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Discussion Starter #1
2006 CR-V. I will be replacing the ABS/VSA module with a used one. I understand that after installation and bleeding, a high-level scan tool is supposed to be used to recalibrate or "initialize" the module, including "adjusting" some sensors with the scan tool. I have a scan tool, but not dealer level like that or Honda HDS.

My question is: Why doesn't the Honda Factory Service Manual mention anything about this? I've looked it over several times and it mentions nothing about this, other than some type of "memorization" procedure, which didn't appear to require a high level scan tool.

I saw a video (One Main Auto - Eric. O.) with a CR-V and Eric used a high level scan tool to adjust the sensors after replacing the ABS/VSA module, but it literally took one minute. Nothing else done. I contacted an automotive repair facility and they said recalibration and adjustment takes 1.5 - 2 hours and would cost me $185 to $225. Does this sound right?

Lastly, if it does require this initialization (or whatever it's called) can the Honda HDS system used in conjunction with a HIM device do the trick?
 

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I checked my 06 CRV with an Autel MS908 regarding this. The memorization procedure for the sensors don't take long at all. After getting into the menu for it, the procedure takes less than 5 seconds to complete. The adjusted sensors are the steering angle sensor, brake pressure sensor, and lateral G sensor.

The Honda HDS program along with HIM can do the same thing. But it doesn't have the "modulator bleed" function for forcing brake fluid into the VSA modulator like it does on my scan tool. Eric O used a pressure brake bleeder instead of this function on his scan tool. That method is faster for bleeding and pushing old brake fluid out of all four calipers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I checked my 06 CRV with an Autel MS908 regarding this. The memorization procedure for the sensors don't take long at all. After getting into the menu for it, the procedure takes less than 5 seconds to complete. The adjusted sensors are the steering angle sensor, brake pressure sensor, and lateral G sensor.

The Honda HDS program along with HIM can do the same thing. But it doesn't have the "modulator bleed" function for forcing brake fluid into the VSA modulator like it does on my scan tool. Eric O used a pressure brake bleeder instead of this function on his scan tool. That method is faster for bleeding and pushing old brake fluid out of all four calipers.
Thanks so much for responding! So the only "initialization" or "calibration" or "sensor adjusting" is the thing Eric O. did in his video which was less than a minute, same as what you're saying you did? That must be why the Honda FSM doesn't mention anything else, like a calibration. Why is this shop in Austin, TX telling me it takes 1.5 to 2 hours? Maybe they're thinking of other applications. I'll have to look again at the FSM, but it mentions a "memorization" procedure using the HDS, but it says that all the HDS does is short out some connectors (not sure if it does more). I'm wondering if the connectors can be shorted out manually? The Honda HDS w/ HIM device can be had for about $100 online for a cloned device, so I might do that as it's cheaper than what the shop wants.

Right, Eric O. does use a pressure bleeder, but I don't have that and don't mind using a hose put into a bottle with fluid in it and just doing it at each wheel manually. The Honda FSM says that it's OK to do that, in fact it's the only way it shows to do it.

Lastly, when I replace the ABS/VSA module and bleed the system, can I still drive the car if I wind up having to take it somewhere to get the memorization/adjustment done? If not, then I pretty much have to get the Honda HDS with HIM device to work with my old Window XP laptop.
 

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The whole "initialization" and "calibration" and "sensor adjusting" are the same thing. Yes, I did the scan tool function for learning the sensor memorizations (same thing), and it took the scan tool 3 seconds to finish. That's without changing the ABS module and, of course, the different sensors and solenoids inside. I don't believe there is a big time difference though.

I also bought a cloned Honda HIM device for the same price IIRC ($100). I didn't perform the procedure with it, but I believe it takes a similar amount of time.

You can bleed the brakes manually, but it will take a very long time to do so. And you will need an assistant to help you open and close the caliper bleed screws while you or the assistant pushes and releases the brake pedal. In the video Eric O. was able to depress the brake pedal and not worry about introducing air back into the system because of the forced air pushing the brake fluid from the top of the master cylinder reservoir and out of the calipers. If you have access to an air compressor, you can do this job yourself using a pneumatic brake bleeder. If you choose to do this, be sure to do your own research on which tool to pick. This method is easier and (probably) faster than doing it manually.

