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Has anybody had any satisfaction in remediating the cabin heat problem? The heat has never been strong, but it's worse than ever now. It takes forever for the temperature gauge to reach operating temperature, and as soon as you turn the heat on, the coolant temperature gauge plummets, and there is little to no cabin heat. The gauge only rises again under acceleration, and as soon as you stop at a light or coast, it plummets again and there is no heat. In case you're wondering, this isn't only occurring in extreme cold, this happens in 40+ degree weather. The only time the heater actually works and the engine maintains operating temperature is when it's so warm you don't need heat! According to Honda, everything is operating normally. Has anybody had any success in getting Honda to fix this problem? Is it too late for a lemon law buyback on a 2017?
 

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Have you asked your dealership to “plug-in” to the OBDII port under the dash and place a thermometer in the dash vent to do a cold start test of the HVAC/coolant temp? The dealership should be able to do this AND give you diagnostic written report showing coolant temp, vent temp, over the time of the cold start test. A number of folks here would very much be interested in your dealerships test results on your CRV.

If you are going to pursue a lemon law, surely more info than a statement such as “according to Honda, no cabin heat is normal” will be required.....no?
 

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Have you asked your dealership to “plug-in” to the OBDII port under the dash and place a thermometer in the dash vent to do a cold start test of the HVAC/coolant temp? The dealership should be able to do this AND give you diagnostic written report showing coolant temp, vent temp, over the time of the cold start test. A number of folks here would very much be interested in your dealerships test results on your CRV.
 

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At 40F+ outside temp, those crazy shutters will be open if the HVAC is in "Auto" mode.
 

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I know I’m a post whore........but I did not do the repetitive posts above.
You get credit for it anyway. :ROFLMAO:

It happens. Seems to be due to delays in the site refreshing after you hit post. Even when you try to be careful and not get impatient and hit the post or save button again.. the site does seem to sometimes throw in a "freebie" on it's own. Apparently a undocumented "feature" :p
 

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Has anybody had any satisfaction in remediating the cabin heat problem? The heat has never been strong, but it's worse than ever now. It takes forever for the temperature gauge to reach operating temperature, and as soon as you turn the heat on, the coolant temperature gauge plummets, and there is little to no cabin heat. The gauge only rises again under acceleration, and as soon as you stop at a light or coast, it plummets again and there is no heat. In case you're wondering, this isn't only occurring in extreme cold, this happens in 40+ degree weather. The only time the heater actually works and the engine maintains operating temperature is when it's so warm you don't need heat! According to Honda, everything is operating normally. Has anybody had any success in getting Honda to fix this problem? Is it too late for a lemon law buyback on a 2017?
Yet some owners have much better results, even with no TSB applied. I routinely start out on winter mornings here with it being 30-40 degrees in the early morning. I have reasonable cabin heat from just driving at city speeds and stop lights within a few minutes. Granted, my CRV is garaged at night and it is probably closer to 50 degrees in the garage overnight, so maybe that helps some. Full engine temperature in 32 degree weather, in town slow driving, for me... 7-10 minutes.. depending on the number of red lights.

CLEARLY.. there is some variation here for one owner to have reasonable heat in a short period of time (I would never use the word excellent, for a gen5 CRV) ... and other owners having real cabin heating issues under what appears to be similar conditions.

Your frustration with the dealer here is that you are experiencing a problem, but when they check vehicle configuration and function, and run diagnostics... they find everything within Honda spec. If the vehicle is within Honda spec and working as Honda spec states... there is not much they can do. So.. it begs the question as to what variations are at play here that cause some owners to have struggles and others do not.

I think the only way to narrow this down as owners would be to be able to have a CRV with the issue and a same model and year CRV without the issue.. and have the drivers conduct a mutual experiment on the exact same weather and drive.. to confirm if there is a difference, and then begin to figure out why. But honestly.. with all of us scattered all over the world.. this is really no feasible.

What do you want to bet that Honda knows they did not put enough "beef" in the cabin heating in the gen5 CRV, and then overcorrects in the gen6.... and we start complaining about it being too warm in the cabin? :whistle: Something different to get frustrated about and complain about. Time will tell.

