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Discussion Starter #1
Greetings!

I did a search but couldn't find what I'm looking for. I'd like to modify at least one of the power sockets so that it stays hot all the time. I don't want to run any new wires or use a jumper at the fuse. I was able to do this on my Toyota truck by modifying the relay so that it doesn't open and close with the ignition. I'd like to do something similar with the V, but I don't know which relay controls the outlets. (or is there one for each outlet?) A wiring schematic would be helpful but I can't find that online either.

Has anyone tried this, or can anyone point me to the correct relay? Thanks!
 

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I can't be the only one that ever thought of doing this....anyone???
Find the fuse for the outlet you want always on and remove it. Use an inline fuse holder with pigtails and blade connectors for the same fuse type attaching one end to a tap for always on power at the fuse box. Put the other end on the output where the fuse you removed was located and put the fuse you removed in the new inline holder. If you ever want to put it back to stock just remove the pigtail and insert the fuse back in the original location.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Find the fuse for the outlet you want always on and remove it. Use an inline fuse holder with pigtails and blade connectors for the same fuse type attaching one end to a tap for always on power at the fuse box. Put the other end on the output where the fuse you removed was located and put the fuse you removed in the new inline holder. If you ever want to put it back to stock just remove the pigtail and insert the fuse back in the original location.
Thanks Gravy, but I'd really rather just find the relay and modify it. In looking, there are a couple of relays above the interior fuse box and several in the fuxe box under the hood. If anyone has an electrical diagram that shows what each relay is for, that would be EXTREMELY helpful...anyone??
 

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there isnt a relay. If you want to do it, you need to run a new wire to constant and fuse it. Please use the same size fuse as in the box though. If you need to know what wire to grap constant at in the steering column, I can let you know.
 

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Thanks Gravy, but I'd really rather just find the relay and modify it. In looking, there are a couple of relays above the interior fuse box and several in the fuxe box under the hood. If anyone has an electrical diagram that shows what each relay is for, that would be EXTREMELY helpful...anyone??
You can do what you want. Check back later. I am working on a detailed answer.
 

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The following should apply to 2007 - 2010 US and Canada. Others possible.

If you use a jumper at the under dash fuse box as I previously posted it would have to be done at fuse #34 (7.5A) which would make all accessory sockets hot all the time along with the radio and bluetooth module if equipped.

Obviously jumpering at the relay would be a better solution.

There are three relays mounted together behind the dash near the lower right corner of the gauge cluster and to the left of the radio. I have no idea of the best way to gain access. My guess if you can't get to it from underneath would be to remove the radio.

If you only want to make a socket hot all the time (One, two, or all three) remove the relay for that socket and make a short jumper with blade connectors to connect two terminals for each socket you want hot all the time.

If I was to do this for myself I think I would get fancy and instead of removing the relays leave them in place and tap in a switch with an LED to control the circuit. This way you can make each socket hot on demand only when needed with the LED indicating when it is hot. This would be accomplished by removing the white wire from terminal 4 making sure to tape the wire then taking power from terminal 2 to the switch and LED then back to terminal 4. This way you can use a low power switch. Doing it like the jumper method below would require a heavy duty switch that can handle the full circuit load.

The jumper method. Make sure you use proper wire gauge.

Each relay has four terminals. Terminal 4 has a white wire which comes from fuse #34 (7.5A) and is hot when the key is on. Terminal 3 has a black wire and is the ground. Ignore these two wires on each relay.

You want to jumper or run your switch between terminal 1 and 2 on the relay(s) you want to remove.

Front accessory power outlet - be careful with this one as it has two different white wires to it. You want terminal 2 white and terminal 1 orange.

Console accessory power outlet - You want terminal 2 red and terminal 1 green.

Cargo area accessory power outlet - You want terminal 2 light blue and terminal 1 yellow.


EDIT - Add the following info.

I would remove the fuses for the accessory power outlets while working on this as they are always hot and you don't want to blow them.

Fuse #29 (15A) white to relay front APO.

Fuse #31 (15A) red to relay console APO.

Fuse #28 (15A) pink and changes to light blue to relay cargo area APO.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks Gravy and Lizzurd! This is what I was looking for and it gives me a couple of options. Of course, now the key is finding the time to do it. I'll report back once I'm done. Thanks again guys, you're the best!
 

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Did you ever get this working? I had thought about trying to do something like this myself
 

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Well, I finally had some time this morning and I did it. I probably should have taken pics to post, but it was really easy thanks to the earlier posts by Gravy and Lizzurd on the subject. I'll post step by step instructions for anyone who wants to try it. I only did the front one, but you could do any or all of them depending on your needs.

The 3 relays are located under the dash, directly above the right side of the brake pedal. The only thing I had to remove to gain access was the small door that swings down that has the fuse diagram on it. (What's the purpose of that door anyway, and what are the white, folded mat like things that are attached to it?? I guess that's a whole new subject!)

Once I located the relays, I pulled the #29 fuse just to be on the safe side.

The relay assembly is attached to a crossmember but it slides right off for easier access. Again, using the info that Lizzurd and Gravy posted I determined the correct relay for the front power socket and removed it. There are 4 spade connectors on the relay, two wide (standard size) ones and two narrower ones. The wide ones are the ones that you want to jump. I used a scrap piece of 14 gauge wire and two standard spade connectors to make my jumper and plugged it in where the two widest spades of the relay were. (the ones that connect to the orange and plain white wires)

I then replaced the fuse and checked the outlet with a tester and lo and behold, it worked! I then slid the relay assembly back onto its mounting base, replaced the small door and I was done. Took a total of about 15 minutes.

Thanks again to Lizzurd for the diagram and to Gravy for the write up!
 

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the door is the access panel to the fuse box. Congrats on the job well done. I can see how this would be a very good mod for anyone with a first gen for the rear plug.
 

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the door is the access panel to the fuse box. Congrats on the job well done. I can see how this would be a very good mod for anyone with a first gen for the rear plug.
not sure where relay for 1st gen is located - but know for sure the relays for the 2nd gen are located different from the gen 3 - gen 2 rear relay is behind the glove box, front relay is under dash on driver side.
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
the door is the access panel to the fuse box.
The problem is that this door is nowhere near the fuse box, it's just there. It swings down and slides right off, but there's nothing behind it. I know it's got nothing to do with this thread, but i was just curious what the purpose of it is.


I was looking around the site and found another post about this mystery door...

http://www.crvownersclub.com/forums/showthread.php?t=10354
 

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Great thread. I plan to use this as a guide next weekend.

Just as an aside, what is the point in manufacturers putting these sockets on a relay in the first place?
 

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Great thread. I plan to use this as a guide next weekend.

Just as an aside, what is the point in manufacturers putting these sockets on a relay in the first place?
Because all three (or two depending on model) sockets are each capable of supplying up to fifteen amps each and in order to be able to be switched off by the ignition switch a relay on each is required to isolate the circuits. Otherwise all that power would have to flow though the ignition switch.
 

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Great thread. I plan to use this as a guide next weekend.

Just as an aside, what is the point in manufacturers putting these sockets on a relay in the first place?
If your real question was why do they disconnect the power to the accessory sockets when the ignition is turned off then the answer is they are protecting you from discharging the battery should you leave a device plugged in and powered up for an extended period.
 
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