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I actually just got my 2012 CR-V a little over a year ago (in April of 2019, if I recall correctly). I think it's an EX model; but I'm not certain of that, and I'm not sure how to find that out (or if the model will even be relevant). It's currently got around 112,000 miles on it.

I've been having battery issues for several months; actually, probably, close to a year now. It's been sporadic, with no pattern to the dead battery problems, that I can think of. Sometimes, there will be no problems with regards to the battery not being charged enough to start the vehicle for a couple months; other times, the problem will come about 5 times in a week or two. After having read the many complaints about the dead battery/battery drain problems with 2012 CR-V models, I believe that my CR-V is definitely suffering from that common problem on this year vehicle. Unfortunately, I don't know what the fix is; or if there even is an actual fix for this battery drain problem; but I know that I am tired of my vehicle not starting reliably. And I'm sure that I will need a new battery, no matter what; so I'm ready to buy one, as it seems like it's unavoidable. The main reason that I have put off buying a new battery for the past several months, is because I didn't want to spend the money on a new battery, only for it to start being drained/dying and having the same problems in a few months. However, as I mentioned, I am almost certainly going to need a new battery, regardless, so I figured I should try to get some information and suggestions about which battery to buy, and if there are any options for putting a larger-size battery in a 2012 CR-V, than the 51R battery that came in it.

I just went outside and checked and the battery that is in my 2012 CR-V (that came installed when I got it last year) is a Super Start Premium 51RPRMJ with 425 Cold Cranking Amps.

I have been trying to find a good deal on a used battery on OfferUp, but even used 51R batteries are typically going for $60-$70, on the lower end. Plus, I won't know the history of the battery, which is definitely a potential concern. I found an Econocraft 51R-E Battery that AutoZone carries that is currently available for $80, which is very tempting, but it only has a 3 Month Free Replacement Warranty, which is discouraging. If anyone would like to look at this Econocraft battery and let me know if it might be worth buying, I would appreciate it.

Link to $80 Econocraft battery: https://www.autozone.com/batteries-starting-and-charging/battery/econocraft-battery-51r-e-group-size-51r-410-cca/811865_0_0


Unfortunately, the next lowest-priced battery that my local AutoZone currently carries is the Duralast Battery 51R-DL Group Size 51R 425 CCA, which is $140; which is a major price increase, but does have a 2 Year Warranty. Would it be worth taking a chance on the $80 Econocraft battery? Or is that likely a bad idea?

Also, is it possible to fit a physically larger battery in a 2012 CR-V? Or is a 51R the only size battery that will fit/can be used? If a different size/physically larger battery can be used, does anyone have any suggestions or recommendations about a specific battery to consider buying?

Btw, I have an Amazon Prime account, so I could order from Amazon. And there is an O’Reilly Auto Parts and a Walmart in the small town where I live, as other potential options


I apologize for making this post so long. I don't know what to do, when it comes to a long-term battery/battery-charging solution, but I do know that the battery that is currently in my is definitely weakened and seems to no longer be a dependably battery that can be relied on. I have gone outside to drive somewhere 3 times since last night, within the past 24 hours, only to not be able to start my CR-V, because the barttery was too weak to start it. It also happened last week, when I went outside to leave for work. I have left the battery on a battery charger overnight, and I've typically left the car running for 30 minutes to over an hour, after getting it started, but I keep encountering this problem. So, regardless of whether or not my CR-V does have this ridiculous charging problem that many other 2012 CR-Vs have, I need to buy a new battery ASAP.


Also, before I forget. Is there a recall for this charging issue that has plagued so many 2012 CR-V vehicles? I know that I read something about there being a recall a few months ago, and there was even a link to check your VIN on the Honda website to see if it qualifies for a recall, but my CR-V's VIN did not show up as being eligible for the recall. Is it possible that my CR-V already had the recall done, but I'm just unaware of it? And is there another way to find out about a possible recall for the battery/charging system issues that my particular 2012 CR-V is experiencing?


Again, I'm sorry for writing such a long post. If anyone would like to recommend a good (and relatively affordable, preferably) battery to buy for my CR-V, I would really appreciate it. And if you could post a link to the battery, that would be great. Also, if anyone can offer me any helpful information about potential recall eligibility for my vehicle, that would be nice to hear about. And if anyone knows of any potential fixes for this awful battery/charging system that my CR-V likely has, I would sincerely appreciate some useful information.

