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Discussion Starter #1
The title starts it.

Here is the detail

2 weeks ago I was driving and I felt a couple of shutters and then the engine shut off. Thought I might be out of gas so walked the 2 miles to the gas station (104 *f outside) and put 1 gallon of gas in it. Started my car and it started right up. Then I drove for about two blocks and it died at the stop. Turned the key and it started right up. Drove and each time I put on the break it tried to die. If I stopped it did die. Made it home doing this every quarter mile.
Turned "Lena" my CRV on again the next morning and it had a very hard time starting. As I turned the key harder it then started.
Rough idle and then built up and then the immobiliser key light started flashing (hasn't went off since).
Instead of going to its usual 700-800 rpms it jumped up to 1500-1900 rpm. Slowing rising and falling between them. Then when I drop it into gear it sounds fine.
I drove it down the street and at 30 mph which also happens to be at 2800 rpms it shutters and drops me back down to about 2200-2500. I can run at 29 mph and 2700 rpms and it drives.

I went to Auto Zone and had a reader put on it but the car won't let the reader get codes. I also had a load test done on the battery and alternator. Alternator had a couple diodes out so I replaced it.
The problem still persists.

Extra info-- The tank is full and the oil and filter have been changed. Alternator has been replaced and I unhooked the + and - of the battery for a night. Turned it on and still the same problem. I have driven it to school for two days this way... just limping along and annoying the whole world of cars around me.

Any help would be great. I've got school 3 times a week and it's usually 15 minutes away. Now it is 45.

Thank you in advance!
 

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Maintence lamp isn't an issue. If you search on here I'm positive there are threads about resetting it and no special tools are required.

I'm guessing a short someplace as you can't read the codes off the computer since the check engine lamp is on.

This is a stumper.
 

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Why can't you get the code pulled? Until you can you are just flailing in the dark...

We realize this. If we knew why he couldnt read the code, he would fix it so he could I'm sure.

Since he can't get read the code, it leads me to believe something maybe wrong with the ECU, immobilizer system or some bad wiring.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Why can't you get the code pulled? Until you can you are just flailing in the dark...
I am not sure. I have went to a Honda dealership, AutoZone, O'Reilly's, and used my reader. None of which were able to pull codes. I also paid the 85 dollars for diagnosis which was refunded to me because they are stumped.

I have decided tomorrow I will make it as simple as possible. I called my friend at O'Reilly's and he'll let me test it with a new battery and see if that works.

I read on a post on a different site that the case was simply the battery. His read good and so does mine but old is old.

I'll be back on after tomorrow morning. If the battery doesn't work I will go through each ground contact and clean them. Test after each one and checking the wires that go with that ground.

Thanks for the help and the suggestions.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Okay, so from my understanding, my ecu is bad. I just wish it wasn't so I was wondering if there is any other way of testing it with it being out of the car?

A dealer used a Honda Accord ecu which was known to be good and plugged it into my car and was able to pull codes. Mine would not pull codes and a lot of dash lights stopped working while some wouldn't stop flashing.

Anyone have an idea where I could get it tested or rebuilt or replaced?
 

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Second link doesn't go much of anywhere Honda4Life.

Those new ecu's are pricey....
 

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Wondering if his ECU/PCM got fried because the diodes on his previous alternator were bad...putting out AC voltage instead of DC...
 
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