You can still drive the car after you manage to bleed all the air out but haven't performed the memorization procedure yet. The ABS pump will be disabled, so drive at your own caution.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The whole "initialization" and "calibration" and "sensor adjusting" are the same thing. Yes, I did the scan tool function for learning the sensor memorizations (same thing), and it took the scan tool 3 seconds to finish. That's without changing the ABS module and, of course, the different sensors and solenoids inside. I don't believe there is a big time difference though.

I also bought a cloned Honda HIM device for the same price IIRC ($100). I didn't perform the procedure with it, but I believe it takes a similar amount of time.

You can bleed the brakes manually, but it will take a very long time to do so. And you will need an assistant to help you open and close the caliper bleed screws while you or the assistant pushes and releases the brake pedal. In the video Eric O. was able to depress the brake pedal and not worry about introducing air back into the system because of the forced air pushing the brake fluid from the top of the master cylinder reservoir and out of the calipers. If you have access to an air compressor, you can do this job yourself using a pneumatic brake bleeder. If you choose to do this, be sure to do your own research on which tool to pick. This method is easier and (probably) faster than doing it manually.

You can still drive the car after you manage to bleed all the air out but haven't performed the memorization procedure yet. The ABS pump will be disabled, so drive at your own caution.
Great info; thanks for clarifying that:

1. The initialization/calibration/memorization/sensor adjusting is all the same thing.
2. I can still drive the vehicle after bleeding even without the memorization procedure performed.
3. The Honda HDS w/HIM device clone will do that procedure.

I actually do have a penumatic brake bleeder (the exact same one you put in the link) but I was unhappy with its performance with my other cars. It would never give me a clear stream of fluid through the clear tube coming out the bleeder screw (which means there's air in there, right?). Unless the air was introduced right out the bleeder nipple as it goes into the tube if the tube that comes with it doesn't fit snugly on the bleeder screw nipple causing air to go into the tube? My air compressor is 32 gallons, so that shouldn't be the problem, but I noticed the penumatic bleeder was causing the compressor to run constantly. I switched to using a clear vinyl tube submerged in fluid in a sealed container (clear bottle with a hole in the cap through which the tube is inserted) and went and pushed the brakes myself and was able to get a clear stream in short order. Maybe I'm misunderstanding how the pneumatic bleeder works?

This is my daughter's car, and I'm used to regular, non-ABS brakes anyway since I've never owned a car with ABS, so driving it before the memorization shouldn't be an issue.

Also, I noticed you mentioned the same memorization/adjustment that Eric. O. mentioned (steering angle, lateral G, and pressure sensor) but the Honda FSM only mentions "VSA Sensor Neutral Position Memorization" using the HDS/HIM. It doesn't mention anything about any other memorization for lateral G, steering angle, or pressure sensor, unless the VSA sensor neutral position memorization is indeed all of those things?

I guess if I don't want to bother with buying and waiting for delivery for an HDS w/ HIM device, I could find another shop that will agree that it only takes a minute to do the job. I don't know if you do auto repair for a living, or not, but if you do, what would you charge to do the memorization for a customer who brought in the car after replacing the module himself? $185 - $225 seems like a crazy high price to pay for something that would only take the shop a few minutes to do.
 

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I never quite understood how to tell when those pneumatic bleeders were done getting the air out. I used two different models (one was Matco brand and idk the other one), and they both appeared to have air and barely any fluid coming through the clear hose I put on the bleeder screws. They fit snugly on the fittings too, so air was definitely not entering from the outside. And honestly, I just left it on each caliper screw for 5 minutes or so whenever I replaced brake calipers. I've never replaced ABS modules before, so I don't know how long it would take to get all the air out.

The steering angle, lateral G, and pressure sensors are what both the scan tool and Honda HIM say what will be adjusted. This year model CRV doesn't actually have the steering angle and lateral G sensors, only the pressure sensor. And from my understanding, only the pressure sensor inside the ABS module is calibrated, so don't worry so much about it.

Before I had my scan tool, I took an 08 GMC Envoy to an auto shop to get the new throttle body relearn procedure done. They took their big Snap On tablet and did the relearn in 4 minutes, charging me $60 for it. It seemed an OK deal at the time for a few minutes of "labor." I would try to find a shop or an independent mechanic that would charge a reasonable amount.

