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Discussion Starter #1
I've read quite a few threads about replacing the door actuators. My daughter has a 2009 EX that we have owned since new. She's been having issues with the door locks for years. I can't remember when it started, but it was outside the warranty extension period, and Honda has turned down our request for assistance. She had the dealer replace the one in the tailgate, so she'll have access to the back. 3 of the doors need replacing.

I hate to see her pay the big $$$ to a dealer for the other 3. She's about 3 hours away, but may drive up for a weekend and I'll give it a shot.

My questions:

1. Any favorite YouTube videos of the process? I've viewed a few.
2. Is this the correct part? They refer to L and R, not driver and passenger. Search Results | Honda Parts Cheap
3. How long of a job is this for a skilled non-wrencher?
 

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This one is decent
By A1 Auto

Have not done it myself, seems like having the right tool to get the screws out without stripping them and a good deal of patience as I believe the job is more tedious than it is difficult.

I am sure some others will chime in - ones who have actually performed this task
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I've seen the first one but not the second. Really not looking forward to it, but they wanted $1,100 to do 3 doors and the tailgate. Hate spending that much for something like this on an 11 year old vehicle with 140k on it. We've owned it since new.
 

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This is the correct part for the right front (passenger) door lock actuator:

https://www.hondapartsnow.com/genuine/honda~latch~assy~72110-swa-d01.html?Make=Honda&Model=CR-V&Year=2009&Submodel=&Filter=(bt=3,528;et=2,7) .

It's about a two hour job per door. Figure $65-70 per part + tax + 5-day shipping, and yeah, you can save a lot of money with DIY. Make sure you have one of these tools in your tool bag, plus panel removal tools and a good drop light or flashlight that will fit inside the door. This tool is called an impact driver:

CRAFTSMAN Hand Impact Driver, 3/8-Inch Set (CMMT14104) - - Amazon.com

Works with a hammer. Reversible for tightening. Do NOT use a powered impact - it will strip the screws and turn the project into a nightmare. Used right, this impact driver will loosen the screws with one or two medium hammer blows. Been using mine for 40 years, never stripped a screw yet.

I'd do one door at a time, complete. That way, if you run out of weekend, you can add another weekend. Once you've done the first one, the others will go quicker.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the link, and I planned to get a manual impact wrench for the 3 screws on the door.

The dealer installed a new one in the tailgate Thursday. It already failed. My daughter took it back to the dealer today. Of course, they have to order another. This will be 4 trips total 🤦‍♂️
 

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The part you have linked there is a mirror part - NOT a door lock actuator. Not remotely similar. The door lock actuator is the actual door latch mechanism, which is housed in the power actuator block. It mounts to the back edge inside the door and contains the latch that opens and latches the door when you use the handles, etc. That block also contains the power door lock solenoid, which is not repairable separately - it's all one piece that cannot be disassembled. It's the large white plastic block you see in the guy's hand in the video above. All the levers and wires connect to it from the handles and latches and locks and switches. Do not bring a picnic lunch, but do bring a first aid kit.

And no, this is unrelated to the window motors. Please get yourself a factory service manual and read up on this. You will need to do this anyway, before you attempt this job. It is not a beginner level task, as it is somewhat complicated. You will need to know what you are doing. If you get it apart and can't get it back together correctly you will render the car unusable, as you can't drive it with the door hanging open. In difficulty level, it is closer to replacing the entire power window frame than just the regulator/motor. It takes place inside the door, which is a very confined space, and there are a bunch of parts that have to come apart inside there without damaging them, and then they have to be re-attached to the new actuator as it is installed. Many of the steps involved will have to be completed blind, as you cannot see what you're doing around your hands and the parts at the same time. You have to go by feel, so you need a good mind's eye picture of it as you go.

The last one of these I did was on my F250. The door is twice the size of the CR-Vs, and twice as big inside. But the latch is bigger too. Took me 4 hours, and I know what I'm doing. You're also likely to cut your hands up some on the sharp edges in there, so be careful with that, too. It's a delicate and unforgiving wrasslin' match.

