Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 5 of 5 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
730 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi Guys, after 200,000 miles on our 2004 CR-V, it was past due for a valve adjustment. I had not even changed the spark plugs, so it was time to do a little work.

I read through some posts and watched a few youtube videos to see if there was anything unique about the CR-V versus my S2000, which I've done a valve adjustment three time on that engine, about every 30,000 miles. Given the F20C revs to 9000 RPM, I like to make sure the valve clearances are well within spec.

I expected to spend about 2 hours or so doing the work, however, I ran into a few minor annoyances causing the work to take more than 3 hours. I don't work fast either, I'd never be a very good professional mechanic. Here are some tips if you are going to do the work yourself as some of us on the board like to do our own basic maintenance.

1) The crankcase breather vent hose was very difficult to disconnect from the valve cover, so I ended up disconnecting the hose from the air box instead.

2) The strut tower brace was in the way from lifting the valve cover away from the head, so I need to remove the bolts holding the brace to the firewall and shock towers. None of the youtube videos showed this problem, looks like the brace is slightly different on the 2004 CR-V versus other years or the Honda Element.

3) There was quite a bit of dirt/sand that had piled up in front of the valve cover, I ended getting out my shop vac and sucking up the dirt to be sure none of it fell inside the engine.

4) While the process of adjusting the valve clearance is the same on both the CR-V and my S2000, the CR-V was more difficult due to the exhaust valve being more difficult to see compared to my S2000. The difference being the orientation of the engine. I needed a lot more light to see what I was doing on the back side of the engine. Also, the spark plug wire harness was really annoying while I was adjusting the valves on the #1 cylinder, just seemingly in the way, but less so on the other cylinders.

5) Re-assembling everything was straight forward, just worked methodically and made sure everything was tight. I also put in the new NGK plugs while I was at it. I had thought re-assembling the valve cover back on would have been more difficult, but it seemed to find home fairly easily as long as I made sure everything got out the way.

6) In general the exhaust valve clearance was on the low (tight) side, and the intake valves were on the high (loose) side. I adjusted 14 of 16 of the valves, only two on the intake side of the #4 cylinder seemed to still be in spec. However, I didn't find any valves that were out by more than 1-2 thousandths. I probably could have let it go another 50,000 miles without any real problems. The camshafts appeared to have normal wear for a 200,000 mile engine.

7) I didn't bother replacing the valve cover gasket as it appeared in good condition, hopefully I won't get any oil leaks.

After finishing the job, I started the engine and noticed it was quieter at idle, definitely less valve chatter. Before the valve adjustment, I was getting quite a bit of valve chatter until the engine warmed up. Now, it just sounds like a Honda sewing machine even on a cold morning :cool:.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Thanks for this. Just got my 2004 CRV and it seems chattery in the mornings.

I am working my way through a list of jobs but then its onto the clearances and this will help no end. I have a DC5r so it all looks very familiar but those notes are ace thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Hi S2k_Dude,

Thanks for sharing your experience. Can you help with a Forum Link or URL back to the full valve adjustment procedure?
 
1 - 5 of 5 Posts
Top