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Nothing special about unplugging and reseating the connectors. Just disconnect the negative cable on the battery first. The other items programmed into the BCM are the ident codes for your FOBs so it will recognize them and the PCM is programmed to recognize the identity of the BCM. It's all part of the immobilizer scheme.
Do you know where I can find the procedure to access the BCM and then reseat the connectors? I really don't want to go back to my dealership for this. I already paid them $250 in labor before just for them to tell me the BCM is bad.
 

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Do you know where I can find the procedure to access the BCM and then reseat the connectors? I really don't want to go back to my dealership for this. I already paid them $250 in labor before just for them to tell me the BCM is bad.
My BCM is located under the dash on the left side of the car. From memory it’s about 4” wide 8” long and 1” thick. Has wire connectors all the way around that unplug. Easy to do

My BCM is located under the dash on the left side of the car. From memory it’s about 4” wide 8” long and 1” thick. Has wire connectors all the way around that unplug. Easy to do
This is what mine looks like
 

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My BCM is located under the dash on the left side of the car. From memory it’s about 4” wide 8” long and 1” thick. Has wire connectors all the way around that unplug. Easy to do
Do I need to unscrew or remove panels of any kind to access it? When you say left side, I am assuming right behind/under the steering wheel (given you're in the US 🇺🇸)?

And did the connectors come out and go back in easily, or is there like a clip that secures the connector that needs to pressed to unhook it?
 

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Do I need to unscrew or remove panels of any kind to access it? When you say left side, I am assuming right behind/under the steering wheel (given you're in the US 🇺🇸)?

And did the connectors come out and go back in easily, or is there like a clip that secures the connector that needs to pressed to unhook it?
Mine is a 2017 CRV and it’s under the steering wheel above the brake pedal. Don’t remember needing any tools to access it but it’s been 5+ months since I looked at it and still waiting for a new one
 

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Mine is a 2017 CRV and it’s under the steering wheel above the brake pedal. Don’t remember needing any tools to access it but it’s been 5+ months since I looked at it and still waiting for a new one
I assume since that's 5th GEN mine will be there too. At this point I'm really hoping it's a loose connector. Sometimes when I have my car turned off and vigorously shake it while sitting in the drivers seat, the car turns on. Will attempt reseating and report back.
 

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I assume since that's 5th GEN mine will be there too. At this point I'm really hoping it's a loose connector. Sometimes when I have my car turned off and vigorously shake it while sitting in the drivers seat, the car turns on. Will attempt reseating and report back.
Mine did the same thing and it was in and out numerous times so I’m not to optimistic that that will be a fix but wish you luck. When I power my car up usually every warning light possible comes on but sometimes it seems normal. One thing I discovered today is unless it’s a separate issue my right headlight low beam will not come on. Thought it was a bad bulb but it isn’t. Does your right headlight work?
 

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Mine did the same thing and it was in and out numerous times so I’m not to optimistic that that will be a fix but wish you luck. When I power my car up usually every warning light possible comes on but sometimes it seems normal. One thing I discovered today is unless it’s a separate issue my right headlight low beam will not come on. Thought it was a bad bulb but it isn’t. Does your right headlight work?
My issue started a few days after my car was in a collision with a pole of all things. So I'm wondering if that collision made the BCM go bad or if the connectors broke or became loose.

Fortunately both my headlights are still working. But for me I've had this issue for just under 3 months. I wonder because you've been experiencing it longer maybe something shorted out? Does the BCM control the headlights too? Also all the warning lights show up as well for me anytime I disconnect the battery (which is several times a day). I think that's just a default mechanism that resets the memory.
 

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My issue started a few days after my car was in a collision with a pole of all things. So I'm wondering if that collision made the BCM go bad or if the connectors broke or became loose.

Fortunately both my headlights are still working. But for me I've had this issue for just under 3 months. I wonder because you've been experiencing it longer maybe something shorted out? Does the BCM control the headlights too? Also all the warning lights show up as well for me anytime I disconnect the battery (which is several times a day). I think that's just a default mechanism that resets the memory.
The BCM is the main controller module that switches on off many electrical circuits in the vehicle such as headlights/ windows/ immobilizer/ sunroof/ door locks etc.A faulty BCM might cause issues in the control of these circuits.

