[jjminch]

Pretty much as the title says. Bought a $500 2001 AWD auto. It idles well and a dry compression test got me 170-190 PSI in all of them.

Is it risky to try and attempt a valve adjustment and timing belt replacement if it’s this far along? Kind of like a Overdue Trans flush and then it starts slipping.

 

[ThisGuysCrv]

If its still running strong park it until you can do you do your timing belt and water pump. Do NOT drive it you are on BORROWED time!!!! Do the valve adjust when you do the timing belt.

 

[Lochinvar]

There's no risk from installing a new belt for adjusting the valves. The risk is completely from leaving things alone. If the belt breaks, the engine will damage itself badly and immediately. If the exhaust valves become too tight, the engine will also be damaged badly. Setting the valves back to spec will never hurt things. putting a fresh belt in will never hurt things.

If your engine is actually still running well at that many miles with no major maintenance done, you are extremely lucky.

When you do the timing belt, you will also need to replace all the accessory belts and the coolant pump and the timing belt tensioner at the same time. If the left side lower engine mount is worn out or broken, during a timing belt service is a good time to fix it because that mount has to be removed to get the air conditioner belt off and back on.

 

[Avisitor]

$500 dollars is a pretty good deal for any car that runs and drives well.
Of course, there will be maintenance issues.
But, I hope you spoke with the seller
And got as much information as possible about the state of the vehicle??

Just remember don't panic and take things one step at a time.

 

[jjminch]

$500 dollars is a pretty good deal for any car that runs and drives well.
Of course, there will be maintenance issues.
But, I hope you spoke with the seller
And got as much information as possible about the state of the vehicle??

Just remember don't panic and take things one step at a time.

Yea spoke with seller. They did a lot of other maintenance items like a new starter, cap, wires, front pads, tires, etc.

Rear drum piston Is broken and leaking fluid so it has no brakes at the moment. That along with Significant rear fender rust made the price what it is.

Appreciate all the replies. Will get the brakes sorted out then go back to the engine.

 

[Avisitor]

Rear drum piston Is broken and leaking fluid so it has no brakes at the moment. That along with Significant rear fender rust made the price what it is.

Rear drum piston? Do you mean the wheel cylinder?
If you need to remove the brake line then be careful
Many times the nut or fitting will not come loose
and will tend to twist the brake line along with the nut
Heat sometimes help? Good luck and enjoy your new ride!!

 

[jjminch]

Yes I used the wrong term. This is what I found when I opened it up. Half gutted and a mess.
I’m also worried about damaging or seized lines. Any idea on a source for new ones?

 

[agentl074]

The belt is way overdue... timing belts are significantly less durable than timing chains and can -- and do -- break. I would do the belt and adjustment as soon as you can. It also won't hurt anything doing a drain and refill of fluids -- it can only help.

 

[ImBroke]

If you don't open it up, soon you won't have to.

 

[crashcramer]

Agree with a lot of stuff here, as a fellow procrastinator, get all the parts in line and dive into that big but important job, it will certainly blow up before the rust eats he rest of the car, wow, JUST WOW on the drum internals, that’s missing just a couple things, Rockauto let’s you pick and choose what brand parts you want and they sell a timing belt kit with a ton of Asian and OEM replacement bits for the job, I did mine over a year ago, before covid and before driving something else for a while, btw $500 is just under what the salvage yard is willing to pay me to DRIVE mine into them for cash. Good buy and keep up with what you can and you’ve made a smart buy as it’ll keep going for a while when you adhere to the maintenance schedule. Honda fluids for power steering only is something I’ve stuck to, all else, high quality fluids for antifreeze, oil, brake fluid, not the dollar store junk. It

 

[jjminch]

Thanks all for the replies.

I decided to tackle the valve lash today. Had some time and never done it before. Pretty easy job, all on the exhaust side were tight and out of range. Intake side was all in spec.

I’ll do the timing belt once brakes are done and it’s road worthy.

 

[ThisGuysCrv]

If its not to late ,alway adjust the exhausts to the maximum spec. I do intakes in the middle of the spec range. Imo

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[jjminch]

Thought I'd come in and do an update of sorts.

Rear brake is just a mess, as if the pics didn't make that clear. After waiting for drum parts to arrive, I'm needing more than I ordered, and having difficulty removing old components. All fasteners are rusted and rounded off, and the lines broke off.