Thank you very much for your time!
 

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I wouldn't begin to consider a used battery. The potential issues aren't worth a little savings unless you are selling the vehicle in the immediate future.
The battery you currently have is an OReilly battery about $140. Check it to see if the date code was punched to get an idea how old it is. New they have up to a 3 year replacement warranty.
Walmart is a good option also. If you have issues, they have stores everywhere. It will run $130 and also has a 3 year warranty.
Either of the above retailers can do a charging/battery test to confirm where your issue lies.

Many upgrade to a larger group size battery as the OE size is barely adequate. There can be additional cost involved going this route. There are a number of threads in the forums discussing this option.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I wouldn't begin to consider a used battery. The potential issues aren't worth a little savings unless you are selling the vehicle in the immediate future.
The battery you currently have is an OReilly battery about $140. Check it to see if the date code was punched to get an idea how old it is. New they have up to a 3 year replacement warranty.
Walmart is a good option also. If you have issues, they have stores everywhere. It will run $130 and also has a 3 year warranty.
Either of the above retailers can do a charging/battery test to confirm where your issue lies.

Many upgrade to a larger group size battery as the OE size is barely adequate. There can be additional cost involved going this route. There are a number of threads in the forums discussing this option.
Thank you very much for the prompt reply and the useful information. As for the battery, I specifically recall seeing something about 2017 on the battery's label, but I tried to look and see the month on the date code was punched, but, unfortunately, from what I could see, it was not actually punched. Which sucks, as it seems like it could possibly be eligible for replacement; but that that can't be verified, since the month was not punched on that date code label.

Edit: While the date code label was not marked, there is a little round sticker on the battery that looks like it shows "3/17", which would seem to indicate that that's the month and year when it was sold/when the warranty date would start. So, apparently, getting a free replacement at O'Reilly's would not be an option.

As for upgrading to a larger-sized battery, what are your thoughts on that? Is that what you would want to try to do? Or is it likely too costly? And is there a 51R battery that is significantly more powerful than the battery that I currently have in it?
 

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I upgraded the 2007 I had and the 2013 I currently own. On both vehicles the OE battery was dragging during cold starts by 3 years old. I used the Odyssey tray and case on my 13. I don't recall the exact cost of the parts maybe $25-30. I believe some on the forum go without the Odyssey parts.
The downside to the 51r, there is minimal difference between brands on the CA/CCA, even in the premium models.
 

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I don't scrimp on anything for my car, but the two most critical things I would NEVER scrimp on are tires and batteries. The Group 51R is woefully undersized for a car - in fact it is standard on many riding lawnmowers. After replaceing two 51R's in two years, I upgraded to an AGM 24F using Odyssey parts. I am short-tempered when it comes to having my vehicle strand me, so I will go the extra distance to make sure it doesn't. You can go with another 51R, but don't expect it to last very long.
 
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I apologize for making this post so long.
In that case, I apologize for not reading the whole thing. ;):giggle:



But as I've mentioned in the past, search out an Interstate Battery warehouse/distribution center, and inquire about their ECONO line of refurbished batteries. You could get the bigger one.

Every one is tested, and the last one I bought in February 2020 cost about $65 USD. The only downside is that the warranty is only 6 months...but I've had them last 7 years in my '06.

In 15 years of buying these, I've only had one that failed within a year (and on that one, I left the ignition on). :mad:
 
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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
I don't scrimp on anything for my car, but the two most critical things I would NEVER scrimp on are tires and batteries. The Group 51R is woefully undersized for a car - in fact it is standard on many riding lawnmowers. After replaceing two 51R's in two years, I upgraded to an AGM 24F using Odyssey parts. I am short-tempered when it comes to having my vehicle strand me, so I will go the extra distance to make sure it doesn't. You can go with another 51R, but don't expect it to last very long.
Thank you very much for the replies and the feedback, both of y'all. As for using a different/larger battery than the 51R, I forgot to mention this earlier, part of the reason that I asked about this is because my sister had borrowed the vehicle a couple months ago and the battery went dead on her. If I recall correctly, she had gone to a yard sale and that's where the battery let her down, and the person who was having the yard sale saw her struggling to start the CR-V and offered to give her a (different-sized) battery that they had lying around and not being used. So, after she got back from the yard sale, there was a different battery in it and it was not a 51R, but a standard-size car battery, from what I recall. I think it was a tight fit, but it fit well enough for the hood to latch and not be a problem. However, unfortunately, that battery was apparently not very strong/healthy, as it ended up going dead shortly afterward and then wouldn't take a good charge, even after charging it with a battery charger overnight. So, I ended up putting the 51R battery back in it, after charging it.

