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Discussion Starter #1
I haven't been very active on the forum, but I've come here often to research problems and what not. Thanks to all of you who do contribute to the body of knowledge! :Bow:

I first started coming here nine years ago when I bought a 1998 CR-V with 230,000 miles on the odo. Not knowing how reliable these cars are, I was hoping to get three, maybe four years out of it before it gave up. Nine years and 70,000 miles later, it finally happened. Oddly enough, it really wasn't a major problem that did it in. The water pump went bad and I decided to pay the price to get it replaced because the car was still running very well. Unfortunately, a couple bolts that really need to come out during this repair absolutely refused to cooperate. The shop tried everything they could, but in the end they snapped off one of the critical ones. They claim the only way they know to fix it involves dropping the engine to gain access to that area. That put the cost of repair higher than the value of the car, so sadly, I had to call time of death. :Darn:

All is not lost, however! I had handed this car off to my eldest child when she started driving and purchased a 2001 CR-V with "only" 155,000 miles on it (barely broken in!). When my younger child started driving, she got that and I purchased the 2009 CR-V that my father had purchased brand new. This one was next-to-new with only 25,000 miles on the odo as of March, 2016. The active CR-V count is going to stay at two, however, as I have purchased a Honda Pilot as my next vehicle. My eldest child is buying the 2009 CR-V from me and hopes to drive it for many years.

Just thought I'd share and say thanks for everyone's help over the years!

Big Bob
 

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:beerchug:

Keep the CR-Vs in the family.


Nice to hear that the Forum has helped folks, even if they only lurk. :sip:

Thanks for posting.

:applause:
 

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Glad you got such great service out of her. You make me feel guilty trading in our 2009 with only 150,000+- miles on it! What did you do with the 98 Honda?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Glad you got such great service out of her. You make me feel guilty trading in our 2009 with only 150,000+- miles on it! What did you do with the 98 Honda?
One of the reasons I end up with high-mileage vehicles is that the requirements for the vehicle I drive don't demand an ultra-reliable newer vehicle. I tend to stick with buying cheaper units hoping to get a few years out of them before they croak. This one just went way above and beyond the call of duty! :bananawrench: Now if you wanna' talk about the car that Momma drives...:auto:

I did step it up a bit on the Pilot I just purchased. This one is only 10 years old with 139K miles, so it should last me another 10 years easy!

At this point I'm trying to figure out how to get the most $'s out of it. I have called a few scrap yards and nobody is interested because of the age and condition (I live in the heart of the rust belt, so the body is "less than pristine"). The local recycling place will give me about $250 for it and so far that's my best offer. I've debated about throwing it out on Craigslist, but I'm thinking nobody would give me much more than what the recycling center would. Over the years I acquired another set of rims and tires for it, so I can save the best tires for my 2001. I also recently put on a set of struts because one of the springs had broke, so I think I'm going to pull those off and save them for when the '01 needs new ones. I also grabbed the little table out of the back and will throw that in our camper for use when we are camping.

My daughter was kind of sad to say goodbye. She had grown pretty fond of that car.
 

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The local recycling place will give me about $250 for it and so far that's my best offer.
Point of reference: My daughter looked into trade-in value on her '07 Fit. Edmonds only quoted $900 - $1600! :wall:
 

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I’ve sunk the last big money into my 05 Pilot. Rust will be the most likely killer after 13 New England winters
 

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I am never afraid of honda with high mileage or needing repairs if body/sub frames and interior are still in good shape. Thankfully most see miles and sell cheap. Paid $400 for an 05 accord with 174k (motor bad). Bought a motor and replaced myself. Fixed a few other little things, going up for sale after I finish detailing it.

My V has 211k in it now, runs and drives great (fixed some minor stuff), body and interior are perfect so engine I took out of accord Im rebuilding as a replacement for my V (which ill rebuild its current engine). Probably look for a core transmission to rebuild as a spare for it as well.

Wont get rid of my hondas until body/sub frames are rusted out, if that ever happens as much as I keep the salt washed off.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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I am never afraid of honda with high mileage or needing repairs if body/sub frames and interior are still in good shape. Thankfully most see miles and sell cheap. Paid $400 for an 05 accord with 174k (motor bad). Bought a motor and replaced myself. Fixed a few other little things, going up for sale after I finish detailing it.

My V has 211k in it now, runs and drives great (fixed some minor stuff), body and interior are perfect so engine I took out of accord Im rebuilding as a replacement for my V (which ill rebuild its current engine). Probably look for a core transmission to rebuild as a spare for it as well.

Wont get rid of my hondas until body/sub frames are rusted out, if that ever happens as much as I keep the salt washed off.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I agree. My 99 has 233k miles on it now and still runs decent. Had some of the basic and critical maintenance to do on it when I bought it. Other than some surface rust on the rear door and clear coat peeled off the hood and from fenders, everything else is solid.
Actually this is one of the highest mileage cars I have ever owned and quite impressed.
Jdm engines and transmissions are out there and reasonably priced if you ever have to replace them.
Makes me wonder what bolts they snapped off that they can't remove.
 

