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This post is just a clarification and expansion of Gravy’s post back in 2010 regarding converting a switched 12v accessory power outlet to constant hot on the 2017 Honda CR-V. (24-do-yourself-mods/10281-accessory-power-socket-always)

I finally found the relay that needs to be jumped in the 2017 – it is in the same control unit as the under-dash fuses, but higher up and barely reachable from below. The fuse/relay control unit is under the driver’s side dash, to the left.

There are two black relays in a 2017 EX-L. The higher one is relay No. 2, for the front 12v Accessory Power Outlet (fuse 29) and the lower one is relay No. 1, for the center console 12v Accessory Power Outlet (fuse 10). These relays tell the circuit to turn off when the engine and ACC are turned off; that is all they control. You can jump one or both – I used only the lower one, controlling the in-console Accessory Power Outlet. I was surprised to discover they did not also control the USB ports at those locations, but they do not.

As Gravy mentioned in his 2010 post, you could remove the relay and put .25 inch blade connectors onto each end of a four inch wire and plug the ends into two of the four relay slots. Use the two vertical slots on the right side of the relay socket. This would make the socket always on at all times. I would use a 14- or 12-gauge wire.

For my purposes, I instead jumped from the relay socket to an LED-lighted switch (rated at 20 amps) and from the switch back to the relay outlet, with the third wire from the switch grounded to an existing bolt in the firewall. Gravy suggested you could leave the relay in place and tap in a switch to the relay, but I wasn’t sure how that was done, so I removed the relay and tossed it in the glove box in case I ever return the wiring to stock. When the switch is turned on I have power to the accessory power outlet whether the ignition or ACC is on or not.

So my console socket is hot when the switch light is on, which is almost always. If I plug something in that I don’t want to drain the battery when I leave the car for an extended period, it is much easier to hit the switch on the way out the door rather than dig around in the console to pull the plug out.

As Gravy suggested, you should remove the fuses for the accessory power outlets (Nos. 10 or 29) while working on this as they are always hot and you could easily to blow them (like I did twice). Surprisingly, they are 20 amp fuses but the coverings all indicate a 15 amp max load (given the 18 Watt output).

I hope some of you find this useful.


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