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2012 CR-V EX
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Discussion Starter #1
I have done some reading into this before I posted and read that there is some kind of power limiter to the rear door speakers. When I put the fader all the way to rear, the sound is almost non existent. I have also read that the rear speakers are just there for rear fill. Outside of replacing the head unit or adding an amplifier, are there any mods or hacks that are known to restore full power to the rear speakers? If not, then what would be the most cost effective way to get the power balanced out so that there is equal volume from front and rear speakers?

I have the factory 6 speaker system and factory head unit. I have replaced the rear speakers with 3 way aftermarket ones and have replaced my factory front door tweeters. The aftermarket tweeters made a huge difference and I would like to replace the woofers in the front door to get some better bass. When most people replace the front door woofers, do they install coaxial 2 or 3 way speakers, leaving the factory tweeters in place, or do they replace the front woofers and tweeters with component woofers and tweeters? Also, how are the front door woofers and tweeters wired? Are they wired in with a crossover box that has an input and then outputs for the woofers and tweeters like aftermarket component speakers are or some other way?
 

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Welcome to the forum! Please tell us what year model and trim level you have. In fact, while you are at it, do this: Go to your Account Settings/Signature and put in your location, vehicle specs, etc., and save. Then, it will appear at the bottom of each of your posts from now on, like mine does below. This will be very helpful to you and us, as it helps prevent the need to ask obvious questions over and over. Thanks.

I am planning a similar audio upgrade soon on my V. My thinking is to use good speakers and put some power behind them. 6.5" mids in the front, separate tweeters with crossovers (mine go in the dash), then just 6.5" full range speakers in the back, all wired through a modest amp (say 75 watts per), and a small powered sub in the back. Won't know how it's wired till I jump in, though. Keep us posted on what you do. There are some nice installs here.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey thanks. Your plan sounds good. It seems that there is no way around the factory rear speaker limitation but to install an amp. I plan to install a mini amp - like 20-25w RMS. It will power my factory front door woofers with aftermarket replacement tweeters and my aftermarket 3 way rear door speakers.

Regarding the mini amps, I have learned of people installing them behind the radio or glovebox. Then they get power and ground from the factory wiring. This is not really possible or a good idea however, as none of the amps are fused for 10A like the Honda radio is. You can only do this if your amp matches your radio fuse rating. I plan on getting aftermarket wiring harnesses. One male of which will plug into the factory radio and the other female which will plug into the male that once went to the radio.

I will make my own wiring harness on a bench with those two and the harness from the amp. The mini amp will have speaker level inputs and nothing will be changed with the speaker wiring in the doors. Power and ground will come from the engine bay. Just need to find the ideal route from the cabin-side of the firewall.

I will take pictures and post them here to document the install. I'd like it to be a guide that people can even use to just add a mini amp to to power the factory speakers - although I highly recommend replacing the factory tweeters as an upgrade. Easy and cheap to do.
 

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Not familiar with a "mini-amp." I plan to go with 50-75 watts per channel, IMO anything less is not worth doing. It will take that to feed good speakers. Good idea on the install thread, I'll do one too.
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
Ok, so I had been gathering my components and did my mini amp install. I went with a Kenwood KAC-M1804 (45x4 RMS watts) and a PAC 4 channel line-out converter with adjustable gains.

First I bought male and female aftermarket wiring harnesses that plug into both the vehicle wiring and the factory radio. I took the wiring harnesses from the amp and the LOC and integrated them into those harnesses with some extensions for length. Now with my bench made harness, the speaker wiring from the male harness that goes into the radio goes into the LOC and the amplified sound feeds into the factory speaker wiring into the female harness. The 'bridge' between the two is the the power, remote on, ground and illumination from the female harness to the male harness. The entire thing could be removed and the vehicle connector plugged right back into the factory radio like it once was. It is pictured here with the amp and LOC.

100890596_655272608366706_4527155667563184128_n.png


I took the radio out and figured out how long all of the wiring need to be and there are some extensions in the wiring. The important connections are soldered, the speaker wiring was done with butt connectors. The amplifier is mounted above the glove box and the LOC is mounted on a bracket to the right of the radio.

