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Discussion Starter #1
The Toronto Star has a section in the Saturday Star newapaper called Wheels, it included an article about the new Rolls-Royce Wreith
624hp V12 590lb ft torque that tips the scales at 2440 kilograms with highway/city combined fuel consumpton of13.8 L/100..
This where my 2011 CRV are the same,when I compained about the fuel consumption I was told it would get better after a breakin period,
I got fedup with starting to drive like I have an egg under my foot,when the car went in for it's first oil change I compained again only to be told that the CRV 4wd is known for poor use of fuel .If I could afford $284.900 for a Rolls,maybe I would not be distressed by the price at
the pump if I was driving an ultra-luxury surprisingly nimble car that can do zero to 100km in 4.6seconds,I guess I will just keep driving
my wind,road noisy CRV thatoffers 13.8 km/100 16.8 combined today.that untill the new Volvo V60 is available..
 

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Are your cosumption figures from the car's computer only? Could that consumption metering be incorrect? Have you checked by manual calculation from trip meter distance and volume you fill up with?
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
We have a highway 401 that we use frequently to go to Kingston about 250km
east of us,yes I have checked manualy, 120km =12.7/100 at 100km whiched pi$#ed of most other drivers =10.8 this was Summer driving,now the winter trips have resulted in 14.8+ , as the road has hills and valleys that cause the computer to change ,but at trips end the computers
results are basicaly the same as munual,but mixed highway and city=16.8 city.
My brother purchased a new Dodge pickup 8 Speed,knocks the socks off the fuel use of theCRV
dosn't say much for Honda.
My trips are two people no bagage..This is the same for the Dodge..
 

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Does the Volvo run on regular gas?

The CR-V is a pretty heavy vehicle when equipped with 4WD. Personally I think it's under powered for that task. I wonder if you took out the rear drive shaft and tried it FWD only, if that would help the mileage.
I'm amazed at how low the rolling resistance of our CR-V is when I roll it out of the garage so the wife can get to the laundry machines. Easiest car to roll that I've had so far.
What do you keep the tire pressures at?
I find 35 works pretty good on ours.
 

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These are my figures for the first several months. 2011 CRV FWD. Nov/11 to Sept/12. All kinds of driving. Many of those trips on the dreaded 401. I don't drive slow. Total average, summer/winter/all kinds of driving: 9.41 L/100 KM. All manual calculations.

(My previous 2003 4WD averaged 9.44 L/100 KM for similar time period and similar driving.)

L/100 KM

9.63
11.01
9.30
9.81
10.28
11.02
8.78
12.07
8.95
11.04
8.74
10.58
9.10
9.82
10.76
8.90
10.03
9.03
9.95
9.74
8.23
8.43
9.15
9.59
11.80
7.95
10.85
8.35
9.66
9.60
9.40
9.07
8.41
9.16
9.26
8.16
10.27
8.73
8.51
7.47
 

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The highest consumption I have recorded ("manually") at any fuel-up was 9.7 L /100 km (=24 miles per US gallon). I have a 2005 CR-V with a 2.o litre engine; manual gearbox. More often I lie around 8.0-9.3 L/100 km (25-29 mpg US). (Unit conversion done with http://www.convert-me.com/en/convert/fuel/ .)

Your 12.7 - 16.8 L/100 km, Beg E, seems abnormally high. It equals 14-18.5 mpg (US gallons) and 17-22 mpg (Imperial gallons). (I do not know what you Canada-guys use when you don't use litres.)
 

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that fuel economy is about 50 percent off, the dealer is lying to you. this can be serious if it is running too rich, it could damage sensors and the catalytic converter. I presume there is no engine code, if so find out what it is and have it corrected.

The things that can cause high fuel consumption without a code malfunction is: brake dragging from frozen caliper, to check jack up each wheel, trans in neutral and brake off, see if wheel spins freely, there should be light brake caliper or rear shoe drag, not too much. Plugged up catalytic converter or muffler, there are some do-it-yourself tests on this (check youtube) or you can take it to muffler shop that can test it for you. Low or defective/delaminating tires, easy enough to check pressure, you have to do a careful inspection to see if it is "lumpy" and delaminating (or take it to a trusted tire shop).

Also, a bad air temp sensor, water temp sensor, or throttle position sensor (TPS) may still be in the "normal" range, but be giving wrong information to ECU making it run rich. I had a Ford truck with a bad TPS that did not throw a code because it was within normal range, it shifted odd and got really poor economy as well. A new TPS solved both problems. We only found it because a mechanic put a full engine diagnostic tester on it (not a code reader) and noticed the throttle was indicated wide open when the engine was a idle (giving it too much fuel). I later learned that ford is notorious for a bad TPS. Part only cost $35, but having a repair shop check for it would have been about $100! luckly the guy that did our ford was a client of mine and checked it as a favor.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I find your figures amazing,if they are possible then my car must have problem.
My son purchased a 2011 the same time as I did,basicaly same l/100 as me.
I drove a steady 70km for 80km and was able to get down to10.1 one a summer
drive .Today I drove 120km highway,my 16.8 has now dropped to 15.1./100.
You must have one hell of a tail wind every time hit the road.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
As i said to drivezki,I find figures that low impossible in my 2011 purchased new and even in Summer
I have never been able to manage those numbers,the car would be considerd run in now.
A mechanic at my Honda dealer removes his rear drive shaft to improve fuel consumption..
Wonder why he would do that if thesslow figures are possible,my car was checked out, and
tested,they said no fault found..tried cruse control once,it caused downsifts on slight inclines.
and higher fuel use..
 
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