The warning lights after battery reconnection is normal as the sensors power up and initialize.
 

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The BCM is main controller module that switches on off many electrical circuits in the vehicle such as headlights/ windows/ immobilizer/ sunroof/ door locks etc.A faulty BCM might cause issues in the control of these circuits.

The warning lights after battery reconnection is normal as the sensors power up and initialize.
My warning lights do not come on every time I power it up. I power it down every time I turn it off but sometimes, I might have a day or two without any warning lights.
 

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My warning lights do not come on every time I power it up. I power it down every time I turn it off but sometimes, I might have a day or two without any warning lights.
I would imagine that alert lights coming on is more about the battery in a discharged state (due to BCM failing to power everything down), not something directly associated with the BCM itself.
 

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I would imagine that alert lights coming on is more about the battery in a discharged state (due to BCM failing to power everything down), not something directly associated with the BCM itself.
I disagree, my battery is new, and I totally disconnect power every time I turn the engine off. I have been dealing with this for over 5 months with a new BCM on order from Honda
 

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I disagree, my battery is new, and I totally disconnect power every time I turn the engine off. I have been dealing with this for over 5 months with a new BCM on order from Honda
It is your disconnecting the battery that in your case is triggering all the alert lights when you reconnect.

Bottom line... any loss of normal voltage to the vehicle is going to trigger a lot of alert lights when power is restored and the vehicle is started. This could be due to disconnecting the battery, or it could be due to the battery being depleted, or it could even be a failing battery. It is a side effect of the addressing a bad BCM, not a BCM effect itself.
 

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I have stopped disconnecting the battery when the car engine is not running but instead open the circuit on the backup fuse with a switch in the driver's compartment as per my description in a previous post. Sometimes I get warning lights when I start the car and sometimes not. Sometimes the warning lights come on later after starting and while driving.
 

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Just got an update from Honda. This part has been delayed again and the estimate is early August now. Does anyone know if I am liable for this issue given my car is a lease? When I return this car and if it still has the issue will they hold me liable since this is a chip manufacturer defect?
 

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Cant see how you would be liable when you hand it back - thats on the lease company to rectify as they will be the legal owner.

(Least thats how it is in the UK).
 

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Hello asnigro,
Hoping you get this message, I’m in the same boat you were with your 2017 CRV Touring BCM. I found a salvage one, hoping the dealer can rewrite it next week Monday. What dealer did yours? Or what city are they in? I would like to call them if my dealer has trouble.
Thanks,
Dan
Russ Darrow Honda in Milwaukee, WI reprogrammed my part. I was working with Dylan in parts and Kyle the tech that I believe did the work.
 

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here is a copy of my original post that i guess admin feels is a dead horse & locked so i joined this one as someone put a reply with this thread.

"hello form South Florida, 2017 CRV owner just paid it off & major computer issues going on. started a month or so ago. was home on a hot afternoon & heard the factory alarm going off, went outside key fob would not turn it off or get me in the car. had to use the metal key inside it to get in, started the car & everything was ok. changed key fob & battery to see if there is a malfunction. a week later on a very rainy day same thing. happened 4 times in a row & had to disconnect the battery till i could get it to the dealership. took it & turns out they said its the push start & body control module & of course everything is on backorder with no notes on when they will be in as there is a chip shortage. paid the 200 bucks for the diagnostic & took the car home & started disconnecting the battery when i had to lock the doors. when i lock the doors without disconnecting the battery the alarm goes off, disables the key fob & there dash lights are all on with an error cannot see key fob. lets say i walk away from the car & put the fob down then close the doors & leave it unlocked i come back , no alarm but after a while dash lights are on looking for the fob with an error cannot see key fob. although on both situations the car will still start & reset the issue till it happens again.....so last few weeks i took a chance & just left the fob under my floor mat for over a week & never locked it & for the last week i started keeping the fob with me & the problem stopped. its almost like either that reset everything or the defective parts just took a rest for a while... so far so good....anyone ever deal with this? very odd.... "


so what our saying is going under my dash & unplugging all the connectors off my BCM & plugging it back in is a possible fix? why wouldn't the dealership do this? has this actually worked for anyone? right now im in the clear & waiting on parts as everything is on backorder so i wont do anything unless it hapens again. just wondering if leaving the key fob in the car for a few weeks possibly reset everything?
 