After I mapped out how I was going to route my harness, I went ahead and ran the power wire through the firewall where there was already factory wiring coming through. I had gotten a 12 gauge amplifier wiring kit to run the power to the battery with a fuse (same rating as the amp -15A) and ground to a ground junction that is right behind and below the radio.
100890596_181245043248984_243681180061270016_n.jpg
100983507_562268927821473_7271711001739788288_n.jpg


The ground wire was done with the final install of everything. I used solder-seal connectors that you just heat and the solder melts wires together and seals the heat shrink over it all for the power and ground.
100997482_278238103563807_4214832470501097472_n.jpg
101545583_713700532713398_6897273429297201152_n.jpg


Here is the wiring harness going into the dash. The power, remote on, and ground for the LOC are integrated into the harness. The speaker wire input from the radio goes into the LOC from the male harness that goes to the radio. The LOC feeds the sound to the amp through the RCA cables built into the amp and the amp feeds the sound into the female wiring harness and into the factory speaker wiring. I put wiring loom over the wiring and taped it all together. I have seen people use something called Tesa tape for this as well. I would use Tesa tape next time, as it would be much more flexible and allow the wiring to fit into tight spaces better. I had already replaced the rear speakers with some Power Acoustic 6.5's and I already installed Power Acoustik tweeters up front to replace the factory ones.
101437828_248532013075965_5806910210710700032_n.jpg


Here is the amp and LOC mounted in their locations. I zip tied the LOC to the bracket and I used 3M Dual Lock to mount the amp to the short surface just above and to the left of the piece that the glove box latches onto to close. This was tricky! There is a lot of space in the void above the glove box, but really no places to mount anything. You also have to consider that space is needed in case the passenger airbag has to deploy in a collision. Mounting in the glove box will not work, there cannot be any wires or anything to the sides of or behind the glove box or it won't close.
101753945_1606228769537724_3841950466493644800_n.jpg


All in all, the amp kicks ass and the sound system is like it should have been from the factory! I have the gain turned all the way up for the rear speakers, and, they are still not as loud as the front :( I have the gain turned about 75% for the front speakers. I went from listening to music on level 20 or 22 to listening to the same music on level 15 or 17 and shaking the rear view mirror. I plan on replacing the factory front door speakers and the Power Acoustik tweeters with a component set in the future.

Takeaways:

I would say that bare minimum, a similar amp should be installed and replace the factory tweeters for sure, those make the biggest difference in sound. If the door speakers are going to be replaced, get ones with a high db sensitivity -- 91 and up to take full advantage of the power.

There is really no space to install a larger amplifier under the front seats, in my point of view anyway. I think that the mini amps like this Kenwood, the mini Alpine, etc are solid choices for the CR-V but mounting locations are the real challenge.

I would have, and will in the future, use the solder seal connectors for all of the connections in the wiring harness. Not because there is any issue, just because they are superior to crimp connectors. Also, I would have staggered all of the connections so that there were not all done in the same places to reduce the need for such large wiring loom.
 

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Ok, so I had been gathering my components and did my mini amp install. I went with a Kenwood KAC-M1804 (45x4 RMS watts) and a PAC 4 channel line-out converter with adjustable gains.

First I bought male and female aftermarket wiring harnesses that plug into both the vehicle wiring and the factory radio. I took the wiring harnesses from the amp and the LOC and integrated them into those harnesses with some extensions for length. Now with my bench made harness, the speaker wiring from the male harness that goes into the radio goes into the LOC and the amplified sound feeds into the factory speaker wiring into the female harness. The 'bridge' between the two is the the power, remote on, ground and illumination from the female harness to the male harness. The entire thing could be removed and the vehicle connector plugged right back into the factory radio like it once was. It is pictured here with the amp and LOC.

View attachment 139254

I took the radio out and figured out how long all of the wiring need to be and there are some extensions in the wiring. The important connections are soldered, the speaker wiring was done with butt connectors. The amplifier is mounted above the glove box and the LOC is mounted on a bracket to the right of the radio.

