Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 47 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I scoured these forums for hours and couldn't find anything exactly like my problem, so here goes. The CRV died on the freeway 3 nights ago while doing about 70mph. No symptoms whatsoever leading up to this. The car has roughly 80k miles on it. The engine simply died, went off like a light switch. It was towed to the house and that is where it currently sits. It has not started since. There is no spark whatsoever at any of the wires. Fuel system is fine. I replaced the cap/rotor which were pretty well worn, they were still original. No help. I did resistance tests on the coil, tested perfect. I am thinking it must either be the ICM or the ignition switch. How do I test the ICM? I can find no specs for it anywhere, do I test resistance? Voltage? What should I expect to see if it is a healthy unit? I already checked, my CRV does not fall under the ignition switch recall, although I don't know how that can be the case. I may have to raise hell on this if it turns out to need a new one at 80k. Anyway, how can I eliminate the ICM as the source of my problem? Thanks!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #2
Also I should note that there are no engine codes whatsoever and never has there been, stored, pending, or otherwise.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
Anyway, how can I eliminate the ICM as the source of my problem?
Install a new one.

If your engine starts, then the igniter was the problem.

If you engine still doesn't start, you will have eliminated the igniter as being the problem.


:D
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
You probably think I'm being funny, but I'm not.

I keep igniters in my tool box for just such "tests" since there actually is no "good" test for an igniter.

Make sure that the distributor rotor is actually turning when the engine is cranking.

Make sure there is voltage at the ignition coil when the ignition switch is in the 'run' position.

The wire between the ignition coil and the igniter is prone to breakage with age, make sure that wire is intact.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Ok so I took your advice and replaced the igniter. No change. So at least I know that's not it. I'm going to order an ignition switch in about 30 minutes, unless you have another idea? Yes, the rotor turns just as it should. Everything cranks normally, fuel is normal, just no spark whatsoever. I didn't test voltage, as now I am working in the dark and have had enough punishment for one night. All of the wires were pliable and in good condition. This is also a California corrosion-free car. I would think that if the ignition switch were bad, I could at least get it to run intermittently when I mess with the key- has anyone heard of one of these cars dying and staying completely dead until the ignition switch was replaced?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
76 Posts
Did you check the ignition coil fuse? When ever something electrical stops abruptly, the power supply should always be the first check. With vehicles, you start with the fuses.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
256 Posts
I would think that if the ignition switch were bad, I could at least get it to run intermittently when I mess with the key- has anyone heard of one of these cars dying and staying completely dead until the ignition switch was replaced?
I've had two Hondas in 11 years where the switch wiring was so melted that the vehicle was dead in the water - neither were CR-Vs. Most often the symptom is a random stall that can be replicated by jiggling the key around, or start - stall concerns that can be kept running by keeping the ignition switch biased toward the 'CRANK' position. (separate ignition contacts for crank & run).

I have seen a number of people get fooled into thinking they have a no spark concern by attempting to ground a plug wire at the cylinder head cover, which is actually insulated from ground unless there is an operational ground strap fastened directly to the cover itself through a bolt that is directly threaded into the cover.

There is also a possibility (along with numerous other possibilities) of a bad pick-up in the distributor housing. The igniter will not provide coil saturation if it is not getting a signal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
karazy: The ignition coil fuse was the very first thing I checked, followed by any other fuses that would have even a remote chance of killing the car. Good call though, I should have mentioned that in my first post:)
Mook: I actually did ground my spark tester improperly the first time, just the way you said. I realized my mistake quickly though and still no spark. I performed the test in almost pitch darkness and saw not even a hint of spark whatsoever. Maybe I'll try it again just for kicks. I really hope to God that this is not a distributor problem still, now that I am like $90 into that thing. I'll be pretty bummed if I have to replace the entire unit.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I looked at all of the fuses/relays in the panel under the hood right away, don't remember seeing an ignition coil relay. I'll look again today.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Still not seeing any ignition coil relay. And I'm starting to have doubts about the ignition switch being the problem. Would I still have full power to all accessories/lights if the ignition switch was faulty? It seems like I would not.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
3,666 Posts
I don't know what relay you are looking at here....But there is not a coil relay in the fuse box or any where for that matter.


It is possible to get power to the accessories with a bad switch have the vehicle not stay running. I m not syaing the switch is the proble. But i am with mook in that it mat be something in the distributor.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Well I replaced the ignition switch, still no change. There is just no spark. I am really getting discouraged, I have no idea what to do next.
 

·
Everything in Moderation
Joined
·
8,194 Posts
Did you actually test (or replace) the Igniter---> Ignition Coil wire?

Could there be a short that is sucking the spark out of your ignition system?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
I didn't replace any of the wires between the coil and igniter, but I basically just checked them out visually and they are like brand new. The insulation and contact covers are still soft, pliable, and clean and show no signs of wear at all. What sort of tests should I perform at these wires? Should there be 12v~ present with the key on? And at which of the wires? I believe there are 3 prongs connected?
 
1 - 20 of 47 Posts
Top