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Discussion Starter #1
My Honda is giving me grief lately. In the past couple months I had a new steering rack put in, exhaust repairs, and now my solenoid has gone out/ malfunctioned. Not long after I got it back from the steering rack repair I noticed some rough shifting and high RPMs. Then the D4 started flashing and the car wouldn't accelerate. That was right before Christmas and I haven't driven it since due to lack of funds for more repairs after the $750 for the steering. I finally put my code reader on it and got the code for the solenoid and P1298 for the ELD. I also have the code for the gas cap that never goes away, ever. I went ahead and ordered a new solenoid from Ebay but I can't find a ELD for my year. Is this something that is no longer available? Anyone know where to find one that will fit?
 

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For starters do a drain and fill of the AT fluid. You can use Valvoline MaxLife Dex\Merc atf available at Walmart for around $18/gal jug. Quite a few Honda CR-V and Ody owners prefer it to the Honda atf. I think one drain and fill takes around 3 qts. Or you can use the genuine Honda DW-1 (replaces the Honda Z-1) for around $8-$10qt. If the atf is real dark, not clear and smells burnt, you need to do at least two or up to 4 drain and fills with some driving in between each. Very easy to do and you don't have to jack it up. Check the sticky threads at the top of the Forum.

As for your ELD part, I suggest you call a Honda Dealer and get a part number for it. (possibly the same as later models)
I tried looking it up but most are for the 2001 and later. I don't know if they are different. Sometimes the wire harness containing those wires gets rubbed wrong and shorts out, possibly by the work you had done on it.

Gas cap code is sometimes caused by an air leak near the top of the gas tank filler tube.
Buffalo4
 

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If you can download a service manual for your 98 CRV, on page 11-141 it shows how to test that code. It sounds like it could be a bad ECM/PCM, a faulty ELD or a shorted or broken wire or loose connection. It lines out a test procedure.
One test was to clear the code, start the crv and turn the headlights on. If the code returns, you do the testing procedure. If the code stays off , then it is an intermittent problem and most likely worn wire insulation or a loose or poor connection at either the computer (ECM), or the ELD. There are vids on youtube that show how to replace the ELD on a 2001 +, I believe.
Buffalo4
 

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I think that on the earlier models, such as yours, Honda tried to make you change the whole fuse/relay box for an ELD replacement and later they came out with the ELD itself.
Look at some vids for possible clues.
So, I guess the major thing is to find out if the ELD they now sell for the 2001+ will work in your 1998.
Well, I've exhausted my searching for awhile.
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I thought I could go to the junk yard and try and find one but it turns out there aren't any C-rvs in the junk yards around me. I guess I could just buy one for the newer models and see. I've wasted $30 on worse things. When I checked the trans fluid it looked clean and red like it's supposed to be. I will get it changed anywho. Might as well. The battery had been totally dead from sitting for so long. The battery got disconnected when the solenoid was put in to make sure that code didn't come back up. And the P1298 code is still there.
 

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A weak battery or bad connections can cause all kinds of codes to be displayed.
Get a new battery or get the old one fully charged (if it is still good) check for clean and tight (snug) connections of the battery cables and the two main grounding (bonding) straps and see if the codes come back.
It is very easy to do a drain and fill of the atf on a CRV. You don't even have to jack it up.
Buffalo4
PS: reread post #4.
 
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