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Hey Guys, Thanks for looking! so you all suggested on my last thread about the compression test i performed for my 99 crv, to get my valves adjusted cause i have 170k miles and it was never done yet -_-. and it was said it should solve some compression issues.

Truth be told it solved many issues but now some new ones have arisen.

i have not redone a compression test to see the new values. but i probably will tomorrow.

the amount of power & acceleration has increased 3 fold. its sounds amazing and its like a little rocket ship.

anyway it flows better on the highway and in the street, it doesnt feel like the engine is braking itself anymore. and most definetly has smoother acceleration and lower revs at cruising speed. great!

but when at idle if you tap the throttle from inside the engine bay with ur finger just a tiny bit, it drops about 100-200 revs and hesitates as if its not getting gas and trys to stall out. but this only happens for 1/4th of a second. its very quick. if u give it a jolt of gas or rev smoothly it shows no hesistation or anything un-normal. still idles a little rough

another thing i noticed, i started the car, warmed it up for a minute before the dial even hit C, put it into drive and the revs dropped to right above 0 and then the engine caught itself from stalling and went back up to the idle range around 1100 rpms for the cold temp as it warms up.

my brother told me that i shouldnt havent done anything to the valves because the engine is "loose & worn" from its age and mileage. i had these valves done by a professional mechanic. when i returned to the mechanic immediately after we did the maintenence they said now that its able to give the power it wants to provide i might need to clean the throttle body with throttle body cleaner cause if its dirty it stops the initial rush of air from getting into the engine quick enough once i demand it.

i know nothing of these things. what do you guys think? any other things we need to maintain after this job is completed. i had the timing belt & water pump done 25k ago. thermostat round 10k ago, o2 sensors & cat & all new exhaust pipes about 6k ago. new synthetic oil change & new spark plugs 250 miles ago. valve cover job done 30k ago. multiple aftermarket engine & tranny mounts have been put in at different times. mechanic says car is healthy as can be for its age. driveshaft, brakes & the brake lines, rack and pinion, rebuilt transmission, all new struts, axles, control arms, & nice stereo system ALL DONE. this car is practically renovated back to factory conditions. whats next?

what and why would a valve adjustment throw it a little out of wack? any suggestions? im gunna clean the throttle body tomorrow and report back its status. hope it works! Screen Shot 2015-01-18 at 12.03.37 AM.jpg
 

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I had a similar issue both on my 2002 Honda Accord 4cyc and 1997 Honda CR-V. Pretty much your mechanic is right about the throttle body and makes a huge difference cleaning it. Doesn't take long overall. Under 10 minutes if all goes smoothly.

Get a spray can of CRC throttle body cleaner (from advance auto parts, autozone, or even walmart).

Watch this video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=41yFXjibtLY

Notes:
-The car will start rough the first time. Don't be surprise. If you have trouble starting the car, then crank the engine while pressing the gas pedal.
-If you have no idea how to open throttle under the hood and don't feel like using google, then ask a buddy to hold down the gas pedal (while engine is off of course) and get busy spraying and cleaning.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I did the throttle body cleaning. More or less I'm having the same issues. On my OBD app for my car that I read through the Bluetooth adapter... It says engine load 41% at idle around 727rpms and the engine vibrates alot.. When I smoothly accelerate the throttle from the engine bay from 1100-1 500 rims the engine load drops to 29% and all rough vibrations stop. Why would the load percentage drop at a higher acceleration. What is the purpose of the load sensor?
 

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It sounds like a lot of work was done already. Three things come to mind - 1) Has the timing been checked? 2) Is the MAF sensor clean and working correctly? 3) Is the IAC Valve working? (I think it is called the electronic air control on this vintage CRV)
 