After I mapped out how I was going to route my harness, I went ahead and ran the power wire through the firewall where there was already factory wiring coming through. I had gotten a 12 gauge amplifier wiring kit to run the power to the battery with a fuse (same rating as the amp -15A) and ground to a ground junction that is right behind and below the radio. View attachment 139255 View attachment 139256

The ground wire was done with the final install of everything. I used solder-seal connectors that you just heat and the solder melts wires together and seals the heat shrink over it all for the power and ground.
View attachment 139257 View attachment 139260

Here is the wiring harness going into the dash. The power, remote on, and ground for the LOC are integrated into the harness. The speaker wire input from the radio goes into the LOC from the male harness that goes to the radio. The LOC feeds the sound to the amp through the RCA cables built into the amp and the amp feeds the sound into the female wiring harness and into the factory speaker wiring. I put wiring loom over the wiring and taped it all together. I have seen people use something called Tesa tape for this as well. I would use Tesa tape next time, as it would be much more flexible and allow the wiring to fit into tight spaces better. I had already replaced the rear speakers with some Power Acoustic 6.5's and I already installed Power Acoustik tweeters up front to replace the factory ones.
View attachment 139258

Here is the amp and LOC mounted in their locations. I zip tied the LOC to the bracket and I used 3M Dual Lock to mount the amp to the short surface just above and to the left of the piece that the glove box latches onto to close. This was tricky! There is a lot of space in the void above the glove box, but really no places to mount anything. You also have to consider that space is needed in case the passenger airbag has to deploy in a collision. Mounting in the glove box will not work, there cannot be any wires or anything to the sides of or behind the glove box or it won't close.
View attachment 139259

All in all, the amp kicks ass and the sound system is like it should have been from the factory! I have the gain turned all the way up for the rear speakers, and, they are still not as loud as the front :( I have the gain turned about 75% for the front speakers. I went from listening to music on level 20 or 22 to listening to the same music on level 15 or 17 and shaking the rear view mirror. I plan on replacing the factory front door speakers and the Power Acoustik tweeters with a component set in the future.

Takeaways:

I would say that bare minimum, a similar amp should be installed and replace the factory tweeters for sure, those make the biggest difference in sound. If the door speakers are going to be replaced, get ones with a high db sensitivity -- 91 and up to take full advantage of the power.

There is really no space to install a larger amplifier under the front seats, in my point of view anyway. I think that the mini amps like this Kenwood, the mini Alpine, etc are solid choices for the CR-V but mounting locations are the real challenge.

I would have, and will in the future, use the solder seal connectors for all of the connections in the wiring harness. Not because there is any issue, just because they are superior to crimp connectors. Also, I would have staggered all of the connections so that there were not all done in the same places to reduce the need for such large wiring loom.
 

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The more I look at this the more I like it in terms of bang for the buck, simplicity, and ease of installation, plus not a huge drain on the CR-V's fairly meager electrical system. I might also add an under-seat sub, under the rear seat. Not willing to give up my passenger seat storage bin, where I keep my manuals so that my glove box has room in it.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
The more I look at this the more I like it in terms of bang for the buck, simplicity, and ease of installation, plus not a huge drain on the CR-V's fairly meager electrical system. I might also add an under-seat sub, under the rear seat. Not willing to give up my passenger seat storage bin, where I keep my manuals so that my glove box has room in it.
Oh, it totally is. I got mine on Ebay open box (no wiring harness) for $60 shipped and a brand new Kenwood wiring harness for $20 shipped. I think the aftermarket meant for these mini amps to fill this role precisely - basically amplifying your factory or aftermarket speakers where the stock radio/amp falls short. Also people use these in boats, golf carts, atv and motorcycle stereos. In fact, the Kenwood I have has some coating sprayed onto the circuit boards to protect from water and dust.

You mean the glovebox? You don't have to sacrifice any space in there at all. My amp is mounted above the glovebox in the void behind the dash. You could mount one of the mini amps under a seat but it will require making a long wiring harness. And you would want to mount it to a hard surface, not directly to the carpet.

There is only room for about a 2 inch tall amplifier under the seats, and not much room for a larger amp.
 

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No, I'm just talking about an under-seat sub - don't want to put it under the passenger seat and lose my storage bin there, so I plan to put it under the rear seat. Also I might go with the LS7i for the LOC. It has 6 channels to give me subouts and separate tweeter outs instead of separate crossovers for component tweeters. But I do like that amp.
 

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You don't happen to remember which harnesses you went with, do you? And I assume you didn't lose any non-audio stuff via the bridge wiring, right? This looks like exactly what I'd like to do; as much as I'd like to run an iDatalink system I can't justify the cost when all I'm after is enough power to run better-than-stock speakers.

