[Marie2017]

I recently changed battery for 2017 honda crv ex and drove approximately about 200 miles in a 3 day period. Then warning lights like collision, uphill, tpms , brake system etc flashing. Had it serviced in a honda and they told me that they entered the codes and it was good…2 days after , driving it a good 160-200 miles, warning lights are back at it again. I really live far from the dealership and could not bring it right away…any suggestions? Thanks

 

[Carbuff2]

If the lights went away for a while, but re-appeared, suspect a poor battery or ground connection.

SEARCH twist test.

 

[Marie2017]

If the lights went away for a while, but re-appeared, suspect a poor battery or ground connection.

SEARCH twist test.

Thanks

 

[whatsthatnoise]

Hello fellow Honda CRV owners,

I purchased a 2018 Honda CRV EX AWD brand new and have around 60k miles on it today.
Coming from a Honda Fit, and before that a Honda Civic, my love for Honda is strong (Hell, even my lawn mower is a Honda).

No issues outside of standard maintenance. Except for all warning lights on the dash. I read over the threads on this forum, hoping, praying that there would be some insight into what is behind this odd occurrence, only to bet read the standard 'to do list' to resolve the issue:

1. Reset the radio in accessory mode
2. Unplug the battery terminals
3. Replace the battery
4. Bring it to the dealership aka light money on fire and pray

The first time it happened, I freaked out. It was a bit over 50k miles and I called the dealership. Indeed they were aware this happens, and they actually recommended unplugging battery terminals, and if it happens again, to replace the battery. I didn't even have to bring the car in!

That didn't work. It stopped it, only for it to come back a long while after.

Then it happened again. I carry a 10mm socket wrench in the glove to quickly resolve the issue and it went away for a long while.

But then it happened again. And within two stars of battery unplug/replug, again .. And then again.

OK. Why? Typically I would drive for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour after a reset as we would be going somewhere. But when it consistently came back on these were short trips, maybe 5 to 10 minutes. Interesting... So I unplug/replug, drive it for 30-1 hour, and it's gone. Great.

But then it happened AGAIN. And again. And again. I know, I'm a broken record. BUT hear me out: I think I'm on to something.

I believe the issue is directly related to the car radio head unit. I find that if I drive the car with LKAS/ACC at a low level, 40-50MPH, that something is going on behind the scenes. As an engineer, I am leaning towards this being bad programming.

My hypothesis is that the combination of short drives after clearing the code, and/or driving the car with LKAS/ACC at low speeds, causes some type of memory leak in the head unit which causes the central electrical component which controls all the sensors to fritz.

Has anyone noticed similar occurrences? I would be inclined to believe that it is the sensors, except they all work after resetting the battery. So there is something else which is triggering it, and I think it's the head unit.

Thanks for reading my rant. Love the car, want to get this figured out, looking for if anyone else has noticed similar "triggers" to cause the dash fireworks display.

Edit:
Battery was tested and is 410cc but testing at 480cc. It IS the original battery. Two different places checked it for free (Mavis and Advance Auto Parts). Both said it's fine.

Also no obd2 codes when scanning.

PS: Sorry mods.

Best,
whatsthatnoise

 

[TheDarkKnight]

It IS the original battery.

Change it.

Countless threads where vintage 2017/2018 and even 2019 batteries are no good.

Just because your original battery has been tested doesnt mean its fine - you likely have several dead cells. Replace it and your slew of warnings will vanish.

 

[whatsthatnoise]

Change it.

Countless threads where vintage 2017/2018 and even 2019 batteries are no good.

Just because your original battery has been tested doesnt mean its fine - you likely have several dead cells. Replace it and your slew of warnings will vanish.

i guess i to tend to overthink things .. well, off to Costco to get a new battery then! thanks

 

[CRV 1.5 2017]

Hello fellow Honda CRV owners,

I purchased a 2018 Honda CRV EX AWD brand new and have around 60k miles on it today.
Coming from a Honda Fit, and before that a Honda Civic, my love for Honda is strong (Hell, even my lawn mower is a Honda).