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Distributor cap.
Rotor.
Spark plug wires.
Igniter in distributor (SSDevice that takes the place of points).
Ignition coil.
Fuel filter on firewall. (if clogged, it keeps the fuel pressure too low, esp at lower rpms and under load)
Idle Learn Procedure.
Can of injector cleaner ( Techron, SeaFoam, etc)
Timing belt jumped a tooth or is a tooth off.
Bad gasoline in tank.
IAC needs cleaning (pretty easy to do)
Spark plugs (NGK copper V-power plugs ,ZFR6F-11, seem to work the best on your yr CRV. If you put Bosch or Platinum ones in, that could well be the problem).
Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Distributor cap.
Rotor.
Spark plug wires.
Igniter in distributor (SSDevice that takes the place of points).
Ignition coil.
Fuel filter on firewall. (if clogged, it keeps the fuel pressure too low, esp at lower rpms and under load)
Idle Learn Procedure.
Can of injector cleaner ( Techron, SeaFoam, etc)
Timing belt jumped a tooth or is a tooth off.
Bad gasoline in tank.
IAC needs cleaning (pretty easy to do)
Spark plugs (NGK copper V-power plugs ,ZFR6F-11, seem to work the best on your yr CRV. If you put Bosch or Platinum ones in, that could well be the problem).
Buffalo4
All new spark plug cables, just changed fuel filter 2k ago.
I use lucas oil gas treatment every few fill ups. Just did throttle body cleaning. And now it really stalls out. When I turn the wheel and I'm warmed up and stationary the rpms drop dangerously low and then I stall out. I throw it into reverse I stall out. Driving down the block, proceed to de-celerate and when I come to a stop it attempts to stall out.... The mechanic thinks the valves are too tight but if we tightened them to factory specs does this just mean the engine can't handle it anymore and it needs to be loose to stay alive? I wanna send it to Honda so they do a proper valve adjustment....what u think?
 

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When you do a throttle body cleaning, the throttle plate usually will close more when the throttle is released and that can cause a super low idle speed. Do the 'idle learn procedure'. This should be done whenever you clean the throttle body and also whenever the battery is disconnected or changed. It is free and doesn't take long to do. Make sure you follow all the steps and don't be turning on any extra electrical items, such as the radio, dome light, etc. during the procedure. :eek:

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/19-maintenance-service/3766-idle-re-learn-procedure.html
Check posts 5 and 6 and more.

Do the idle learn procedure before you mess with the valves.

Valve clearance adj on your CRV is pretty easy, overall.
Valve clearances need to adjusted when the engine is cold, meaning don't drive it into the shop and then immediately do the adj. Usually the exhaust valve clearances are adj to their max recommended clearance setting because they get tighter as the valves and seats wear down due to the high temp gasses going by them.

Valves should always be adjusted to factory service manual specs.
If you do more searching on valve adj in this forum, you will get great info and pictures.

What brand and type spark plugs did you install?
Look at the inside of the distributor cap to check it and the rotor out.

Buffalo4
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Yeah funny story. I watched an ericthecarguy video about Honda idle issues and it's so stupid. The dumb mechanic never told me to unplug the battery so the computer could reset after the valve job. I fixed the stalling out now after doing that this morning & It's idles like normalish but I wanna get rid of the shaky idle. It has a shakier idle then it did before the job but coasts smoother and gives more power during acceleration. So Confused how one thing gets worse but the rest gets better. However they set the valves to the tighter end of the values. My intake was set to 0.006 and my exhaust was set to 0.008. The spark plugs I changed before the valve job and I didn't have an issue. They are the platinum NGK with that double laser technology stuff. They were 13 bucks a peice. Should I buy the $3 copper ones just to see? It kinda burns me inside if I don't have the most expensive best technology in the car.
 

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I had similiar issues on my Jeep. I cleaned the throttle body and idle air control valve. I replaced the mass air flow sensor too. All of that did the trick and I stopped having problems.
 

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Different vehicles have different procedures for the idle learn. The mechanic was probably not familiar with the Honda idle learn procedure, but could still be an excellent mechanic.
I may be wrong, but I think the exhaust valve lash on a 99 B20 engine is supposed to be between 0.006" and 0.008 ". If that is true, then your exhaust valves were set to the loosest setting ,0.008" ,which is preferable. Exhaust valve lash changes the most and they get tighter due to valve and seat wear.
The intake valve lash recommended is 0.004"-0.006" so that means that your intake valves were set to the loosest spec ( most would set the intake valve lash to the tighter setting 0.004" ) but they are still within specs. Intake valve lash usually gets a little looser due to normal wear of cam lobe, etc.

I would try the copper V-power plugs (very cheap and easy).
http://www.ebay.com/itm/SET-OF-4-NGK-4291-ZFR6F-11-V-POWER-PREMIUM-COPPER-SPARK-PLUGS-MADE-IN-JAPAN-/131161611066?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item1e89d75b3a&vxp=mtr
Just over $2 at Advanced Auto and other places + tax.
On some older carbureted vehicles, the platinum plugs didn't work as well. Not sure about the 99 CRV, but many swear by the copper V-power NGK.

Don't forget to look inside the distributor cap to visibly check its and the rotor condition.

Buffalo4
 
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