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Discussion Starter #1
Hello everyone, I want to change the coolant fluid on my 05 CRV. I have read just to drain and refill again. no flushing with water or anything else because that would stay in the engine block, etc.

So, have anybody just drain it and refill it for that reasoning, any suggestions ????

it is time to change it, 112,000 miles on the vehicle
 

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They recommend 5yrs or 60K. Check the owners manual.

Actually here is a pic I took for the back of the Honda coolant jug for another thread on this forum about coolant flushing. May want to search for it.



Its easy to do and there is videos on youtube. Just make sure to bleed the system of air.
 

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They recommend 5yrs or 60K. Check the owners manual.
Just curious, where does Honda actually say this?

Historically, Honda's coolant intervals have been betwen 105,000 to 120,000 miles. For example, if you look at the maintenance intervals for a 2006 CR-V (last year before the maintenance minder), it states:

 

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Discussion Starter #4
I am clear of the timing. Just wondering if anybody does the flushing or just drain and refill
 

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I just did the drain & fill. Easy-Peasy.


Because you don't replace all the coolant, the D&F interval drops to 1/2 the initial recommendation after that. So, that's where the 5 years/60K miles comes from.


ATF works the same way. The first D&F interval is at a certain mileage (60K in pre-MM days) and 30K after that.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I just did the drain & fill. Easy-Peasy.


Because you don't replace all the coolant, the D&F interval drops to 1/2 the initial recommendation after that. So, that's where the 5 years/60K miles comes from.


ATF works the same way. The first D&F interval is at a certain mileage (60K in pre-MM days) and 30K after that.
THAT MAKES SENSE.

yeah i have the real mechanic from honda and just mentions the drain and fill no flushing. But probably you are right that they cut the timing
 

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The old green coolants were only good for 2-3 years. The new Organic Acid based coolant (which type 2 is) are good for approx. 5 years. Some manufacturers that use OAT coolants claim 100k, but would probably be most effective if that 100k was rack up within the 5 year span. Not exact information, but a good generalization.
 

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Get 2 gallon of the coolant and drain it from the radiator and from the block. There is a nipple behind the block near the oil filter. That should get rid of most of the coolant. Fill it up with 2 gallons of DI water and then flush it again after it cools and add type 2 coolant, the blue stuff :). enjoy the car for another 10 years

I just got my car last week and I am planning to do a complete flush of the green stuff. Looks like the coolant and themostat was never changed, nor was the water pump.
 

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It's as simple as it sounds. I'm not certain if all models have the nipple referenced above, but even if it exists the service manual does not mention it and I've seen a few posts saying it was difficult to open or close back up. I say forget the nipple and just drain.

What threw me off was that despite filling slowly to allow as much air to escape as possible, followed by "burping" at fast idle with the cap loose and heater temp on hot, my fans would not come on. My temperature gauge read normal, but the fans would not come on at idle like I remembered. It took several days of driving before things came back to normal. From what I understand this is somewhat common due to the design of the system and it can take a while for all of the air to work its way out, and there is no cause for alarm.

So yeah, just drain and fill, no flushing no mixing.
 

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What threw me off was that despite filling slowly to allow as much air to escape as possible, followed by "burping" at fast idle with the cap loose and heater temp on hot, my fans would not come on. My temperature gauge read normal, but the fans would not come on at idle like I remembered.
This is because of Honda's reverse-flow cooling system.

I ran into the same issue at a coolant change. After re-filling, the fans would not come back on despite 30 minutes of idling. It was because of an air pocket.


The fix is to run the engine with the rad cap loose for 15 minutes, filling the rad as required.

Then, shut the engine off. Let the engine heat-soak for 15 minutes, this will open the thermostat and the air will 'burp' out so that you can add more coolant.

It is still prudent to monitor the coolant level for the next five or six drive cycles. And, do some high RPMs to get the coolant flow going. This will also help purge the air.
 

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I am still in the process of purging my coolant. I also did a new water pump and will be doing a new thermo state. Right now it is just straight DI water with some type 2 coolant. The coolant came out greenish brown for the first few flush. Mind you the car does have 210k on it. The person before me didn't a good job at keeping up with the fluids.
 
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