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A/C compressor clutch wouldn't engage, after paying Honda Techinfo.honda.com for a day subscription I followed their a/c troubleshooting .
I was very disappointed when I found what the problem was: A broken wire close to the a/c pressure switch plug. The pressure sensor is connected with three little wires (around #25 AWG), one of them was broken and another one was missing part of the insulation. It looks that it was damage at the Honda factory.
My a/c is working now, but I took a long trip without it...Not very impress with Honda.
 

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We had our 2017 EX-L in to the dealer last week for the exact same issue. They found the same problem with those wires as yours. With 46,000 miles I was worried they would charge me but since I just had the (fix) software updates done last month they decided not to. I originally believed there a/c update was the culprit.
 

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We had our 2017 EX-L in to the dealer last week for the exact same issue. They found the same problem with those wires as yours. With 46,000 miles I was worried they would charge me but since I just had the (fix) software updates done last month they decided not to. I originally believed there a/c update was the culprit.
I had the same issue about a year ago! Are anyone effected by this live in Texas, too?
 

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25AWG that must be a new wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
25AWG that must be a new wire.
I am not sure if the wires are exactly 25 AWG (Yes that is an American Wire Gauge =0.0179 in Diameter). To removed the insulation I used the 25 AWG setting in my electrical stripper and that is why I called it 25 AWG wire, being an Electrician for so long I know at least that much.
 

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I have a 2017 CRV with the same issue. The cold air started to cut out intermittently. Then the compressor would kick in when I was stopped or driving slowly and cut off when I increased speed and got to a point where there was no cold air at all. I was pretty sure there wasn't a leak in the system. I saw this post here and another on carcomplaints.com describing the exact same behavior. When I took it to the McKinney, TX dealership I told them my internet findings and they still wanted to flush, recharge freon before they did anything else and charge me around $200-$300 just to get started. I declined.

I took it to an auto A/C specialist and he confirmed what I read online. The wiring to the compressor switch plug was frayed and not able to send the needed voltage to activate the compressor. He said it is a flawed design because the wiring is so tight that normal movement due to engine/road vibration wears out the wiring and they break. The fix was to solder and extend the wiring. Took him 2 hours.

Apparently, this faulty connection part has not come up on Honda's radar yet. The guy I mentioned above said the dealership that fixed his car saw the same thing on 6 other CRVs. I am not sure how to do it, but I am going to submit this info to Honda so hopefully they can get this part recalled.
 

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Apparently, this faulty connection part has not come up on Honda's radar yet. The guy I mentioned above said the dealership that fixed his car saw the same thing on 6 other CRVs. I am not sure how to do it, but I am going to submit this info to Honda so hopefully they can get this part recalled.
The outcome of this would be a TSB, not a recall, as inoperative A/C is not a safety issue.
 

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It's a Technical Service Bulletin; a semi-private document issued by the manufacturer detailing common problems and their solution. Sometimes they also include special warranty programs, but usually not.
 

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Not sure what appears “tight” with the wiring. Does not appear to be “tight” in that pic above. In fact, there is a loop in the wiring harness to provide slack. The last thing you want to happen is the wires coming into contact with the elec rad fan blade. Those wires and the fan blade are in very close proximity.

135595
 
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THANK YOU FOR THE INFORMATION: That is exactly what was wrong with my 2018 CRV. The blue wire was boke off at the connector. Great detail provided above.
 

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The root cause issue here is most likely that there was either damage to the wire when the insulation was stripped OR an overly crimped wire/pin in the wiring assembly. So there was probably multiples of the issue on the assembly line, since an improperly crimped wire/pin or wire stripping is a setup or process originated issue and we know they run mass production lots of things like this. OR.. the wiring assembly was manhandled when installed in the vehicle during assembly.

The core issue being that it is fairly difficult to detect these kinds of defects by inspection.. so you do not notice them until they actually fail.

Wiring harnesses and assemblies are a modern era weak point in many electro/mechanical connections in mass produced products. And then we have the whole other issue of the wire insulation now days being made out of a soy product derivative.. making them apparently interesting snacks for rodents.
 

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Not sure what appears “tight” with the wiring. Does not appear to be “tight” in that pic above. In fact, there is a loop in the wiring harness to provide slack. The last thing you want to happen is the wires coming into contact with the elec rad fan blade. Those wires and the fan blade are in very close proximity.

View attachment 135595
They are breaking at the connector. The light guage wire pulled at 90 degrees from the base of the connector sets up a stress point in the wire. Now all you need is vibration and it will fail. I see it all the time in equipment with high vibration. A small change in the wire routing can totally eliminate the issue.
 

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