Ok, so I had been gathering my components and did my mini amp install. I went with a Kenwood KAC-M1804 (45x4 RMS watts) and a PAC 4 channel line-out converter with adjustable gains.

First I bought male and female aftermarket wiring harnesses that plug into both the vehicle wiring and the factory radio. I took the wiring harnesses from the amp and the LOC and integrated them into those harnesses with some extensions for length. Now with my bench made harness, the speaker wiring from the male harness that goes into the radio goes into the LOC and the amplified sound feeds into the factory speaker wiring into the female harness. The 'bridge' between the two is the the power, remote on, ground and illumination from the female harness to the male harness. The entire thing could be removed and the vehicle connector plugged right back into the factory radio like it once was. It is pictured here with the amp and LOC.

View attachment 139254

I took the radio out and figured out how long all of the wiring need to be and there are some extensions in the wiring. The important connections are soldered, the speaker wiring was done with butt connectors. The amplifier is mounted above the glove box and the LOC is mounted on a bracket to the right of the radio.

After I mapped out how I was going to route my harness, I went ahead and ran the power wire through the firewall where there was already factory wiring coming through. I had gotten a 12 gauge amplifier wiring kit to run the power to the battery with a fuse (same rating as the amp -15A) and ground to a ground junction that is right behind and below the radio. View attachment 139255 View attachment 139256

The ground wire was done with the final install of everything. I used solder-seal connectors that you just heat and the solder melts wires together and seals the heat shrink over it all for the power and ground.
View attachment 139257 View attachment 139260

Here is the wiring harness going into the dash. The power, remote on, and ground for the LOC are integrated into the harness. The speaker wire input from the radio goes into the LOC from the male harness that goes to the radio. The LOC feeds the sound to the amp through the RCA cables built into the amp and the amp feeds the sound into the female wiring harness and into the factory speaker wiring. I put wiring loom over the wiring and taped it all together. I have seen people use something called Tesa tape for this as well. I would use Tesa tape next time, as it would be much more flexible and allow the wiring to fit into tight spaces better. I had already replaced the rear speakers with some Power Acoustic 6.5's and I already installed Power Acoustik tweeters up front to replace the factory ones.
View attachment 139258

Here is the amp and LOC mounted in their locations. I zip tied the LOC to the bracket and I used 3M Dual Lock to mount the amp to the short surface just above and to the left of the piece that the glove box latches onto to close. This was tricky! There is a lot of space in the void above the glove box, but really no places to mount anything. You also have to consider that space is needed in case the passenger airbag has to deploy in a collision. Mounting in the glove box will not work, there cannot be any wires or anything to the sides of or behind the glove box or it won't close.
View attachment 139259

All in all, the amp kicks ass and the sound system is like it should have been from the factory! I have the gain turned all the way up for the rear speakers, and, they are still not as loud as the front :( I have the gain turned about 75% for the front speakers. I went from listening to music on level 20 or 22 to listening to the same music on level 15 or 17 and shaking the rear view mirror. I plan on replacing the factory front door speakers and the Power Acoustik tweeters with a component set in the future.

Takeaways:

I would say that bare minimum, a similar amp should be installed and replace the factory tweeters for sure, those make the biggest difference in sound. If the door speakers are going to be replaced, get ones with a high db sensitivity -- 91 and up to take full advantage of the power.

There is really no space to install a larger amplifier under the front seats, in my point of view anyway. I think that the mini amps like this Kenwood, the mini Alpine, etc are solid choices for the CR-V but mounting locations are the real challenge.

I would have, and will in the future, use the solder seal connectors for all of the connections in the wiring harness. Not because there is any issue, just because they are superior to crimp connectors. Also, I would have staggered all of the connections so that there were not all done in the same places to reduce the need for such large wiring loom.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The harness brand didn't matter to me. They were all off of Ebay, I don't recall the brands. I don't have iDataLink as far as I know. I just have the base sound system. I retained my factory radio and everything works as intended.
 

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I don't care about the brand either, I just want to make sure I find what I need for the six speaker system while retaining cameras and other functions through the radio. Both Scosche and Metra only show male harnesses and their website descriptions are useless , so I didn't want to order the wrong parts.