No issues outside of standard maintenance. Except for all warning lights on the dash. I read over the threads on this forum, hoping, praying that there would be some insight into what is behind this odd occurrence, only to bet read the standard 'to do list' to resolve the issue:

1. Reset the radio in accessory mode
2. Unplug the battery terminals
3. Replace the battery
4. Bring it to the dealership aka light money on fire and pray

The first time it happened, I freaked out. It was a bit over 50k miles and I called the dealership. Indeed they were aware this happens, and they actually recommended unplugging battery terminals, and if it happens again, to replace the battery. I didn't even have to bring the car in!

That didn't work. It stopped it, only for it to come back a long while after.

Then it happened again. I carry a 10mm socket wrench in the glove to quickly resolve the issue and it went away for a long while.

But then it happened again. And within two stars of battery unplug/replug, again .. And then again.

OK. Why? Typically I would drive for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour after a reset as we would be going somewhere. But when it consistently came back on these were short trips, maybe 5 to 10 minutes. Interesting... So I unplug/replug, drive it for 30-1 hour, and it's gone. Great.

But then it happened AGAIN. And again. And again. I know, I'm a broken record. BUT hear me out: I think I'm on to something.

I believe the issue is directly related to the car radio head unit. I find that if I drive the car with LKAS/ACC at a low level, 40-50MPH, that something is going on behind the scenes. As an engineer, I am leaning towards this being bad programming.

My hypothesis is that the combination of short drives after clearing the code, and/or driving the car with LKAS/ACC at low speeds, causes some type of memory leak in the head unit which causes the central electrical component which controls all the sensors to fritz.

Has anyone noticed similar occurrences? I would be inclined to believe that it is the sensors, except they all work after resetting the battery. So there is something else which is triggering it, and I think it's the head unit.

Thanks for reading my rant. Love the car, want to get this figured out, looking for if anyone else has noticed similar "triggers" to cause the dash fireworks display.

Edit:
Battery was tested and is 410cc but testing at 480cc. It IS the original battery. Two different places checked it for free (Mavis and Advance Auto Parts). Both said it's fine.

Also no obd2 codes when scanning.

PS: Sorry mods.

Best,
whatsthatnoise

I have the same problem. My 2017 Honda CR-V 1.5 dash lights come on and go off. I rest them and sometimes whim hours or a few days they are back on. The dealership has also done this twice. They are on again. I’m putting new battery in it tomorrow and pray that takes care of it. It’s very scary because if there is an issue then how do I know what to repair? I will update Friday.

 

[whatsthatnoise]

I have the same problem. My 2017 Honda CR-V 1.5 dash lights come on and go off. I rest them and sometimes whim hours or a few days they are back on. The dealership has also done this twice. They are on again. I’m putting new battery in it tomorrow and pray that takes care of it. It’s very scary because if there is an issue then how do I know what to repair? I will update Friday.

When this happen what is your driving patterns between the retrigger?

Are you doing short trips?
Are you using LKAS/ACC at low speeds?
Other?

I've seen people replace battery and still have the problem, so while I'm hopeful that will resolve it, my confidence level is not that high.

I'm more interested in hearing about the driving patterns and feature sets people are using before it happens to see if there's a common theme which we can then potentially replicate to nail down the cause.

 

[Traylaw]

Hello fellow Honda CRV owners,

I purchased a 2018 Honda CRV EX AWD brand new and have around 60k miles on it today.
Coming from a Honda Fit, and before that a Honda Civic, my love for Honda is strong (Hell, even my lawn mower is a Honda).

No issues outside of standard maintenance. Except for all warning lights on the dash. I read over the threads on this forum, hoping, praying that there would be some insight into what is behind this odd occurrence, only to bet read the standard 'to do list' to resolve the issue:

1. Reset the radio in accessory mode
2. Unplug the battery terminals
3. Replace the battery
4. Bring it to the dealership aka light money on fire and pray

The first time it happened, I freaked out. It was a bit over 50k miles and I called the dealership. Indeed they were aware this happens, and they actually recommended unplugging battery terminals, and if it happens again, to replace the battery. I didn't even have to bring the car in!

That didn't work. It stopped it, only for it to come back a long while after.

Then it happened again. I carry a 10mm socket wrench in the glove to quickly resolve the issue and it went away for a long while.

But then it happened again. And within two stars of battery unplug/replug, again .. And then again.

