[BradW]

Hello all , First time poster here.
Original Issue:
Overheated due to head gasket leak

What I have done so far:
1.Added Blue Devil sealent

This fixed the leak. I let the CRV run for an hour solid and no issues. The next day, We drove it to work and it did not start. After towing home, the CRV gave me the dickens to get started. SPit and sputtered and finally ran. It was smooth and ran like a top. Turned the vehicle off and immediately tried to restart the CRV. It did not start. Just cranked and cranked and spit once or twice during a minutes time frame of cranking.

What I have tested:

1. I have fuel after the Fuel filter on the fire wall.
2. I have spark on all 4 plug wires.

I am at a loss on what to do. I have watched some videos and read some explanations on " CRV turns over but does not start" .

Before I just throw money at this , DO you fine folk have any thoughts or suggestions?

Thank you in advance ,
Brad

 

[crashcramer]

Well if you don’t want to throw money at it you might as will not fix it I’m afraid nothing is going to fix it for free. I’m not sure what the Blue devil treatment is I’ve not heard of that brand before but it sounds like it’s some sort of black seal or other additive of mystery chemicals in Magic. It has been my experience over 20 years of owning Hondas with aluminum heads and or aluminum engine blocks overheating doesn’t do them any favors. Case in point my brother overheated his civic,1988 model it required pulling the head checking the head doing the valve train and re-doing the head gasket because it had a warping effect on something in there and it ran after the repair and I’m not sure it ever ran at the proper temperature after that but it didn’t overheat again. It could be you were just as lucky but not knowing the particular situation ,what temperature outside it was, how long it was in the red if it ever made it to red,or just ran higher than normal and you pulled off the road and let the car cool with either the electric fan as cooling in accessory mode and no engine running or if it just had to cool off by mother nature it’s a little complicated situation there on how much possible damage on overheating the the car got. I had a similar crank and not start issue with my V two months ago before I redid the timing and assessory belts. My timing and assessors belts were called for due to maintenance and normal time frame not because anything broke. I too checked for spark I checked for fuel delivery I checked for air delivery and it just sat there and cranked. It had run for a while and just shutting it down it wouldn’t re-start? I even went so far as new New rotor new wires new plugs and a new from the junkyard OEM igniter from the same distributor. My friend and I checked the igniter circuitry per the service manual before going to the junkyard it tested bad. We put the new one in it still wouldn’t fire now off of the spark plug coil so back to the junkyard for a new to us but good looking and tested out condition because it’s Ohms, spark coil. That seemingly fixed the no start issue don’t know where we missed testing somewhere in there or something just gave up at the right time on the wrong day for us. I hope you figure out what Is happening for yours, the exhaust valves which are known to get out of gap proper gap that is after so many miles. something in the timing system to not want to allow fuel delivery at the right moment to explode in the chambers don’t know it’s scratching my head but you can do an inspection of the timing belt for free by taking the valve cover off and giving everything a visual look to make sure everybody in there is happy after the overheating because the camshafts are steel, the block is aluminum the head is aluminum you get a lot of temperature going on dissimilar metals they can get a little out somewhere in there it’s possible something isn’t just happy with the metallurgy in there.

 

[Lochinvar]

This happened to an old carbureted Toyota I have. If the head gasket is bad, the car is just going to be a PITA to start. Sorry to say.