And FYI, the iDatalink system is similar to what you made; it's necessary if you want all of the stock functions to work on a new aftermarket head unit with screen. The only problem is that it's $150+ plus a few hundred for the new head unit.



The harness brand didn't matter to me. They were all off of Ebay, I don't recall the brands. I don't have iDataLink as far as I know. I just have the base sound system. I retained my factory radio and everything works as intended.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I had no issues with retaining my factory features as there are not that many other than steering wheel controls for the models below the EX-L. I think there could stand to be a separate thread for people looking to integrate an aftermarket amp with the EX-Ls.
 

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Sorry to keep bugging you/mucking up your thread, riverrockG19.

So, I think I've found what I need: a Metra 70-1729 harness (female end) and a Metra 71-1729 (male). What's confusing me is that the 70 (female) has 13 wires (8 for the speakers and five for ground, constant power, switched power, illumination, and amp turn-on) while the 71 (male) has 24 wires. My searches for an EX six speaker system wiring diagram are also coming up empty, so I have no idea what connections I would need to bridge nor what wires would need to be routed to the amp. I contacted Metra and they have been zero help; in fact, they only advertise the 71 (male) harness as being a fit for the CRV, and the supplied instructions/diagram with the harness is for 08-09 Accords. If needed I could always buy two of the 70s and unpin one so that I can repin one with a full 24 wires but I have no idea how many wires in total I even need.

What I should be able to do is create a new harness/amp loop like yours: a 71 into the factory stereo with a bridge to a 70 for the car's wiring with the speaker outs being routed through a Kicker KEY 1804.4, a combo DSP (to kill off any head unit-applied EQ) and speaker-level input amp (which allows me to avoid using a LOC). But then that leads me to my next issue: if I replace the front speakers I'll have to use a crossover, so why bother with the factory wiring in the first place?
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Sorry to keep bugging you/mucking up your thread, riverrockG19.

So, I think I've found what I need: a Metra 70-1729 harness (female end) and a Metra 71-1729 (male). What's confusing me is that the 70 (female) has 13 wires (8 for the speakers and five for ground, constant power, switched power, illumination, and amp turn-on) while the 71 (male) has 24 wires. My searches for an EX six speaker system wiring diagram are also coming up empty, so I have no idea what connections I would need to bridge nor what wires would need to be routed to the amp. I contacted Metra and they have been zero help; in fact, they only advertise the 71 (male) harness as being a fit for the CRV, and the supplied instructions/diagram with the harness is for 08-09 Accords. If needed I could always buy two of the 70s and unpin one so that I can repin one with a full 24 wires but I have no idea how many wires in total I even need.

What I should be able to do is create a new harness/amp loop like yours: a 71 into the factory stereo with a bridge to a 70 for the car's wiring with the speaker outs being routed through a Kicker KEY 1804.4, a combo DSP (to kill off any head unit-applied EQ) and speaker-level input amp (which allows me to avoid using a LOC). But then that leads me to my next issue: if I replace the front speakers I'll have to use a crossover, so why bother with the factory wiring in the first place?
That's really weird. I didn't have that issue. My harnesses were off of eBay and were two different brands IIRC. Here are the two Metra harnesses, and I confirmed that they were the two part numbers you listed in your last post. The harnesses are for 08-up Hondas, they are all the same. You only need the 8 speaker wires, batt pos. and neg., blue remote on, and orange illumination wire and the yellow switched power - the 13 that the female has. So I would think you would match up the 13 wires from the female to the corresponding ones in the male harness. You should call Metra first and ask about this before you dive into that, and ask why the male has 11 more wires. Or you could send them back and go on eBay, and search for similar harnesses by a different brand like the ones I have. Mine had the same number of wires male and female.

139930
139929


As far as the gear you are planning to run, I am not familiar with the KEY amp or DSP. I used an LOC and I would highly recommend one regardless of what you are going to install. In any case, you will need to add wiring into your bridge to make it be able to reach all of the components.

My advice on making your bridge is to keep it's 'limbs' small in diameter and flexible, but also protect the wiring. Use Tesa tape and/or electrical tape. The wire loom I used is a huge problem with fitting the bridge through the metal framework behind the dash, and it had to be big - 1" diameter. I also recommend using solder-seal or 'solder-in-place' connectors, that you slide over two twisted together wires and then use a lighter or heat gun to melt the solder inside over them and heat shrink the ends all at once - kinda. You need to practice with some scrap wire first to get the technique down.

