Honda's wiring, I traced all wires (I hope) and found them intact. I started underneath at the steering rack and traced out from there. I have checked fuses and have found none to be concerned about.

So is it the EPS module under the dash? If so, why did it suddenly fail when the vehicle was not being used? Is there a way to test this? And most importantly, what the hell?
I just joined this group and I came across your post ... Something similar is happening to my 2016 Honda CRV as well

2016 Honda CRV power steering light -

I am wondering if anyone else is having this problem -

on cold mornings , -30 Celsius, when I start my car , the power steering light comes on , and the power steering is locked ... the power steering is electrical on these generation crv’s. So I brought it in to the dealer and they said I have a low battery , I purchased a new battery, and it happened again ... so now they are telling me that because of the cold and because I have my heated seats on, and radio and heat on its drawing from the battery too much and then the battery is drained and won’t allow the power steering to work ... the car still starts, but won’t allow the power steering system to work ... so basically I have a vehicle that can’t support all its gadgets when it’s cold out , because the battery can’t handle it ... they’ve suggested I get a battery maintainer , which basically helps the battery stay charged ... I’ve searched online, and I’ve read that this generation crv has a parasitic draw ... that something is drawing from the battery, but they don’t know what , and it causes the car to malfunction... and drain the battery ... it seems that a lot of other owners with this generation CRV are experiencing the same thing, but they’ve all been told that it’s the battery ... but putting in a new battery doesn’t fix the problem.
 

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My wife's 2016 CRV Touring sat for a few days due to the Covid-19 pandemic. She needed to go out for an essential reason and started her car. The following lights and warnings came on, EPS, LKAS, and LDW. The vehicle did lack power steering. When I looked at it I determined that the battery was on its last life. In fact the vehicle failed to turn over when I tried. I replaced the 51r size battery with a 35 battery. With the fresh battery, these issues remain. There are NO codes on the scanner. Fearing rodents discovered the soy based coating of Honda's wiring, I traced all wires (I hope) and found them intact. I started underneath at the steering rack and traced out from there. I have checked fuses and have found none to be concerned about.

So is it the EPS module under the dash? If so, why did it suddenly fail when the vehicle was not being used? Is there a way to test this? And most importantly, what the hell?

Are you still having the same issues?
 

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My wife's 2016 CRV Touring sat for a few days due to the Covid-19 pandemic. She needed to go out for an essential reason and started her car. The following lights and warnings came on, EPS, LKAS, and LDW. The vehicle did lack power steering. When I looked at it I determined that the battery was on its last life. In fact the vehicle failed to turn over when I tried. I replaced the 51r size battery with a 35 battery. With the fresh battery, these issues remain. There are NO codes on the scanner. Fearing rodents discovered the soy based coating of Honda's wiring, I traced all wires (I hope) and found them intact. I started underneath at the steering rack and traced out from there. I have checked fuses and have found none to be concerned about.

So is it the EPS module under the dash? If so, why did it suddenly fail when the vehicle was not being used? Is there a way to test this? And most importantly, what the hell?
I have a 2016 Honda CRV touring purchased new late 2016. I started having battery issues with the vehicle not starting within 6 months of purchase with short trips. I had it tested several times and it tested fine. Finally I replaced the battery last year. This morning, May 2021, I went out to my car and looked on the passenger side seat near where the seat belt clips in to find that there was a hole burned in the seat of significant size. I believe the battery was dying because the heating element in the passenger seat was shorting out. I wonder if anyone else has had this issue. I cannot seem to find any recalls for this issue. I am bringing it to the dealer tomorrow.
 
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