OK. Why? Typically I would drive for at least 30 minutes to 1 hour after a reset as we would be going somewhere. But when it consistently came back on these were short trips, maybe 5 to 10 minutes. Interesting... So I unplug/replug, drive it for 30-1 hour, and it's gone. Great.

But then it happened AGAIN. And again. And again. I know, I'm a broken record. BUT hear me out: I think I'm on to something.

I believe the issue is directly related to the car radio head unit. I find that if I drive the car with LKAS/ACC at a low level, 40-50MPH, that something is going on behind the scenes. As an engineer, I am leaning towards this being bad programming.

My hypothesis is that the combination of short drives after clearing the code, and/or driving the car with LKAS/ACC at low speeds, causes some type of memory leak in the head unit which causes the central electrical component which controls all the sensors to fritz.

Has anyone noticed similar occurrences? I would be inclined to believe that it is the sensors, except they all work after resetting the battery. So there is something else which is triggering it, and I think it's the head unit.

Thanks for reading my rant. Love the car, want to get this figured out, looking for if anyone else has noticed similar "triggers" to cause the dash fireworks display.

Edit:
Battery was tested and is 410cc but testing at 480cc. It IS the original battery. Two different places checked it for free (Mavis and Advance Auto Parts). Both said it's fine.

Also no obd2 codes when scanning.

PS: Sorry mods.

Best,
whatsthatnoise

Are you getting a check engine light, and of the messages on the dash do you get a little square with the letters CAM next to it.
It won't be the head unit, it is not used for the LKS or ACC. As for no OBD2 codes, if you are using a generic scanner you won't be able to read codes other than some basic engine/emissions codes. In addition error codes for the radar units and camera are not stored. Even the dealer cannot read these codes unless they are occuring. Which is why you need to take it to the dealer when they occur and don't turn off the vehicle to allow the tech to plug in his diagnostic equipment.

 

[williamsji]

Thanks for reading my rant. Love the car, want to get this figured out, looking for if anyone else has noticed similar "triggers" to cause the dash fireworks display.

Edit:
Battery was tested and is 410cc but testing at 480cc. It IS the original battery. Two different places checked it for free (Mavis and Advance Auto Parts). Both said it's fine.

Also no obd2 codes when scanning.

Well, it sounds like just "old battery syndrome" in a modern vehicle with many many sensors and electronic systems. It could be something else, but honestly a new battery is cheap and easy to verify with a new battery, and frankly your CRV is old enough to benefit from a new battery.

This older battery is likely sending you some clues. All such clues from a battery of that age suggest it needs to be replaced now, not later. If you defer, one day it will not be a light show on the instrument panel, it will be you stuck somewhere needing your CRV jump started.

Basically, that battery, is nearing end of life, in my assessment. When they do, they can be quite squirrely at this stage in their life. A 410 CCA battery really should read north of 500 CCA until late in it's life cycle, unless you are testing it in cold weather conditions. I suspect this particular battery has less than 20% of Reserve Charge capacity that it had when new. Also, before testing, it is important to burn off any residual float charge on the battery before testing (30 seconds parked and stopped, but with the headlights on is sufficient for this). Often a battery will test OK after driving, but if you burn off the normal float charge in the battery from having charge energy applied, they will test weak or failing. In other words, when suspecting a weak or dying battery NEVER ever test it right after driving, unless you indeed burn off the float charge.

IF.. if it is something more significant, your CRV still benefits from a new battery [The Costco ones are 500 CCA units too in the same 51R profile]. If the new battery does not settle things down, then you have one or more sensors or systems that are probably causing the issue, and you are unlikely to isolate the cause absent special testing equipment and data so you will need a dealer if this is more than just the battery.

 

[whatsthatnoise]

Well, it sounds like just "old battery syndrome" in a modern vehicle with many many sensors and electronic systems. It could be something else, but honestly a new battery is cheap and easy to verify with a new battery, and frankly your CRV is old enough to benefit from a new battery.

This older battery is likely sending you some clues. All such clues from a battery of that age suggest it needs to be replaced now, not later. If you defer, one day it will not be a light show on the instrument panel, it will be you stuck somewhere needing your CRV jump started.