Edit: I may be mistaken about the pneumatic bleeder being faster than the two person method for bleeding brakes. If you have a good rhythm down, you can do it more quickly than using the pneumatic tool.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I never quite understood how to tell when those pneumatic bleeders were done getting the air out. I used two different models (one was Matco brand and idk the other one), and they both appeared to have air and barely any fluid coming through the clear hose I put on the bleeder screws. They fit snugly on the fittings too, so air was definitely not entering from the outside. And honestly, I just left it on each caliper screw for 5 minutes or so whenever I replaced brake calipers. I've never replaced ABS modules before, so I don't know how long it would take to get all the air out.

The steering angle, lateral G, and pressure sensors are what both the scan tool and Honda HIM say what will be adjusted. This year model CRV doesn't actually have the steering angle and lateral G sensors, only the pressure sensor. And from my understanding, only the pressure sensor inside the ABS module is calibrated, so don't worry so much about it.

Before I had my scan tool, I took an 08 GMC Envoy to an auto shop to get the new throttle body relearn procedure done. They took their big Snap On tablet and did the relearn in 4 minutes, charging me $60 for it. It seemed an OK deal at the time for a few minutes of "labor." I would try to find a shop or an independent mechanic that would charge a reasonable amount.
Again, great info and thank you for responding. $60 sounds more reasonable. Do you mean that even though both pneumatic bleeders you used seemed to allow air bubbles through, that you still used it (about 5 minutes at each caliper) and when you were done the brakes were firm? If so, perhaps I'll give it another try. It would be really cool to have the high-level scanner device so that I could bleed the ABS module while bleeding the standard brakes and just do the memorization/calibration myself, but based on the model you mentioned, it looks to be around $1000 to $2500, which I can't afford.

The FSM for this 2006 does say that it has a steering angle sensor. No mention of it being adjusted, though, other than the memorization which I mentioned in my previous post. In any event, I think you're saying that everything is included when the adustment/memorization/calibration is done.

I'll let you know how it goes. I'm still buttoning up the interior from the replacement of two airbags I've just done, and probably won't get to the ABS module until next week(end). I appreciate you trying to help me.
 

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Great info; thanks for clarifying that:

1. The initialization/calibration/memorization/sensor adjusting is all the same thing.
2. I can still drive the vehicle after bleeding even without the memorization procedure performed.
3. The Honda HDS w/HIM device clone will do that procedure.

I actually do have a penumatic brake bleeder (the exact same one you put in the link) but I was unhappy with its performance with my other cars. It would never give me a clear stream of fluid through the clear tube coming out the bleeder screw (which means there's air in there, right?). Unless the air was introduced right out the bleeder nipple as it goes into the tube if the tube that comes with it doesn't fit snugly on the bleeder screw nipple causing air to go into the tube? My air compressor is 32 gallons, so that shouldn't be the problem, but I noticed the penumatic bleeder was causing the compressor to run constantly. I switched to using a clear vinyl tube submerged in fluid in a sealed container (clear bottle with a hole in the cap through which the tube is inserted) and went and pushed the brakes myself and was able to get a clear stream in short order. Maybe I'm misunderstanding how the pneumatic bleeder works?

This is my daughter's car, and I'm used to regular, non-ABS brakes anyway since I've never owned a car with ABS, so driving it before the memorization shouldn't be an issue.

Also, I noticed you mentioned the same memorization/adjustment that Eric. O. mentioned (steering angle, lateral G, and pressure sensor) but the Honda FSM only mentions "VSA Sensor Neutral Position Memorization" using the HDS/HIM. It doesn't mention anything about any other memorization for lateral G, steering angle, or pressure sensor, unless the VSA sensor neutral position memorization is indeed all of those things?

I guess if I don't want to bother with buying and waiting for delivery for an HDS w/ HIM device, I could find another shop that will agree that it only takes a minute to do the job. I don't know if you do auto repair for a living, or not, but if you do, what would you charge to do the memorization for a customer who brought in the car after replacing the module himself? $185 - $225 seems like a crazy high price to pay for something that would only take the shop a few minutes to do.
Maybe the other member will let you use his??
 
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