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Discussion Starter #81
A few days ago I took the old front brake disks to the recyclers. 34 pounds of steel got me 34 cents. Why did I even bother?

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Last night I made the backlights on the steering wheel buttons brighter. In the process of doing that I had to disconnect the battery, and noticed the brand-new (April 2020) battery already had some corrosion on the positive post. It's a Champion-brand 51r battery that Dad got when the car wouldn't start one day and had to be towed in. (In retrospect, I should have told him to wait until I arrived home and I'd deal with it in the garage, saving them the tow and shop bills.) While I could not wiggle the connectors, they were not very tight. Honda sure knows how to make cheesy battery cable clamps (the steel bands).

Heck, while I'm here let's remove the j-hooks and hold-down bar and clean them with baking soda.

I also noted that the plastic box around the battery was installed in a position I thought was backwards (open side facing the engine). That oversight could not be allowed to continue so it was fixed before the battery was reconnected. I have no idea what purpose that box serves, but Honda put it there so it must serve some purpose, otherwise they wouldn't bother. (It may be to keep heat out, but exactly how much heat does a black plastic box repel?)
 

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Sounds like this is quite the challenge for you. It seems, though, that you're more than capable of surmounting them. Speaking from experience, the only sure thing about making any kind of repairs is that Murphy tried to do the same thing before you.

Will add my own $0.02 to your discussion, if it's not too late!

In 2015, I replaced all 4 OEM shocks with KYB's. Your new ride experience will tell you that they are worth the added expense. Here is my write-up: 2008 Brake/Suspension work

At that time, KYB did not have complete strut assemblies. If I had to do it all over again, I would still get KYB's, but I would get the completed assemblies.

I had a 1/2 inch impact wrench & all the hooks / bolts to compress the springs. All the while I was compressing each spring, a voice in the back of my mind kept repeating, "What if something slips / breaks?" In addition, if you don't mark your rear struts before dismantling them, you may reassemble them incorrectly, which I did with the first one. So, instead of doing 4 compressions, I ended up doing 5.

I now know of, and use, a DIY shop for OCs. It has a wall-mounted spring compressor. Still not sure that in the future I'd use that instead of buying a complete assembly.

Best of luck as you continue!
 

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A few days ago I took the old front brake disks to the recyclers. 34 pounds of steel got me 34 cents. Why did I even bother?

---

Last night I made the backlights on the steering wheel buttons brighter. In the process of doing that I had to disconnect the battery, and noticed the brand-new (April 2020) battery already had some corrosion on the positive post. It's a Champion-brand 51r battery that Dad got when the car wouldn't start one day and had to be towed in. (In retrospect, I should have told him to wait until I arrived home and I'd deal with it in the garage, saving them the tow and shop bills.) While I could not wiggle the connectors, they were not very tight. Honda sure knows how to make cheesy battery cable clamps (the steel bands).

Heck, while I'm here let's remove the j-hooks and hold-down bar and clean them with baking soda.

I also noted that the plastic box around the battery was installed in a position I thought was backwards (open side facing the engine). That oversight could not be allowed to continue so it was fixed before the battery was reconnected. I have no idea what purpose that box serves, but Honda put it there so it must serve some purpose, otherwise they wouldn't bother. (It may be to keep heat out, but exactly how much heat does a black plastic box repel?)
Thanks hugely for the pdf on the steering wheel button lights - just added that to my list!

On the battery posts, I now know that battery posts are no longer made to standard size. The positive post on my new 24F AGM battery is smaller than the one on the 51R was, so I had to get some of those lead post sleeves, as the positive clamp, all the way tight, was not tight enough. I hate that!

On the battery box, it's there as heat protection for the battery, considering how close it is to the engine in a very tightly packed engine compartment. So you did good. You might even consider adding one of those insulating pad sleeves they have for batteries now. Might not be as important in Montana, but it is here in Texas!
 

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Today I had to bite the bullet and order the 19, 17 and 10mm six-point wrenches from Amazon.
I bought a Milwaukee M18 1/2" impact last year and while starting work on the cars this years, realized that I didn't have a set of metric 1/2" impact sockets. The set of deep well 6-point sockets I got was highly reviewed and I think it was only $42, if that.

BTW, the stabilizer link will come with new nuts. I did not have to replace the two big bolts and nuts for the front struts. What I do, though, is clean up the exposed threads with a wire brush and then apply anti-seize (or even a dab of grease or oil) to the threads so they can be removed easier.
Fastenal charges about the same as the dealer for that hardware.
That's good to know, as I'm heading to the Acura dealer in about 30 minutes to order bolts and nuts for the TSX. The two bolts are a specific length, but I also wanted high-quality nuts to match. I had to search a couple of Hondas to find nuts that would fit the bolts, but I have a list now with Honda part numbers and can have my parts guy order them. The adjacent Honda dealer is the same owner, and their computer systems are all tied together, so I can actually order parts from either place.
At that time, KYB did not have complete strut assemblies. If I had to do it all over again, I would still get KYB's, but I would get the completed assemblies.
The complete KYB assemblies are a very recent product for the third gen CR-Vs. I tried buying these in 2018 but they were not yet available. (In fact, when I looked, all the sources were out of stock except for one of the front units.) I went with the Monroes. The struts are fine, but the hardware is junk--both of our fronts were rattling again. I replaced my front hardware with Moog but ended up replacing the fronts with complete KYB units. The other '09 still has the noisy Monroes--since I have the spares with the Moog hardware, I'm going to do a swap once I get the TSX done.

I think the KYBs have a slightly more compliant ride than the others--they are really nice over the road. Not that the Monroes had a bad ride, but they are slightly stiffer and more like the Honda struts I replaced.

Yeah, I would usually go for replacing struts in a 10 year old vehicle, but given the low mileage on the OP's CR-V, that might not be necessary yet. (I don't know if age affects the internals of a strut as much as usage does. Ours probably had 120k or more on them when I replaced them.)
 
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