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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi, I'm a new poster but not a new lurker :)

I've got a 98 EX w/ 250k miles. Been a real trooper.

I've got power door lock issues - they simply don't work. I've found various threads from other year models out here and followed them down all sorts of paths that seem to lead nowhere. I use the test patterns for the 02+ and short various connectors, I can make the passenger door locks lock/unlock using a short circuit. However, I get nothing on the drivers door. I bought a new actuator direct from the dealership (because the parts stores had no stock and the dealer did). No change. I did not install the actuator, just plugged it in to complete the circuit. I am NOT getting battery voltage at wire WHT/GRN or BLU. Thoughts? Is this wiring harness all encompassing or could it be somewhat easy to remove? I still haven't figured out how to get the rubber snake off the door and chassis to even take a stab at inspecting the wire harness!

Thanks!:D

Note: does anyone have the testing guide for the 1997-2001 models? That might help...
 

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Testing guide for CRV door locks.

Hi - I'm also working through some CRV (1997) door lock system issues.

I have a few pages on the locking system, -

Harness plug pin locations and functions, plus T-Shooting test points, meter readings, functions, and suggested likely fault items/locations.

Seems pretty complete (but I'm just starting) now.

I found them on the site here, can't exactly remember where, but have a search and if you can't find them, PM me and I can send them on to you.

H.

Good luck - I hope your fingers are smaller than mine, and your eyes are better.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I have the door off the car now, been testing the door wiring harness. Of the test manual i found ( looks like it was rigged for newer version but the wire colors are the same ) i cannot auto-lock the drivers door. I measured for resistance on the blue wires with the box and door off successfully -- the actuator is sending impedence (ie: closed loop) to the blue wire and out the door successfully. Either my control box is bad (likely) or a have break in the harness from the door to the interior (somewhat likely)

Oy.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
how about recommendations to purchase a new omron box for a 1998? part# 38380-S10-A02

I dont want to pay retail if it turns out not to work :(
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Another dead power door lock thread!

Hi, I've posted before and got myself some new dead ends. I still have busted power locks.

The switches and fob do nothing. I can manually lock all locks. The drivers lock got a little sticky once, but its freed up now. The passenger rear lock is difficult to move - not fixed. I have connected a new actutator to the circuit on the drivers door - no change. There don't appear to be any popped fuses anywhere. I was once worried about there being a broken wire in the door harness but I can't find any theories to support that. Is there any risk of there being a security bit thats not working any more? Could the control box for the FOBs be dead?
 
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