Picked up the CR-V today from Friendship Honda in Boone, NC. Just a note, they're not trying to make friends as far as I'm concerned. The service writer assigned to me (Hollye) was very friendly and professional and tried to help as much as she could but I could tell her hands were tied by the dealership. I live 40 miles away and only have the Honda so I asked if they would give me a loaner car while they were working on mine. Nope. How about you pay for my rental. Nope. Free car wash once it's fixed. Nope. I ended up taking a 1/2 day off work today, rented a car, drove it 40 miles to the dealer and picked up my Honda.
Under Honda warranty, I believe they are only obligated to give you a loaner or issue a rental if they plan to have the vehicle for more then half a day (5+ hours specifically). Sounds like you might have been on the cusp of this limit, but a good dealer would give you the benefit of the doubt. Keep in mind though.. all warranty costs, including a vehicle loan or rental must be approved and paid to the dealer by Honda corporate.
My dealer offers free Lyft fares to home or work for any service call (within 20 miles), and will issue a rental for a warranty service that requires a stay over 5 hours.
On to the meat of the matter. I lied about the mileage. I actually had 836 miles on the car. Here's what the invoice says under Cause: Confirmed multiple MILs. Technicion scanned and retrieved multiple codes. 423505 Diagnosis trouble code/antilock brakes or traction C (whatever that means). (Trouble codes included: U0401-68, U0416-16, U0416-F8, P1659 and U0401-68.) Performed software update for EBB/EPS. Tested and checked battery (more on this later). They also updated a sticker in the owners manual about the emissions statement or something.
I advised ALL of the CELs came on, not just 5 of them. They said the rest were a "cascade effect".
The codes clearly point to a problem, and yes.. they are correct about the rest of the alarms being a cascade effect (which is not uncommon in these newer vehicles).
About the battery. They nicely included a slip of paper that must have been printed off of their battery tester. It says: Voltage 12.31V, Measured 570CCA, Raterd 410CCA, Temperature 89*F. The issue I have is that it also has a little icon with a line showing (I assume) the battery level. That points to something under 50% (although there aren't actual percentages showing).
The CCA readout is the most important.. as it gives clear indication of the health of your battery. A good test can also electronically test the resistance in the battery which should be very low and coresponds roughly with CCA as well. 570 readout on a 410 rated battery says the battery is essentially in new condition. Mine is going on 3 years old and still reads out 520 on my monthly test.
12.31 vdc is actually about 70% charged... some test units would report it at 60%. This is actually not that abnormal for a Honda. Why? The charging system has two modes.. a high charge and a low charge (which is actually a standby mode that bleeds some charge off the battery to save alternator load on the engine (for a bit of mpg). Depending on which mode the charging system was in when you turned off your vehicle, and for how long, you may see a fully charged battery, or one that is more like 70% charged. When you drive every day, this really does not matter as long as the battery is getting a full recharge every few days. But you should be aware of this, because at 70% charge.. the vehicle will full drain the remaining battery charge in about 20 days (average of 35ma normal parasitic drain when the vehicle is properly powered down and working normally).
If you do mostly short trips in town.. your battery will rarely be fully charged, and they need to reach full charge periodically, and never be allowed to fully discharge in order to get maximum life out of the battery. On a long drive, the end state charge when you turn off the vehicle depends on where it was in the cycling between high charge state (14.5v) and low charge state (12.4-12.5v).
Personally, I like to keep close tabs on my battery so I don't get surprised one day. So I do a monthly performance test for CCA, charging system performance, and charge state. I also keep my headlights on when I drive on short in town trips (which is most of my driving)... as this forces the charging system to the high state. I also throw a smart trickle charger on my battery once every month or two as well.. as this will perform a reconditioning cycle on the battery as well as top it up to full capacity.
This ends my speil about battery life and quality in Hondas.
Gald to hear your CRV is back on the road and appears to be operating normally.