And for your last concern - nope, you don't have to use a crossover. There is already one built in to the factory wiring. All the more reason to use it. A rule to remember is, you can overpower factory speakers and have no problems if done right, but you cannot under power speakers made to be fed by serious power - you will blow them. It's counter intuitive. You can safely run the factory door speakers with an amp that is not too powerful (keep it under 50w RMS) but you will want to replace the tweeters with aftermarket ones of some good, serious quality. My cheap Power Acoustik aftermarket tweeters 'hiss' even with the gain turned down a little. They did even before the amp, but it's much louder now. But, the quality you will gain far outweighs the white noise from them. You will need to cut off the factory harness to the tweeters and wire the aftermarket ones in, or, buy aftermarket harness adapters. Replacing the tweeters is essential, its easy, and is the best bang for your buck. My factory door speakers make my mirrors shake.

You will not be able to get an equal volume from the rear speakers unless you replace the head unit. They will be louder with an amp, but not proportionate to the fronts. If this isn't important, then keep the factory head unit. To me, the entire point of the mini amp is to use it with everything else factory - sans the tweeters.
 

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I had no issues with retaining my factory features as there are not that many other than steering wheel controls for the models below the EX-L. I think there could stand to be a separate thread for people looking to integrate an aftermarket amp with the EX-Ls.
Hey man, I got an email notification that you replied but by the time I logged in there was nothing here. I'm not sure what ended up getting goofed up.
 

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That's really weird. I didn't have that issue. My harnesses were off of eBay and were two different brands IIRC. I'm cutting the rest of this quote
It's pretty incredible how little info I can find online about the 2016 EX. People have put together three thousand page manuals available documenting every strand of wire for other cars but online info about this model is pretty sparse.

I (stupidly) assumed all 4th Gen options were similar. My factory stereo is a touchscreen that I don't think was standard on the EX until 2015. If yours is a 2012 and it has a normal stereo we're dealing with slightly different connections, and that could be why you were able to find working harnesses on eBay for yours while I can't find any.

After speaking to Metra again, it looks like the 70 isn't fully populated because it's made for an aftermarket stereo. I'll need to pull my factory one to verify just how many wires are actually going in; if it's more than 13 as I originally thought, I will have to buy a third harness and repopulate wires into the 70 so I can make a 24-to-24 (or however many) connection.

As for the wiring: I ordered 24 feet of additional wire to get me started. For eight speaker wires I'll have 18 inches of extension from the harness to the amp and then 18 inches back to the second harness. I'll have to see if that's enough line to get the amp into the glovebox (if it's impossible to place it behind the stereo/anywhere else behind the dash). I planned on soldering everything and will more than likely use Tesa to bunch everything together.

And as for the speakers: After looking at Civic and HRV forums, it seems like the "crossover" Honda uses is just a hidden inline capacitor. I need to figure out where that is because that will affect how the front speakers are wired. I will be buying a new component set; it'll be nice if the capacitor is close to the woofer because then I'll be able to put in the proper crossover and still use the factory wiring within the door.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Yes, I think the 12-13 vehicles and the 14-16 vehicles differ more than just appearances, going by what I am seeing here.

Definitely don't mount the amp right behind the stereo. If it ever dropped in the process or at any other time, it will fall all the way down in the void which is below that space. Best place in the dash is above the glove box in the void behind the dashboard. You will have to be creative. I used 3M Dual Lock and zip ties. I'm sure it can be done much better, but you will never see it anyway.

I would give myself two feet of wiring extension. Better to have more than you need than not enough. I used different color wiring for my bridge extensions, but either way, you will want to take a look at where the bridge will install and how it will route before you make it and test it out before you install it. I loosely taped my bridge together before I made any connections and test fit it. There is absolutely no room behind the glove box, it has to be above it, and I highly discourage mounting it right up against the passenger airbag.
 

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12-14 do have resistive touch screen navigation head units, Windows based, I'd guess. 15-16 have Android based capacitive touch screen units.
The OEM amp is located at the floor level in the center console. Below the shifter.
 

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IIRC the Five Star Car Stereo YouTube Channel has an hour-long install video on a 2016. Their videos are pretty thorough, sometimes.
 
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