As for popping a lemon law claim, you would probably fail.. but would need to check the specific lemon laws for your state.
 

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..........I routinely start out on winter mornings here with it being 30-40 degrees in the early morning. I have reasonable cabin heat from just driving at city speeds and stop lights within a few minutes. Granted, my CRV is garaged at night and it is probably closer to 50 degrees in the garage overnight, so maybe that helps some. Full engine temperature in 32 degree weather, in town slow driving, for me... 7-10 minutes.. depending on the number of red lights...........
You and I both have post our cold start/driving/coolant temps/heater results of our Vs. Why does no one else, with weak/no heat, ever post dealership cold start diagnostic test numbers (engine coolant temp, dash vent temp, over X amount of time the test is conducted.

I see 85F-90F vent temps before the temp needle ever appears.......using a $5 probe thermometer inserted into a dash vent to verify a working HVAC. I use a OBDII reader to monitor engine coolant temp. Pretty sure my monitoring equipment is no where near as sophisticated as the dealerships test equipment.

Since 125F water is considered scalding to bare skin, I would think IF 125F coolant was flowing thru a heater core, then some heat would be felt at a dash vent. If coolant temp continues to rise, which it does when driving, vent temp would also rise. If engine coolant temp does not rise while driving, maybe something under the hood should be addressed by the dealership. If coolant temp does continue to rise but vent temp does not, maybe something under the dash needs to be addressed.

Yesterdays A.M. outside temp display on the dash was 15F........got to turn the heater down when vent temp exceeds 100F.
 

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Unsurprisingly, it takes very little gas to operate a low-friction 1.5L engine at idle. It does not surprise me that the engine can't come up to temp when it's cold and you aren't using the gas pedal. (I had the same situation with my B5 Passat and its 1.8T; it, too, would drop in temp at lights or during extended coasting.)

And the needle magnifies any effect; it won't even leave the peg until the engine's over 100 degrees, and stops at its setpoint of 190-something degrees. A small change in temp can result in an impressive swing of the needle until it reaches operating temp. (Once it's there, it then takes quite a drop to move the needle.)
 

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I don't have a clue as to how much gas consumption/friction there is at idle........what I'm saying is, my face feels warm air and the thermometer I placed in the dash vent verifies warm air exiting the dash vent and the ScanGauge II shows coolant temp rising, after a cold start, BEFORE the temp needle appears, on our V. Why is there so much concern regarding where the needle is???? Factory temp gauges are a RIGGED POS. I'm wondering if the OP has tried "Manual" mode HVAC to see if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Have you asked your dealership to “plug-in” to the OBDII port under the dash and place a thermometer in the dash vent to do a cold start test of the HVAC/coolant temp? The dealership should be able to do this AND give you diagnostic written report showing coolant temp, vent temp, over the time of the cold start test. A number of folks here would very much be interested in your dealerships test results on your CRV.

If you are going to pursue a lemon law, surely more info than a statement such as “according to Honda, no cabin heat is normal” will be required.....no?
I believe they probed the coolant temperature because they said it wouldn't get past 110 at idle but when driven it went up to 140. I don't recall anything about the vent temp, however.

Yet some owners have much better results, even with no TSB applied. I routinely start out on winter mornings here with it being 30-40 degrees in the early morning. I have reasonable cabin heat from just driving at city speeds and stop lights within a few minutes. Granted, my CRV is garaged at night and it is probably closer to 50 degrees in the garage overnight, so maybe that helps some. Full engine temperature in 32 degree weather, in town slow driving, for me... 7-10 minutes.. depending on the number of red lights.

CLEARLY.. there is some variation here for one owner to have reasonable heat in a short period of time (I would never use the word excellent, for a gen5 CRV) ... and other owners having real cabin heating issues under what appears to be similar conditions.

Your frustration with the dealer here is that you are experiencing a problem, but when they check vehicle configuration and function, and run diagnostics... they find everything within Honda spec. If the vehicle is within Honda spec and working as Honda spec states... there is not much they can do. So.. it begs the question as to what variations are at play here that cause some owners to have struggles and others do not.

