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To folks who've changed the speakers - did you have to cut anything around the oem speaker grill inside the door liner? Crutchfield insists - even after talking to them - that we have to cut around the built-in door grill to fit the new speaker with the universal mount. Pioneer on the other hand tells me all I have to do is cut the tabs off the universal mount and it will fit but neither of them were sure for the gen V CRVs.

Anyhow that's the main thing keeping me from grabbing the new speakers - i'm not keen on cutting into a very expensive to replace door liner. thanks for any info.
I didn't use the mount provided by Pioneer. The one provided by Crutchfield is a better fit, since it's made for CRV.
Although I shaved off a few mm from that plastic edge around the speaker grill, I don't think it is really necessary. I could still see a tiny gap in between. Shaving a bit of it might prevent some unwanted vibrations, in case the plastic edge is touching the speaker.
On the other hand, fitting the tweeters required some more serious enlargement of the original hole. I prefered to do that and get a tight fit, instead of using glue or something. The Pioneer tweeter mount is covering nicely the old hole and everything is looking better than the original, in my opinion.
 

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To folks who've changed the speakers - did you have to cut anything around the oem speaker grill inside the door liner? Crutchfield insists - even after talking to them - that we have to cut around the built-in door grill to fit the new speaker with the universal mount. Pioneer on the other hand tells me all I have to do is cut the tabs off the universal mount and it will fit but neither of them were sure for the gen V CRVs.

Anyhow that's the main thing keeping me from grabbing the new speakers - i'm not keen on cutting into a very expensive to replace door liner. thanks for any info.
I'm pretty sure they have, or you can make, adaptor rings that make any metal cutting unnecessary. I've seen YouTube videos on it. IIRC, it was Five Star Car Stereo. Cant' remember for sure but I know I've seen them. The speakers just need to be spaced outwards about 3/4" so the back side of the cones clears the sheet metal. I saw videos where they made them out of mdf, and also out of black abs. Just simple round spacers that brought the speaker out of the hole far enough to clear. I think now there are ready made ones available.
 

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To folks who've changed the speakers - did you have to cut anything around the oem speaker grill inside the door liner? Crutchfield insists - even after talking to them - that we have to cut around the built-in door grill to fit the new speaker with the universal mount. Pioneer on the other hand tells me all I have to do is cut the tabs off the universal mount and it will fit but neither of them were sure for the gen V CRVs.

Anyhow that's the main thing keeping me from grabbing the new speakers - i'm not keen on cutting into a very expensive to replace door liner. thanks for any info.
I'm pretty sure they have, or you can make, adaptor rings that make any metal cutting unnecessary. I've seen YouTube videos on it. IIRC, it was Five Star Car Stereo. Cant' remember for sure but I know I've seen them. The speakers just need to be spaced outwards about 3/4" so the back side of the cones clears the sheet metal. I saw videos where they made them out of mdf, and also out of black abs. Just simple round spacers that brought the speaker out of the hole far enough to clear. I think now there are ready made ones available.
Let me clarify that NO metal cutting was necessary for those Pioneer speakers.
I was only talking about the plastic edge surrounding the woofer grill, on the inside of the door cover and about the plastic holder for the tweeter, which had to get the inner hole enlarged.
The woofer grill is still there, untouched and it looks unchanged after the speaker replacement.
 

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To folks who've changed the speakers - did you have to cut anything around the oem speaker grill inside the door liner? Crutchfield insists - even after talking to them - that we have to cut around the built-in door grill to fit the new speaker with the universal mount. Pioneer on the other hand tells me all I have to do is cut the tabs off the universal mount and it will fit but neither of them were sure for the gen V CRVs.

Anyhow that's the main thing keeping me from grabbing the new speakers - i'm not keen on cutting into a very expensive to replace door liner. thanks for any info.
Nothing to cut, you can buy adaptor rings for the 6.5" speaker and adaptor for the wire.

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk
 

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Let me clarify that NO metal cutting was necessary for those Pioneer speakers.
I was only talking about the plastic edge surrounding the woofer grill, on the inside of the door cover and about the plastic holder for the tweeter, which had to get the inner hole enlarged.
The woofer grill is still there, untouched and it looks unchanged after the speaker replacement.
Thanks for the info. I'm not too worried about the tweeter part since those covers aren't too expensive but also I probably won't swap them until I can find a way to connect the tweeters without cutting into the oem harness.