This was like 2-3 months ago, and my memory sucks, so I honestly can not recall what exact battery size this other one was, nor exactly how tightly it fit in the battery compartment in my CR-V. It did fit, though, and the hood shut/latched, so that's what made me think about a larger battery size being a potential option. And this was without any sort of modification or aftermarket parts - other than, possibly, part of the plastic case that goes around the 51R battery being removed. I can't even be sure about that, though, as I legitimately can not recall whether or not the plastic did have to be removed for it to fit, or if it came loose when I removed it to put the 51R battery back in it.


With that said, is it feasible to safely and securely put a larger battery in the battery platform area of a 2012 CR-V without any sort of modification or aftermarket parts being used? If so, is this only practical/safe with certain size batteries? Or, is this not recommended, at all, without using a different tray and/or case? And if I would need to use a different case/tray from another vehicle, which particular vehicle's tray/case would be a good option for my 2012 CR-V? I see that using the battery compartment parts from an Odyssey is mentioned by both of you, so I'm curious, would the parts from the same year (2012) Odyssey work in my (2012) CR-V? Are there multiple year Odyssey battery tray parts that would be compatible with my 2012 CR-V? And is there an aftermarket battery case/tray that is made for the 2012 CR-V that would allow it to accommodate a larger battery? Or is this something that you have to improvise on? And is replacing the factory battery tray and case with the Odyssey parts fairly straightforward and simple?


If either of you would like to reply again and elaborate on this some more, I would really appreciate that. And if there is a specific size battery that you would recommend using as an alternative to a 51R, please feel free to recommend one. Especially, if it would be less-expensive than a 51R or, at least, around the same price.

And, again, thank you both for taking the time to read and reply to my posts. Please know that I really appreciate it!


By the way, I have to ask, since one of you also mentioned that you absolutely do not want to skimp on tires, what are your thoughts on only buying 2 new tires to have installed? From what I recently gathered, on an AWD vehicle, it is generally recommended to replace all 4 tires at the same time, but I have one particular tire that is in dire need of replacement ASAP (it will lose air so drastically and rapidly that it will go from 32 PSI to around 15 PSI in less than 2 days right now) and I'm not in a position to spend $500 to buy 4 new tires and have them installed. I don't know if I mentioned this in this post, or if I mentioned it in the other post that I also made a few hours ago, about the dashboard warning lights that are currently lit up in my CR-V, but I desperately need at least 1 new tire immediately.

The tires that are on my vehicle are 225/65R17 Goodyear Assurance tires. While I'm not really in a position to buy all 4 new tires, I am planning on buying 2 new tires to have installed at the same time, so I'm curious, do I specifically need to try to get these same exact Goodyear Assurance tires, since I'm only replacing 2 of them? Or would it be OK to buy 2 different brand tires, and just be sure to put the 2 pair of matching tires on the appropriate rims? Which, I'm assuming the tire shop would automatically do.

Also, what are your thoughts on buying used tires, specifically, if the tires have a 2018 or 2019 date on them and they are in legitimately good-excellent condition? After doing a quick search, brand new 225/65R17 Goodyear Assurance All-Season Radial tires from Walmart, and on Amazon, look to cost around $125 each, and I found a local shop that will install them for $25 each. The local tire shop also has some 225/65R17 tires in stock for around $125 each, that would include installation, but I don't recall the brand; however I'm almost certain that they were not Goodyear brand tires.

As for used tires, here are a set of 2 Firestone tires for $60 on OfferUp that I was considering buying, if anyone wants to check them out and give me some feedback: https://offerup.com/item/detail/927134574/

The same seller has a set of 4 tires for $140, with 2019 dates, but they aren't all the same brand tires: https://offerup.com/item/detail/927557744/


As usual, I apologize for the post being so long. If someone would like to reply and offer me some more helpful feedback, including some tire/battery suggestions and links, I would really appreciate that!
 

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Discussion Starter #8
In that case, I apologize for not reading the whole thing. ;):giggle:



But as I've mentioned in the past, search out an Interstate Battery warehouse/distribution center, and inquire about their ECONO line of refurbished batteries. You could get the bigger one.

