2017 CRV VS. Harbor Freight oil extractor
Just came in from the garage changing my oil... wife asks me, "did you spill some gas" :banana:
I thought i'd take a few minutes to mention my oil extractor from harbor freight ( green tank style). I'm not a fan of not changing the filter, believe me but during the winter given the oil dilution, i've decided this will be sufficient.
I found the oil extractor to be a good purchase and i'm happy with it's performance.
The process was simple and quick. I warmed the crv by driving around including a stint on the highway. Removed the dipstick and inserted the thinnest plastic extractor tube. Now this took some time and patience. At first i didn't think it was going to go in all the way but eventually i did get it to the bottom. I'd suggest marking the extractor tube alongside of the dipstick so you can verify the depth of insertion.
I removed the oil filler cap to make sure there was no restriction or weird vacuum someplace in the engine. started my 4hp 15 gallon air compressor (compressor never shut off while sucking out the oil but i believe a smaller air compressor would work fine). I let the extractor tank build a suction then connected the extractor tube to the extractor hose leading to the tank and opened the valve.
It did take awhile to suck out the oil but the process is very simple. It was easy to remove the cap from the tank to empty the contents into my container that i bring to the recycling center. i'm pleased with the process, just don't freak out if the tube doesn't seem to want to go into the dipstick hole it should with some patience and rotating.
I didn't pay close attention to amounts removed and added but my dipstick was reading about 2" over full :jawdrop: before the change and it looked like i removed slightly over 5 quarts. it took about 3.5 quarts to get the post change oil level reading right between the marks on the dipstick so it must have gotten most of it. I'm planning to run the oil at this level to allow for increase during the winter months. I'll watch the level and plan to repeat the process halfway into the winter.
I thought i'd take a few minutes to mention my oil extractor from harbor freight ( green tank style). I'm not a fan of not changing the filter, believe me but during the winter given the oil dilution, i've decided this will be sufficient.
I found the oil extractor to be a good purchase and i'm happy with it's performance.
The process was simple and quick. I warmed the crv by driving around including a stint on the highway. Removed the dipstick and inserted the thinnest plastic extractor tube. Now this took some time and patience. At first i didn't think it was going to go in all the way but eventually i did get it to the bottom. I'd suggest marking the extractor tube alongside of the dipstick so you can verify the depth of insertion.
I removed the oil filler cap to make sure there was no restriction or weird vacuum someplace in the engine. started my 4hp 15 gallon air compressor (compressor never shut off while sucking out the oil but i believe a smaller air compressor would work fine). I let the extractor tank build a suction then connected the extractor tube to the extractor hose leading to the tank and opened the valve.
It did take awhile to suck out the oil but the process is very simple. It was easy to remove the cap from the tank to empty the contents into my container that i bring to the recycling center. i'm pleased with the process, just don't freak out if the tube doesn't seem to want to go into the dipstick hole it should with some patience and rotating.
I didn't pay close attention to amounts removed and added but my dipstick was reading about 2" over full :jawdrop: before the change and it looked like i removed slightly over 5 quarts. it took about 3.5 quarts to get the post change oil level reading right between the marks on the dipstick so it must have gotten most of it. I'm planning to run the oil at this level to allow for increase during the winter months. I'll watch the level and plan to repeat the process halfway into the winter.
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Timely post as I just came in from changing my oil on our '13 EX. I did it the old fashioned way. Drove it up on some 2x4's and crawled under it. I did the filter too. I used Mobil 1 year long oil last time (what I drained out) but since we only drove less than 5k miles in the year it's been in there I went with Mobil 1 0-20 Advanced Fuel Economy. Should be good for another year now. I need to double check what the MM says oil life is, but IIRC it said 40% last time I got gas.
My son has an oil extractor that has a manual pump on it. We used it to change the trans fluid a couple of months ago. I may have to look into borrowing it to do the oil next year or just plan on doing it when we're down there visiting. It worked well on the trans fluid, no reason it wouldn't work on the crankcase too.
Now, about that filter change....
My son has an oil extractor that has a manual pump on it. We used it to change the trans fluid a couple of months ago. I may have to look into borrowing it to do the oil next year or just plan on doing it when we're down there visiting. It worked well on the trans fluid, no reason it wouldn't work on the crankcase too.
Now, about that filter change....
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gets more oil out.... Completely impossible because the bottom of the drain pain is the bottom of the plug hole.
AI actually tried one to see what the fuss was about, then pulled the drain plug to see how much those things leave behind, it's quite a bit.
Oil extractors are the dumbest invention ever because the crud in the bottom of the pan never drains out as it should be. Just like those that use them on Honda transmissions then blame Honda making a bad transmission.
The drain plugs are there for a reason. Not just to drain oil for oil change, but oil pan acts as low place for carbon and other bits to settle then be drained out when plug is pulled.
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For transmission oil, I don’t use oil extractor because of the tight spacing. Also drain plug and baffle/filter for transmission oil are magnetize to catch the shaving.