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here is a copy of my original post that i guess admin feels is a dead horse & locked
Er no - we consolidate threads where there is a need/multiple duplicated topics. This is one of them. Suggest you use the search feature properly next time please. Thanks.
 
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here is a copy of my original post that i guess admin feels is a dead horse & locked so i joined this one as someone put a reply with this thread.

"hello form South Florida, 2017 CRV owner just paid it off & major computer issues going on. started a month or so ago. was home on a hot afternoon & heard the factory alarm going off, went outside key fob would not turn it off or get me in the car. had to use the metal key inside it to get in, started the car & everything was ok. changed key fob & battery to see if there is a malfunction. a week later on a very rainy day same thing. happened 4 times in a row & had to disconnect the battery till i could get it to the dealership. took it & turns out they said its the push start & body control module & of course everything is on backorder with no notes on when they will be in as there is a chip shortage. paid the 200 bucks for the diagnostic & took the car home & started disconnecting the battery when i had to lock the doors. when i lock the doors without disconnecting the battery the alarm goes off, disables the key fob & there dash lights are all on with an error cannot see key fob. lets say i walk away from the car & put the fob down then close the doors & leave it unlocked i come back , no alarm but after a while dash lights are on looking for the fob with an error cannot see key fob. although on both situations the car will still start & reset the issue till it happens again.....so last few weeks i took a chance & just left the fob under my floor mat for over a week & never locked it & for the last week i started keeping the fob with me & the problem stopped. its almost like either that reset everything or the defective parts just took a rest for a while... so far so good....anyone ever deal with this? very odd.... "


so what our saying is going under my dash & unplugging all the connectors off my BCM & plugging it back in is a possible fix? why wouldn't the dealership do this? has this actually worked for anyone? right now im in the clear & waiting on parts as everything is on backorder so i wont do anything unless it hapens again. just wondering if leaving the key fob in the car for a few weeks possibly reset everything?
So, if I understand you correctly -- you put your fob under the floor mat for a week and then placed the fob on your person (probably in your pocket) for a few weeks and that seems to have corrected the problem ? Perhaps you are on to something. Maybe a few more people who are having BCM issues will try what you did and we shall see if indeed this is working. Will look forward to see some responses -- be they positive or negative.
 

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So, if I understand you correctly -- you put your fob under the floor mat for a week and then placed the fob on your person (probably in your pocket) for a few weeks and that seems to have corrected the problem ? Perhaps you are on to something. Maybe a few more people who are having BCM issues will try what you did and we shall see if indeed this is working. Will look forward to see some responses -- be they positive or negative.
I doubt this very much.

As they say, observation is not causation. The BCM interacts with a range of things in the vehicle, and a malfunctioning BCM means no observation of symptoms can be used to conclude cause.

Could simply be the vehicle recognizes the fob is inside the vehicle, which in turn prohibits some features from working (like locking the vehicle doors). A fob inside the vehicle results in the BCM behaving differently than a fob outside the vehicle. But broken is broken, even if you can find some conditional work around you "think" prevents the issue.

We have to be mindful with problems like this that are being discussed by a range of affected owners. They very often result in suggestions of unverifiable work arounds, as well as inaccurate beliefs and comments.. and even sometimes superstition enters the conversation. A read through on the now solved and discussion closed topic from early in gen5 production about abnormal oil rise, demonstrates this well. If you read that thread from front to back (tedious but informative) you will find many ideas, suggestions, prophecies, and claims that were in fact completely wrong, making actual verifiable facts in the discussion hard to glean for the casual forum member.

No harm in trying though.
 
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