Every one is tested, and the last one I bought in February 2020 cost about $65 USD. The only downside is that the warranty is only 6 months...but I've had them last 7 years in my '06.

In 15 years of buying these, I've only had one that failed within a year (and on that one, I left the ignition on). :mad:
Thank you for the reply and the suggestion. I just did a Google search for an Interstate Battery warehouse distribution center and I'm going to see if they have some in the Phoenix Metro area. Also, I'm curious, when say to look for the ECONO line of refurbished batteries and that I could "get the bigger one," do you mean that I could get a bigger 51R battery with more CCA? Or that I could get a bigger battery in a larger size?

And are you saying that you have gotten a refurbished ECONO line Interstate 51R battery for $65?
 

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This thread here will give you plenty to study: Larger Group 24 Battery Install .

It starts out with the op working on his 2013 V, and through the thread many other years are also looked at, but there is plenty of Gen 4 info on there, as well as many different ways of doing the job and different batteries that can be used.
 

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If you replace the battery, even if you upsize it to a larger group class.... if there is a latent parasitic and you do not find it and fix it first... you will just end up with another compromised battery.

A half a dozen heavy depletions of a brand new battery can cause that battery to fail early.... perhaps within months... depending on how depleted and for how long.

So.. make sure you have no abnormal parasitic draw in the vehicle somewhere BEFORE, or shortly after, replacing the battery.
 

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when you say to look for the ECONO line of refurbished batteries and that I could "get the bigger one," do you mean that I could get a bigger 51R battery with more CCA? Or that I could get a bigger battery in a larger size?

And are you saying that you have gotten a refurbished ECONO line Interstate 51R battery for $65?
You could either get the 51R or use the topic linked, to 'upgrade' to a Group 24.

Yes, $65 is what I paid in February (plus NJ taxes of course). (When I first started buying ECONO batteries they were $35... :mad: :rolleyes: <SIGH>)
 
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What is wrong with the tire that loses air so quickly, can't it be fixed?
From what I was told by someone at the auto shop a couple months ago, the reason the tire is losing air is because the tread has worn down and the "tread warning" is so low that it can't even be repaired. This is one of the Goodyear Assurance tires that came on the vehicle when I got it a little over a year ago. They recommended getting a new tire, 2 new tires, actually, claiming that the driver's side rear tire also needed to be replaced; but that tire hadn't been losing air, and still hasn't been going low, so I'm not sure if they were just trying to get me to buy 2 new tires? Or if they actually checked it out, and the thread was wearing down, and it was/is in need of being replaced soon?

Whatever the case, I plan on buying 2 tires, so that I can have the 2 new tires put in the appropriate spots, since that seems to be practical/safe/recommended. I actually called the local Discount Tire shop in town and they said that they would not even install just 2 new tires, since it's an AWD vehicle, that they would require a set of 4 tires to be purchased and installed, if they did the work.

As of right now, my plan is to buy 2 tires, probably, 2 brand new tires, since I live in a small town and there are not many used tires available. I called the local Firestone shop in town and they can order some of their Firestone tires, All-Season, I believe, rated at 45,000 miles, if I recall correctly, that would cost me around $215 for the 2 new tires and installation. The next cheapest tires they have would be around $320, so I'm planning on getting the 2 tires that are available for $215, since the $105 difference could be used to buy a new battery, which I desperately need.


As I mentioned in a previous post, I did find what looks to be a good deal on some used tires, 2 Firestone 225/65R17 tires, with a 2018 date on them and are listed as being in "Excellent" condition, for $60. If I were to buy these 2 Firestone tires for $60 (which I would have to try to go pick up while I'm down in the Phoenix area for work), I would have to then pay $50 to have the 2 tires installed, making the cost $110 total, which would save me an additional $100 off of the $215 cost of getting the 2 cheaper brand new Firestone tires. However, I realize that these tires are used and that I don't know the history of them, and there's no warranty, and I would likely have to go about 30 miles past my work to be able to get them, so I'm really not sure that I want to do what will be necessary to buy these used tires. As usual, nothing about my situation is simple or convenient and I'm extremely indecisive and I don't know what to do.

If you would like to share your thoughts on my tire buying issues, and maybe check out the 2 used Firestone tires for $60 and let me know what you think about them, I would appreciate it.

Link to 2 used Firestone tires for $60 on OfferUp: https://offerup.com/item/detail/927134574/
 

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Discussion Starter #15
You could either get the 51R or use the topic linked, to 'upgrade' to a Group 24.