How did you end up cutting the edge? did you use a blade knife or dremel?

On the tweeter connectors, I was following a civic thread where folks were suggesting using the older acura tweeters where the connector is hooked up via cables vs. being connected directly but those seem to be wrong types. I'm now looking into some folks who took off the connector from the oem and soldered it to the new one. My last option would be finding a two pin connector that fits in the oem connector and secure it.
 

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Adaptors are available to fit those connectors. Try Crutchfield, or Amazon. The same companies that make the head unit adaptor harness kits make them.
 

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Let me clarify that NO metal cutting was necessary for those Pioneer speakers.
I was only talking about the plastic edge surrounding the woofer grill, on the inside of the door cover and about the plastic holder for the tweeter, which had to get the inner hole enlarged.
The woofer grill is still there, untouched and it looks unchanged after the speaker replacement.
Thanks for the info. I'm not too worried about the tweeter part since those covers aren't too expensive but also I probably won't swap them until I can find a way to connect the tweeters without cutting into the oem harness.

How did you end up cutting the edge? did you use a blade knife or dremel?

On the tweeter connectors, I was following a civic thread where folks were suggesting using the older acura tweeters where the connector is hooked up via cables vs. being connected directly but those seem to be wrong types. I'm now looking into some folks who took off the connector from the oem and soldered it to the new one. My last option would be finding a two pin connector that fits in the oem connector and secure it.
I didn't cut the tweeter harness. It is still there, inside the door, unused.
The twitter is connected via a new cable, with an inline crossover (provided by Pioneer) to the woofer, which is connected to the original harness via a Metra connector (provided by Crutchfield)
To enlarge the tweeter mount, I used a file.
 

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Adaptors are available to fit those connectors. Try Crutchfield, or Amazon. The same companies that make the head unit adaptor harness kits make them.
They do make connectors for the speakers however it seems no one's bothered to make them for the tweeters. Metra - who make the bulk of the speaker connectors - said they had no plans to make them.

I didn't cut the tweeter harness. It is still there, inside the door, unused.
The twitter is connected via a new cable, with an inline crossover (provided by Pioneer) to the woofer, which is connected to the original harness via a Metra connector (provided by Crutchfield)
To enlarge the tweeter mount, I used a file.
Ok this clarifies one of the install videos that pioneer had talking about the cable. By doing this - bypassing the tweeter harness - have you noticed any side effects on the HU? I was under the impression that oem tweeters were connected to the HU directly and was worried if the HU didn't 'see' any tweeters then it might alter the sound output.
 

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Ok this clarifies one of the install videos that pioneer had talking about the cable. By doing this - bypassing the tweeter harness - have you noticed any side effects on the HU? I was under the impression that oem tweeters were connected to the HU directly and was worried if the HU didn't 'see' any tweeters then it might alter the sound output.
I have a similar setup, I have a Touring (w/ oem amp). I put a set of infinity kappa components in last year and wired them both together via the crossover unit. I effectively abandoned the factory tweeter wire.

This approach works well... different tweeters have different lower range floors, and if you use the stock wire you're pairing an artermarket tweeter with an oem crossover.

I'm going to post at some point about it but I installed Viper4Android over the weekend on the head unit and it had a tremendous impact. Whatever the OEM dsp settings are, they're losing the bottom 1/4 of the entire spectrum and the system now sounds fantastic.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
 

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Ok this clarifies one of the install videos that pioneer had talking about the cable. By doing this - bypassing the tweeter harness - have you noticed any side effects on the HU? I was under the impression that oem tweeters were connected to the HU directly and was worried if the HU didn't 'see' any tweeters then it might alter the sound output.
The factory tweeter has also a capacitor soldered next to it, acting as crossover. It doesn't have a separate HU connection.

See this diagram: https://imgur.com/uQTw4vU

Capture.jpg

The only thing I noticed is that it sounds much better :)
 

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I didn't cut the tweeter harness. It is still there, inside the door, unused.
The twitter is connected via a new cable, with an inline crossover (provided by Pioneer) to the woofer, which is connected to the original harness via a Metra connector (provided by Crutchfield)
To enlarge the tweeter mount, I used a file.
I wonder how well this works out with us po' folks with older (Gen3) models, where the tweeters are in the dash, not the door. Also, that's not a woofer, it's a midrange. A woofer would be much larger and cover a different frequency range. There are very few car audio solutions that use woofers.
 