Basically, that battery, is nearing end of life, in my assessment. When they do, they can be quite squirrely at this stage in their life. A 410 CCA battery really should read north of 500 CCA until late in it's life cycle, unless you are testing it in cold weather conditions. I suspect this particular battery has less than 20% of Reserve Charge capacity that it had when new. Also, before testing, it is important to burn off any residual float charge on the battery before testing (30 seconds parked and stopped, but with the headlights on is sufficient for this). Often a battery will test OK after driving, but if you burn off the normal float charge in the battery from having charge energy applied, they will test weak or failing. In other words, when suspecting a weak or dying battery NEVER ever test it right after driving, unless you indeed burn off the float charge.

IF.. if it is something more significant, your CRV still benefits from a new battery [The Costco ones are 500 CCA units too in the same 51R profile]. If the new battery does not settle things down, then you have one or more sensors or systems that are probably causing the issue, and you are unlikely to isolate the cause absent special testing equipment and data so you will need a dealer if this is more than just the battery.

Given your detailed insight into the operation of a battery and me not having a full understanding. You are probably right. I was under the impression that any number above for 410 was sufficient. But it sounds like that is not the case. The battery is in my trunk now and I will be replacing it short.

I do hope that it is the battery. However, I have been reading people continue to have the problem even after battery replacement. This leads me to believe that there is perhaps some other item at the root cause of the problem. If this was a more isolated incident, then I would not be concerned to take it to the dealer for resolution. However, give it that there are numerous posts across numerous websites along with numerous YouTube videos this leads me to believe it is a wider problem.

 

[williamsji]

.... I have been reading people continue to have the problem even after battery replacement. This leads me to believe that there is perhaps some other item at the root cause of the problem. If this was a more isolated incident, then I would not be concerned to take it to the dealer for resolution. However, give it that there are numerous posts across numerous websites along with numerous YouTube videos this leads me to believe it is a wider problem.

There is no wider problem in the population of gen5 CRVs, at all, per se. I know it is human nature to think so whenever we have a mystery issue with a motor vehicle, but it simply does not pass muster with Honda in general, and gen5 CRVs in particular.

Keep in mind, your CRV has hundreds of different sensors, dozens of different black box electronics systems, and onboard diagnostics that constantly cross check that "all systems are go". Even one tiny anomaly can confuse a sensor and trigger a cascade of alert lights. And it is a fact that with all these systems and sensors, battery voltage stability is more important than say 10 or 20 years ago in a motor vehicle.

THE wider and most common issue for us as owners has in fact been the battery in almost all cases. Yes, there are other things that can cause the alert systems to all trigger, but they are uncommon compared to battery related issues.

Regardless, that battery is way old and needs to be replaced as step one, so no loss in taking that first step.

If that does not fully resolve your issue, then a proper professional diagnosis of the various systems is required, and for that you will need a dealer. I say this because the next most common issue point for your model year would be defective injectors. But you really need the dealer service techs to diagnosis this for sure. Thing is, if the injectors are flaky, it WILL store OBDII codes for misfires due to fuel mixture too rich (but you find no stored codes from your earlier comments)

 

[whatsthatnoise]

Welp. New battery and problem came back. Just like others I read about on this forum.

I'm going to bite the bullet and bring it to Honda dealership for diagnostic.

Depending on what they come back with will determine my next move.

What a shame. I'll dump the car if it turns out to be electrical problems.

 

[williamsji]

Welp. New battery and problem came back. Just like others I read about on this forum.

I'm going to bite the bullet and bring it to Honda dealership for diagnostic.

Depending on what they come back with will determine my next move.

As earlier noted, your battery was old and really needed replacement anyway. Since you still get alert lights, then yes.. you need proper diagnostics from the dealer to find the cause.

As Traylaw noted above, wait for it to happen again, and go immediately to a dealer and show them. Because this could be a radar or camera issue (LKAS, ACC alerts), and once you turn off the vehicle... the issue refreshes and no codes are stored.. so the dealer needs to see the issue happening to help isolate it.

What a shame. I'll dump the car if it turns out to be electrical problems.

Your vehicle, so of course your choice. But I have to say, this really sounds like a "throw the baby out with the bathwater" approach.