For engine oil, oem drain plug is not magnetize and the purpose of the filter is to catch the crud and fod in the oil. Oil extractor is relying on vacuum to suck the oil out rather than relying on gravity. Oil extractor may not work for you but works for me. Never have engine issue.
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what you dont realize is that crud get to 2 of the most IMPORTANT engine components before it reaches the filter:
Oil pump which sucks up the oil and pushes through filter to rest of engine.
Crank bearings and piston walls both get oil from splash, not just pressure from the pump after the filter.
That tube you use only sucks from one small position of the oil pan, missing literally everything else which would drain as the oil flows out the drain plug.
It's not a matter of does or doesnt work for me. I'm an engine tech, if those were meant to be used the drain plug wouldnt exist.
Transmission magnetic deals with barely 5% of actual transmission contamination. But unlike engine oil, transmission fluid does not create carbon build up.
I will put $500 that your oil pan is pulled off it's full of junk because of it not being properly drained each change. Those tools ARE NOT FOR OIL CHANGES. They are for draining fluids during repairs to eliminate messes.
Just FYI, been a tech professionally for almost 20 yrs, been under the hood since I could see over the grill with a step stool. Any tech worth paying for their time will tell you that doing oil changes that way is bad for engines and ALSO VOIDS ANY AND ALL ENGINE WARRANTIES.
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Oil pump which sucks up the oil and pushes through filter to rest of engine.
Crank bearings and piston walls both get oil from splash, not just pressure from the pump after the filter.
That tube you use only sucks from one small position of the oil pan, missing literally everything else which would drain as the oil flows out the drain plug.
It's not a matter of does or doesnt work for me. I'm an engine tech, if those were meant to be used the drain plug wouldnt exist.
Transmission magnetic deals with barely 5% of actual transmission contamination. But unlike engine oil, transmission fluid does not create carbon build up.
I will put $500 that your oil pan is pulled off it's full of junk because of it not being properly drained each change. Those tools ARE NOT FOR OIL CHANGES. They are for draining fluids during repairs to eliminate messes.
Just FYI, been a tech professionally for almost 20 yrs, been under the hood since I could see over the grill with a step stool. Any tech worth paying for their time will tell you that doing oil changes that way is bad for engines and ALSO VOIDS ANY AND ALL ENGINE WARRANTIES.
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I do not see a problem if you do an interim oil change via extraction before each service...for instance.. my oil minder is telling me to change my oil.. and there’s 3K km and 6 months still to go for the next service.. so I can do the oil change for $50 bucks or so without the mess.. and wait for the regular service do the dirty work for me 
.. well I have to confess, This time I will take it to service sooner as I did not know a way to change the oil without buying tools.. or doing a mess In my garage, honestly I am not that kind of “mech” guy.. call me whatever You wanted.. but I am not .... btw Has someone tried the cheap “oil extractors/pumps” from ebay or ali express?
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.. well I have to confess, This time I will take it to service sooner as I did not know a way to change the oil without buying tools.. or doing a mess In my garage, honestly I am not that kind of “mech” guy.. call me whatever You wanted.. but I am not .... btw Has someone tried the cheap “oil extractors/pumps” from ebay or ali express? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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yea i mean, any extractor that's powerful enough and has a thin enough extraction tube to fit down the dipstick hole should work.I do not see a problem if you do an interim oil change via extraction before each service...for instance.. my oil minder is telling me to change my oil.. and there’s 3K km and 6 months still to go for the next service.. so I can do the oil change for $50 bucks or so without the mess.. and wait for the regular service do the dirty work for me
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so in my case i get about 1.5 quarts of gas in my oil in about 1500 miles during winter months. it needs to be changed and to me it'd be needless to change the wix filter every 1500 much less put on my snowmobile suit and lay underneath it outside to remove the plug. so i pick up a 5 qt bottle of 0-20 mobil one for 25$ and it takes me about 5-10 minutes to exchange the oil. simple, clean, and cheap insurance imo.
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in your case it makes sense, your having to compensate for the dilution problem. But I wouldnt have kept a vehicle doing that because of the damage being done to internally lubricated parts. The level you suit up to do one surprises me though. I do mine year round on both vehicles, at most nosed into my garage otherwise I just lay on cardboard or plywood.
as for 3000km to next service....guess that doesnt make a bit of sense to me. Oil change due with that little bit of time remaining before "service" might as well have just taken it in and had it all done and over.
Honestly if you can use the pump and refill the oil the work of changing is easy. 1 wrench, 1 oil filter wrench, 1 drain pan. Takes me less than 10 minutes.
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as for 3000km to next service....guess that doesnt make a bit of sense to me. Oil change due with that little bit of time remaining before "service" might as well have just taken it in and had it all done and over.
Honestly if you can use the pump and refill the oil the work of changing is easy. 1 wrench, 1 oil filter wrench, 1 drain pan. Takes me less than 10 minutes.
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Man, that much gas in your oil in only 1500 miles?
Your gas mileage must suck big time.
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