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They do make connectors for the speakers however it seems no one's bothered to make them for the tweeters. Metra - who make the bulk of the speaker connectors - said they had no plans to make them.
I don't know why there would be a need, as every tweeter connector I've ever seen has the same connector as the midrange, so it would use the same adaptor.
 

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The factory tweeter has also a capacitor soldered next to it, acting as crossover. It doesn't have a separate HU connection.

See this diagram: https://imgur.com/uQTw4vU

The only thing I noticed is that it sounds much better :)
Please don't post links to image storage sites. Instead, just post the image here directly. That way it will always be here and will never disappear after another Photobucket fiasco. Posting images directly in posts here is a provided service, easily done when posting. Please edit your post and remove the imgur link and replace it with the actual image. You will have my thanks and everyone else's as well. Thanks.
 

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Please don't post links to image storage sites. Instead, just post the image here directly. That way it will always be here and will never disappear after another Photobucket fiasco. Posting images directly in posts here is a provided service, easily done when posting. Please edit your post and remove the imgur link and replace it with the actual image. You will have my thanks and everyone else's as well. Thanks.
Done that. But just for the record, that schematic is not my finding. I took the link from another audio thread in this forum.
 

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I wonder how well this works out with us po' folks with older (Gen3) models, where the tweeters are in the dash, not the door. Also, that's not a woofer, it's a midrange. A woofer would be much larger and cover a different frequency range. There are very few car audio solutions that use woofers.
They call it woofer on crutchfield:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA652C/Pioneer-TS-A652C.html

Product highlights:
component speaker system includes 2 woofers and 2 tweeters
6-1/2" multilayer carbon- and mica-reinforced IMPP woofer cone with elastic polymer surround
separate 3/4" polyimide hard dome tweeter with inline crossover
woofer adapter and tweeter mounting equipment included
grilles not included
handles up to 80 watts RMS (350 watts peak power)
frequency response: 34-49,000 Hz
impedance: 4 ohms
sensitivity: 85 dB
woofer top-mount depth: 2-3/8"
warranty: 1 year

in theory, midrange speakers are designed to work between 250 and 2000Hz. These speakers work way below 250Hz (see my charts on page 16)
So while they are not woofers, as per the woofer definition, they are more than midrange, at the same time.
 

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They call it woofer on crutchfield:

https://www.crutchfield.com/p_130TSA652C/Pioneer-TS-A652C.html

Product highlights:
component speaker system includes 2 woofers and 2 tweeters
6-1/2" multilayer carbon- and mica-reinforced IMPP woofer cone with elastic polymer surround
separate 3/4" polyimide hard dome tweeter with inline crossover
woofer adapter and tweeter mounting equipment included
grilles not included
handles up to 80 watts RMS (350 watts peak power)
frequency response: 34-49,000 Hz
impedance: 4 ohms
sensitivity: 85 dB
woofer top-mount depth: 2-3/8"
warranty: 1 year

in theory, midrange speakers are designed to work between 250 and 2000Hz. These speakers work way below 250Hz (see my charts on page 16)
So while they are not woofers, as per the woofer definition, they are more than midrange, at the same time.
^^ 100% correct calling it a woofer. Some people don't like being corrected, though. :coffeecup
 

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I have a similar setup, I have a Touring (w/ oem amp). I put a set of infinity kappa components in last year and wired them both together via the crossover unit. I effectively abandoned the factory tweeter wire.

This approach works well... different tweeters have different lower range floors, and if you use the stock wire you're pairing an artermarket tweeter with an oem crossover.

I'm going to post at some point about it but I installed Viper4Android over the weekend on the head unit and it had a tremendous impact. Whatever the OEM dsp settings are, they're losing the bottom 1/4 of the entire spectrum and the system now sounds fantastic.

Sent from my Pixel 3 XL using Tapatalk
How did you install viper4android? Is your headunit hacked? The infotaiment is dated ragarding sound settings compared to the usual headunit

Sent from my CLT-L04 using Tapatalk
 

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