Honestly, in modern highly electronically controlled vehicles, if you are going to dump a vehicle any time you have an issue caused by electronics.... you best stop buying new cars and go find a good old solid and non-electronic 57 Chevy or something similar. Something to consider.

 

[whatsthatnoise]

As earlier noted, your battery was old and really needed replacement anyway. Since you still get alert lights, then yes.. you need proper diagnostics from the dealer to find the cause.

As Traylaw noted above, wait for it to happen again, and go immediately to a dealer and show them. Because this could be a radar or camera issue (LKAS, ACC alerts), and once you turn off the vehicle... the issue refreshes and no codes are stored.. so the dealer needs to see the issue happening to help isolate it.



Your vehicle, so of course your choice. But I have to say, this really sounds like a "throw the baby out with the bathwater" approach.

Honestly, in modern highly electronically controlled vehicles, if you are going to dump a vehicle any time you have an issue caused by electronics.... you best stop buying new cars and go find a good old solid and non-electronic 57 Chevy or something similar. Something to consider.

I'm a tech guy. Not going to happen.

But after scheduling for the dealership visit .. well wouldn't you know it everything went off on its own.

I did find a TSB that talks about error codes on the CEL, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0300, P0172 ..and mine had the first three when the CEL was on. The dealership says I need to bring it with the CEL and symptoms happening.

When it happens again, I'll need to immediately bring it in, regardless if I have an appointment. Which they are always booked out days in advance ....

This is a pain. That's why I'd dump the car. There IS a new crv coming out in 2023... or maybe it's time for a Passport ... Who knows. I'm a Honda/Acura guy for life .. there's no doubt about it. But this car is turning into an administrative headache and I can get a pretty penny for it if I did sell.

 

[TheDarkKnight]

@whatsthatnoise - mind your language. I've politely told you before and I wont do so again.

No room for ANY swearing in ANY context on this forum - dont care what your angst is, there is NO need for ANY abusive language. Period. Read the Site Rules. No more warnings.

 

[whatsthatnoise]

@whatsthatnoise - mind your language. I've politely told you before and I wont do so again.

No room for ANY swearing in ANY context on this forum - dont care what your angst is, there is NO need for ANY abusive language. Period. Read the Site Rules. No more warnings.

I know I know sorry dude. I don't mean any malice I promise. My father was in the navy and I grew up in a rough neighborhood. I had an interesting childhood.

Please accept my apologies.

I'll update again if the saga continues... But hopefully you guys are right and it is just the battery.

 

[williamsji]

I did find a TSB that talks about error codes on the CEL, P0301, P0302, P0303, P0300, P0172 ..and mine had the first three when the CEL was on. The dealership says I need to bring it with the CEL and symptoms happening.

^^ Well.. look, we have new information... and it is relevant to discussion.

The dealer is correct, they need to see it in full malfunction, or with error codes stored that are not cleared by an engine restart. Reason: you want them focused on the actual cause of failure, not speculative cause based on owner reported symptoms.

The good news is the codes discussed in that TSB WILL present again.

The bad news is that those codes, once the dealer gets a chance to troubleshoot and confirm, will very likely result in a determination of "bad fuel injectors" and they will need to be replaced, along with their rail. So, I encourage you to inform yourself with this thread and it's predecessors. If they suggest spark plugs first, they are wasting your time and money in my view, just based on long running discussion and comparing notes amongst members here on the issue.

 

[whatsthatnoise]

If I understand correctly though my car would be under warranty for all of the repair work in said TSB. No? I haven't had it six years and they set the extra year with unlimited mileage for coverage. Unless I'm interpreting things wrong.

 

[Traylaw]

If I understand correctly though my car would be under warranty for all of the repair work in said TSB. No? I haven't had it six years and they set the extra year with unlimited mileage for coverage. Unless I'm interpreting things wrong.

The TSB is for an issue for oil dilution causing a misfire. Where they would replace the sparkplugs, software update, and inspect the camshaft and repair any mechanical damage caused by dilution. There are many possible causes for your cylinder misfire codes. Anything from electronic ignition problems, sparkplugs, loose wires, improper fuel/air mixture due to sensors, fuel pump or injectors issues.....you name it. All of which are not covered under the extension of warranty Honda provided.