I think the only way to narrow this down as owners would be to be able to have a CRV with the issue and a same model and year CRV without the issue.. and have the drivers conduct a mutual experiment on the exact same weather and drive.. to confirm if there is a difference, and then begin to figure out why. But honestly.. with all of us scattered all over the world.. this is really no feasible.

What do you want to bet that Honda knows they did not put enough "beef" in the cabin heating in the gen5 CRV, and then overcorrects in the gen6.... and we start complaining about it being too warm in the cabin? :whistle: Something different to get frustrated about and complain about. Time will tell.

As for popping a lemon law claim, you would probably fail.. but would need to check the specific lemon laws for your state.
Thank you for the reply, and yes it is very frustrating. Obviously I don't know whether or not the coolant temperature is normal, but the behavior of the gauge certainly is not. In the event that the coolant temperature is normal, I do wonder if the problem could be caused by a faulty temperature sensor. I would imagine if the ect sensor is faulty, that could cause the car to suppress the heat output to compensate based on the faulty data it's receiving from the sensor. Does that make sense?

You and I both have post our cold start/driving/coolant temps/heater results of our Vs. Why does no one else, with weak/no heat, ever post dealership cold start diagnostic test numbers (engine coolant temp, dash vent temp, over X amount of time the test is conducted.

I see 85F-90F vent temps before the temp needle ever appears.......using a $5 probe thermometer inserted into a dash vent to verify a working HVAC. I use a OBDII reader to monitor engine coolant temp. Pretty sure my monitoring equipment is no where near as sophisticated as the dealerships test equipment.

Since 125F water is considered scalding to bare skin, I would think IF 125F coolant was flowing thru a heater core, then some heat would be felt at a dash vent. If coolant temp continues to rise, which it does when driving, vent temp would also rise. If engine coolant temp does not rise while driving, maybe something under the hood should be addressed by the dealership. If coolant temp does continue to rise but vent temp does not, maybe something under the dash needs to be addressed.

Yesterdays A.M. outside temp display on the dash was 15F........got to turn the heater down when vent temp exceeds 100F.
I actually have another appointment at a different dealership on Tuesday. This time I'll ask them for a printout of the test results and I'll certainly be happy to post them. Admittedly I don't have a probe or an OBD2 scanner, so I can't collect any data myself, but I can tell you based on my perception that I rarely, if ever experience 85-90 vent temperatures in spite of the fact that I'm operating under much less severe cold weather conditions than you are.
 

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I don't have a clue as to how much gas consumption/friction there is at idle........what I'm saying is, my face feels warm air and the thermometer I placed in the dash vent verifies warm air exiting the dash vent and the ScanGauge II shows coolant temp rising, after a cold start, BEFORE the temp needle appears, on our V. Why is there so much concern regarding where the needle is???? Factory temp gauges are a RIGGED POS. I'm wondering if the OP has tried "Manual" mode HVAC to see if that helps.
Just to clarify... in my case... I only use Auto mode for climate control. Cabin temperature setting = 70 degrees F ... winter and summer for me. And once the vehicle reaches it's trigger threshold to push heat through the cabin heating system... the blower pops in, usually at setting 4, until the cabin temperature stabilizes. The cabin heating of course blows hotter than 70 as it works to warm up a cold cabin.. and I can feel warm air on my face or legs as it does. On Auto it will first go to floor heating, and then switch to mixed floor and dash heating.... then ultimately it goes into low cycle air and maintenance of temperature setting. If I had to guess.. the air I feel is around 80 degrees or so during the heating phase, but moving warm air through cold can be deceiving to skin perception. (unlike you.. I have never measured it with a thermometer at the vent :) )

I know some folks have found going to manual and keeping the heat off for a bit gives the engine better chance to warm up first.. right? But at the temperatures quoted by the original post... which is essentially the same for me.... there should be no need to go to manual climate control. Absolutely no harm in running the experiment though. :)

And yes.. Auto kicks in with the blower and heating before I see the first tick mark on the temp gauge light up.
 

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OP, is the thermostat stuck open?

