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I recommend the OEM Honda battery. It's a 100 month warranty and it's full replacement for the first 3 years, not pro rated. At my Honda dealer it was $175 installed but I found it at the dealer's online parts website for around $108. With the core return it was something like $95. It only takes a few minutes to install a battery and I saved $85 installing it myself.
You really need to first find out what's causing this battery drain before you buy more batteries. But get the Honda OEM battery and stop trying to save a buck or two on used batteries.
My brother is a Honda parts manager and when I told him my daughter's Fit battery had died and it was barely 3 years old, he told me "wow, it lasted THAT long?" Basically, he told me that those 100-month warranty batteries don't ever last anywhere near the warranty period (which is over 8 years!). Most of them die before even half the warranty period has gone by.
 

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If you search for 2012 CRV battery drain issue with Google, you will find a Honda Service Bulletin: 2012 CRV Battery issue - Service Bulletin 14-071 - attached here. It shows that the computer misinterprets the "charging mode" the vehicle needs to employ, resulting in insufficient charge. So, it may require a discussion with Honda to see if they have made all the updates. It's not clear if the service bulletin completely fixes the problem. A good diagnosis is your best hope. Get a voltmeter, even a cheap one from harbor freight. Measure the voltage across the battery terminals after driving. It should be around 12Volts. Measure it after the car has been off overnight, especially if the car won't start. If it is lower than before, it has drained. Make sure you try it on the battery itself, and then on the terminals. You should check the terminals for a great connection, no corrosion, etc. If there is a white powder around a battery post, the battery is likely leaking. Use a mild wire brush to clean them and the battery posts. Start the car and measure the voltage during fast idle. It should be around 14 volts. That would eliminate the alternator as a problem. You can take the car to Autozone, or Batteries Plus and let them evaluate the battery under load. Unfortunately, I wonder if most of those machines are programmed to "You need a new battery". Finally, if your battery is more than 2-3 years old it probably needs to be replaced. I buy the best conventional battery I can afford at B+. There are definitely quality differences and it should cost in the range of $120 to $140. B+ has some discounts if you order online and pick up at the store. Never buy a used battery!!!
Given the 2012 problem, I would suggest that it's a combination of the car and the battery age. But... if you want to get down and dirty with measuring phantom loads, I have done that by placing a 100W 0.01 or 0.1 Ohm resistor in series with the battery and measuring across it. I solder heavy leads with battery clips to the resistor and then some wires to attach the voltmeter. Those resistors can be found on Amazon, but you have to know what you're doing. Use Ohm's law to calculate the currents.
 

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Just had the 51R battery issue in my 2014 EXL, ordered a new battery tray and box for a 2014 Odyssey parts now from Honda for around $25.00 for both parts. Installed the new tray with out any modifications, a new NAPA 24R battery along with the new cover. Thanks to all for this improvement modification.
 

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Turn your headlights on and use the auto off function for them. With your headlights off the charging system "brain" keeps the battery voltage lower than optimum to save a tiny bit of gasoline used to charge the battery to full capacity. I had issues with the group 51. Went to the Group 24 platinum from O'Reilly and have my headlights on all the time and haven't had an issue since.
 
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