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I've also seen more than a few ultra travel high mileage Crv's with engines that still seem to drive like new.

These 1st gen Crv's are possibly the last of the breed, ultra reliable and cheap to maintain B20 engines, how do the Gen 2 and 3 compare in that regard?
 

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Since I made my purchase of a 2001 CR-V EX in 2004, I've been happy with every mile it's given me. It had 104K when purchased, now currently daily running at 148k. Simple minor repairs to refresh the 17 year old car. Just recently had it's first tow a month ago when the distributor died out on the highway. I've put another $500 in parts and labor to replace the distributor, front exhaust pipe, and catalytic converter. I've vowed this CR-V is a keeper, if the engine goes, I will replace the engine to get another 200k miles. I agree, it is the last of it's breed. I'd rather drive the first gen, then to deal with electronic issues of the newer models. Everything is great when they're mechanical then to spend $$$ on diagnosing electronic issues. Hope you find another first gen gem, I'm still looking for a 5-speed manual first gen.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Makes me wonder what bolts they snapped off that they can't remove.
I don't know exactly which bolt snapped, but I believe it was one of the bolts that held the timing belt tension pulley in place. They claimed that the location made it impossible to do a normal snapped bolt removal with the engine in the car. I begged them to come up with some kind of hack, including cutting out a section of the inner fender if necessary, but with the rusty condition of the car they didn't dare weaken the structure of the vehicle by cutting out a section of the inner fender. They also didn't feel they had any other hack that would allow it to go back together properly.

I plan on getting the car home tomorrow to remove a few items I can save for use on my '01. Maybe when I get a chance to look it over good I can possibly come up with a hack that is acceptable to me. I do understand that a reputable business has to be a bit careful about applying hacks because it could come back to haunt them, but me applying a hack for myself might just be acceptable...
 

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Hope you find another first gen gem, I'm still looking for a 5-speed manual first gen.
Some time ago I had decided that when it came time to buy another vehicle, I was going to get something bigger. I am very tall, so the CR-V's are really just a bit small, but I made it work because the cost/value ratio was so good. I almost went back on that decision when I saw a local Craigslist posting for an 01 with only 136K miles with an asking price of $3250. I was torn between this deal and my decision to get a bigger vehicle and put off calling for a day. That was too long as the post was gone the next day. Oh well... Now I've got an '08 Pilot and that's OK too. :whistle:
 

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Makes me wonder what bolts they snapped off that they can't remove.
I don't know exactly which bolt snapped, but I believe it was one of the bolts that held the timing belt tension pulley in place. They claimed that the location made it impossible to do a normal snapped bolt removal with the engine in the car. I begged them to come up with some kind of hack, including cutting out a section of the inner fender if necessary, but with the rusty condition of the car they didn't dare weaken the structure of the vehicle by cutting out a section of the inner fender. They also didn't feel they had any other hack that would allow it to go back together properly.

I plan on getting the car home tomorrow to remove a few items I can save for use on my '01. Maybe when I get a chance to look it over good I can possibly come up with a hack that is acceptable to me. I do understand that a reputable business has to be a bit careful about applying hacks because it could come back to haunt them, but me applying a hack for myself might just be acceptable...
Not familiar with the materials with these engines but are the blocks aluminum or cast iron?
 

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Surprising that drilling out the old bolt, adding a helicoil or tapping the hole for a new bolt isn’t physically possible.
If a wrench and hand can get in there, would then a drill with 90 degree bit can as well
 

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Discussion Starter #15
I believe the engine block is aluminum based on a comment from my mechanic, but I really don't know for sure.

I have the car at home right now, so I went out and took a few pics showing just how little room there is to work in there. I believe they could have removed a few items up top, but the inner fender would still have been in the way and I just don't think there is enough room in there to work on removing a snapped off bolt unless you really had some magic fingers. I added the tape measure to show just how little room there is. The last shot was taken with the camera right down next to the engine.
crv1.jpg
crv2.jpg
crv3.jpg

When they called me with the bad news I was also a bit skeptical of the fact that they couldn't get at that snapped bolt, but after looking for myself, I now believe they were correct. I know I couldn't do it!
 

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Oh boy.....that’s tight...
Having gotten lucky on another 250k vehicle that needed a new EGR, and had one bolt stuck for 24 hours before I got lucky I feel your pain.
There’s no way to improve things beyond removing a bunch of parts that you’d have to replace just increasing cost further.
Sad to say goodbye...
 

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If that is an aluminum block, you can wedge a cut water bottle in there and use silicone to seal the edge against the block. Let it dry, cut a hole in the top of the bottle and pour some alum and water in it. The broken stud will be dissolved in a day and threads will be perfectly intact but you have to be sure the block is aluminum.
 
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