Did you speak to Honda NA or to your local Honda dealer? Finding it hard to believe Honda NA said yeah, we didn't design heating for that car.
I'm thinking the latter - time to try another dealer...there are bad ones for every brand. Think it through:
  • Obviously the car was designed to have working heat.
  • Your car seems to be defective and most everyone else's seems to be fine - which sucks, ok...?
  • Make it the dealers problem. If your dealer is a tool, ask around locally and find the dealer who isn't.
This is a mass market hatchback and they've sold over 1,000,000 in this generation. You have a reasonable expectation of getting your heating fixed - so pull your finger out. :)
 

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..........I actually have another appointment at a different dealership on Tuesday. This time I'll ask them for a printout of the test results and I'll certainly be happy to post them. Admittedly I don't have a probe or an OBD2 scanner, so I can't collect any data myself, but I can tell you based on my perception that I rarely, if ever experience 85-90 vent temperatures in spite of the fact that I'm operating under much less severe cold weather conditions than you are.
Not quite sure how a dealership would “probe” engine coolant to collect temp data. If that’s what they said, I say BS. Where is a probe going to be placed/inserted to give a reliable measurement of engine coolant temp? To do the cold start test, the only thing that needs to be inserted is the dealerships test equipment connector into the OBDII plug under the dash.

Very few people have a OBDII scanner/reader.......but ALL dealerships have them. The dealerships also have probe type thermometers to be placed in a dash vent to measure vent air temp. Demand a printout showing coolant temp, vent temp and length of time of the cold start test. Dealerships, and Honda, saying “no cabin heat is NORMAL is BS. Don’t accept ”it’s normal, they all do that” as an answer.

If you post the test data, I think you will be the 1st to do so.
 

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Not quite sure how a dealership would “probe” engine coolant to collect temp data. If that’s what they said, I say BS. Where is a probe going to be placed/inserted to give a reliable measurement of engine coolant temp? ...
Just a guess, but couldn't the word "probe" have been used as a metaphor? :unsure:
 

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Maybe.........and maybe they "probed" the coolant bottle, as if that would tell you anything from a cold start. That's why it important to GET IT IN WRITING. Dealerships/service writers are famous for attempting to take advantage of the unsuspecting.

Last summer I took our RAV4 to the local Honda dealership for a annual state required inspection. The brakes squeaked a little when I stopped in the customer service area. The service writer says "I can tell you now it won't pass" I said "why, you haven't inspected it yet". He said "your brakes squeak". I asked "is the state inspection based on sound or stopping performance"? He had a funny/surprised look on his face. 15 minutes later, I'm driving off......it PASSED.;)
 

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Not quite sure how a dealership would “probe” engine coolant to collect temp data. If that’s what they said, I say BS. Where is a probe going to be placed/inserted to give a reliable measurement of engine coolant temp? To do the cold start test, the only thing that needs to be inserted is the dealerships test equipment connector into the OBDII plug under the dash.

Very few people have a OBDII scanner/reader.......but ALL dealerships have them. The dealerships also have probe type thermometers to be placed in a dash vent to measure vent air temp. Demand a printout showing coolant temp, vent temp and length of time of the cold start test. Dealerships, and Honda, saying “no cabin heat is NORMAL is BS. Don’t accept ”it’s normal, they all do that” as an answer.

If you post the test data, I think you will be the 1st to do so.
We are all armchair spectators here, receiving second hand accounts of what a dealer may have said.

Most likely.. if the Dealer did use the term "probe".. they meant probe electronically through the OBDII. It also could mean if they think something is blocked or open when it should not be.. they can and do have methods to actually probe different points in the cooling system with various appliances they can hook-in.. to help localize a fault.

I would not get too hung up on terms here, especially when relayed through an owner from the dealer. All humans encounter some effects of the old "whisper in the left ear around a circle one time.. and see the shift in what was said in the first ear vs what was heard in the last ear". It's not a knock on anyone, just the nature of the way the human mind filters and passes on information. :)

In the end, I am just pulling for the owner, that the dealer can find a problem and deal with it.
 

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.........and if the OP reports back to this forum with dealership hard data in print, it will be a 1st as far as I know.
 

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Ours heater works fine as well.

Wonder if Honda has been curious enough to buy back even one CRV with the weak/no heat problem just to try to get to the bottom of the problem some folks experience.🤷‍♂️
 
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