Yes, $65 is what I paid in February (plus NJ taxes of course). (When I first started buying ECONO batteries they were $35... :mad: :rolleyes: <SIGH>)
Thanks for the reply and the suggestion, but when I searched the local warehouses here in the Phoenix, Az, area (Mesa/Scottsdale, to be specific), I couldn't find any 51R batteries. It would be great to be able to get a good-quality battery for $65, but it doesn't seem like an option for me, here in Arizona. Unfortunately, it looks like I'm likely going to have to end up paying $120 plus tax for one at my local Walmart.
 

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If you replace the battery, even if you upsize it to a larger group class.... if there is a latent parasitic and you do not find it and fix it first... you will just end up with another compromised battery.

A half a dozen heavy depletions of a brand new battery can cause that battery to fail early.... perhaps within months... depending on how depleted and for how long.

So.. make sure you have no abnormal parasitic draw in the vehicle somewhere BEFORE, or shortly after, replacing the battery.
I've read about this parasitic drain and how it seems to likely be a common problem on the 2012 CR-V models, but how exactly would I try to find out if my vehicle is suffering from this issue? Is there a simple way to check? And are there any typical simple fixes for the issue?
 

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Also, I went to my local Walmart and saw that they have an EverStart Group 56 battery that looks like it's not much larger than a 51R size battery, so I was wondering if this Group 56 battery might fit in my 2012 CR-V without any modifications? Not only does the Group 56 battery have more CCA (590, compared to 500 on the 51R), but it's also $20 cheaper than the 51R battery that it sits right next to. I'll post a link to the exact Group 56 Battery that I'm talking about, in case anyone would like to check it and let me know if they think this Group 56 battery would fit in the battery area of my 2012 CR-V? And if it would fit, would it be a better option than the 51R battery?


Link to $100 EverStart Group 56 battery: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Plus-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-56-12-Volt-590-CCA/28275674

Link to $120 EverStart 51R battery: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-51R-12-Volt-500-CCA/28275660
 

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when I searched the local warehouses here in the Phoenix, Az, area (Mesa/Scottsdale, to be specific), I couldn't find any 51R batteries
You might have to call each warehouse. Also (if your need isn't urgent) you could ask them to provide one (might take a couple days unless they have shut-down due to COVID)

Regards the Group 56 fitment, I believe the Interstate website has dimensions on all the batteries. You would need width, depth, height, and battery terminal orientation. You would also need the dimensions of the plastic tray you would be using (either original, or the Odyssey one that the Group 24 mod suggests).
 

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I've read about this parasitic drain and how it seems to likely be a common problem on the 2012 CR-V models, but how exactly would I try to find out if my vehicle is suffering from this issue? Is there a simple way to check? And are there any typical simple fixes for the issue?
In my view... this youtube represents the best practice for chasing down a parasitic drain:


The method presented allows you to track and isolate without having to disconnect your battery, putting an amp meter in series with it, and then proceed to pull fuses one at a time until the current drops to normal parasitic levels for your generation CRV.
 

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Also, I went to my local Walmart and saw that they have an EverStart Group 56 battery that looks like it's not much larger than a 51R size battery, so I was wondering if this Group 56 battery might fit in my 2012 CR-V without any modifications? Not only does the Group 56 battery have more CCA (590, compared to 500 on the 51R), but it's also $20 cheaper than the 51R battery that it sits right next to. I'll post a link to the exact Group 56 Battery that I'm talking about, in case anyone would like to check it and let me know if they think this Group 56 battery would fit in the battery area of my 2012 CR-V? And if it would fit, would it be a better option than the 51R battery?


Link to $100 EverStart Group 56 battery: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Plus-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-56-12-Volt-590-CCA/28275674

Link to $120 EverStart 51R battery: https://www.walmart.com/ip/EverStart-Maxx-Lead-Acid-Automotive-Battery-Group-Size-51R-12-Volt-500-CCA/28275660
I would not bother with a Group 56. Reason: only 6% more reserve charge capacity compared to a 51R... which is in the noise.. and it is reserve capacity that you need to focus on with regard to battery charge over time VS normal parasitic drain.

If you want to upsize for more reserve charge.... best go with a Group 24, and there are plenty of threads in this forum that explain in detail how to retrofit the tray for a Group 24. A group 24 will give you about 25-30% more reserve charge capacity compared to a equivalent technology 51R.
 
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