I think I'm going to return the drum rebuild kit and do the caliper swap, labor wise it might be easier at this point to cut off drum and start fresh. The how-to posted in here was very clear, only downside is the parts cost is higher than I planned.

Will be placing a Rock Auto order, and will add a Timing Belt kit as well. Besides new belts, anything else I should put on order?

 

[crashcramer]

Thought I'd come in and do an update of sorts.

Rear brake is just a mess, as if the pics didn't make that clear. After waiting for drum parts to arrive, I'm needing more than I ordered, and having difficulty removing old components. All fasteners are rusted and rounded off, and the lines broke off.

It sure sounds unfortunate, guess if you’ve read the conversion over and found the caliper mounts and such, the labor would be close to the same. As far as parts to order from RA, well I try to add consumables to every order, like cabin air filter, wiper blade for the rear especially and stuff like that I guess.

 

[keefnheavs]

Thought I'd come in and do an update of sorts.

Rear brake is just a mess, as if the pics didn't make that clear. After waiting for drum parts to arrive, I'm needing more than I ordered, and having difficulty removing old components. All fasteners are rusted and rounded off, and the lines broke off.

I think I'm going to return the drum rebuild kit and do the caliper swap, labor wise it might be easier at this point to cut off drum and start fresh. The how-to posted in here was very clear, only downside is the parts cost is higher than I planned.

Will be placing a Rock Auto order, and will add a Timing Belt kit as well. Besides new belts, anything else I should put on order?

Just done timing belt for second time on daughters 2000. First time at 166,000 miles, this time at 305,000 miles. If you are doing a "full" job, best to replace water pump, crankshaft and camshaft oil seals, timing belt tensioner pulley and spring, all other drive belts, possibly a/c tensioner pulley (they get dry), possibly engine torque mount. If you are really keen the crankshaft position sensor. If it fails, you have to basically do a timing belt job just to get to it. Trust you have air tools and/or a crankshaft pulley holder and long cheater bar. The crankshaft pulley bolt can be a real challenge to remove. Good luck sir.

 

[jjminch]

Just done timing belt for second time on daughters 2000. First time at 166,000 miles, this time at 305,000 miles. If you are doing a "full" job, best to replace water pump, crankshaft and camshaft oil seals, timing belt tensioner pulley and spring, all other drive belts, possibly a/c tensioner pulley (they get dry), possibly engine torque mount. If you are really keen the crankshaft position sensor. If it fails, you have to basically do a timing belt job just to get to it. Trust you have air tools and/or a crankshaft pulley holder and long cheater bar. The crankshaft pulley bolt can be a real challenge to remove. Good luck sir.

Thanks. Have everything toolwise but crankshaft pully holder. There are a lot of pulley tools, is this the type I need?

Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set

Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set

www.harborfreight.com

 

[ThisGuysCrv]

The crank pulley is not pressed on it should just slide off. You won't need that tool. Sometimes they stick a little, but its ok. Just spray in some penitrating oil and work it in by rocking the pulley a little at a time.

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[ImBroke]

Do you mean this to hold the pulley while taking out the crank bolt? https://www.amazon.com/MOSTPLUS-Damper-Crankshaft-Removal-Harmonic/dp/B07C1YT2GP/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2JE96V9GO6WFE&dchild=1&keywords=honda+crank+pulley+holder&qid=1610549572&sprefix=honda+crank+pull,aps,264&sr=8-4

 

[ThisGuysCrv]

Do you mean this to hold the pulley while taking out the crank bolt? https://www.amazon.com/MOSTPLUS-Damper-Crankshaft-Removal-Harmonic/dp/B07C1YT2GP/ref=sr_1_4?crid=2JE96V9GO6WFE&dchild=1&keywords=honda+crank+pulley+holder&qid=1610549572&sprefix=honda+crank+pull,aps,264&sr=8-4

Yeah that is the tool you will need to get the bolt off. After its off the pulley will slide off.

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[Lochinvar]

Thanks. Have everything toolwise but crankshaft pully holder. There are a lot of pulley tools, is this the type I need?

Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set

Bolt-Type Wheel Puller Set

www.harborfreight.com

AutoZone loaner tool OEM-27279. Pay for the tool when you pick it up, return for a refund. All of AutoZone's loaner tools work that way. You have either one or three months to return a loaner tool. I don't recall which, so you would need to ask when you get one.