Be sure to get the correct actuators for each door, they are all different. Don't be discouraged - it's not insumountable, but it is also not more tedious than difficult. It is difficult because you have to do each thing in the correct order. Disconnect each lever, connector, cable, part, in the right sequence. Then the same thing in reverse to install the new one. I'd say it will take a while do get the first one, and you'll be cussing and frustrated. But the rest will be much easier because you'll know. Three in one day will be a long day, but you will be adept at it by the time you're done. Just don't try to hurry it - take your time and do each thing in order, smoothly. Test each one as you finish it to make sure it works right in all functions.
 

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The part you have linked there is a mirror part - NOT a door lock actuator. Not remotely similar. The door lock actuator is the actual door latch mechanism, which is housed in the power actuator block. It mounts to the back edge inside the door and contains the latch that opens and latches the door when you use the handles, etc. That block also contains the power door lock solenoid, which is not repairable separately - it's all one piece that cannot be disassembled. It's the large white plastic block you see in the guy's hand in the video above. All the levers and wires connect to it from the handles and latches and locks and switches. Do not bring a picnic lunch, but do bring a first aid kit.

And no, this is unrelated to the window motors. Please get yourself a factory service manual and read up on this. You will need to do this anyway, before you attempt this job. It is not a beginner level task, as it is somewhat complicated. You will need to know what you are doing. If you get it apart and can't get it back together correctly you will render the car unusable, as you can't drive it with the door hanging open. In difficulty level, it is closer to replacing the entire power window frame than just the regulator/motor. It takes place inside the door, which is a very confined space, and there are a bunch of parts that have to come apart inside there without damaging them, and then they have to be re-attached to the new actuator as it is installed. Many of the steps involved will have to be completed blind, as you cannot see what you're doing around your hands and the parts at the same time. You have to go by feel, so you need a good mind's eye picture of it as you go.

The last one of these I did was on my F250. The door is twice the size of the CR-Vs, and twice as big inside. But the latch is bigger too. Took me 4 hours, and I know what I'm doing. You're also likely to cut your hands up some on the sharp edges in there, so be careful with that, too. It's a delicate and unforgiving wrasslin' match.

Be sure to get the correct actuators for each door, they are all different. Don't be discouraged - it's not insumountable, but it is also not more tedious than difficult. It is difficult because you have to do each thing in the correct order. Disconnect each lever, connector, cable, part, in the right sequence. Then the same thing in reverse to install the new one. I'd say it will take a while do get the first one, and you'll be cussing and frustrated. But the rest will be much easier because you'll know. Three in one day will be a long day, but you will be adept at it by the time you're done. Just don't try to hurry it - take your time and do each thing in order, smoothly. Test each one as you finish it to make sure it works right in all functions.
No I was referring to the little electric $2 motor inside the actual actuators. You just need shaft size and type for the little motor. On the Toyota RAV4 for example the little motor is only a few bucks. Procedure just little more involved than the RR actuators already being done.
 

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It's not the motors that go bad in the actuators--it is usually a plastic gear that strips out. First, a rubber bushing gives out and the door actuators give a loud "clack" when they are locked. Then because they are overextended (?), the plastic gear strips out and you get that horrible whirring/grinding noise from the door. Don't screw around with these stupid things--just replace the whole actuator and do it right.

The hammer impact drivers are useless on the door screws---they all have the improper cross-head bit. You need JIS bits, not Phillips (which will gut the screw heads--don't ask how I know this). Plus, those hammer impact drivers will ruin your doors--I tried whacking at one of ours and the metal started to bend inward and I had to give up. This isn't a brake disc hub that you can whack with a heavy hammer (which is what the impact drivers are made for)--this is thin metal. A JIS bit and some sort of powered impact driver (like a Milwaukee 1/4" or 3/8" impact), or a ratchet that you can push on (into the screw head) with the JIS bit will get it loose.
 
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No I was referring to the little electric $2 motor inside the actual actuators. You just need shaft size and type for the little motor. On the Toyota RAV4 for example the little motor is only a few bucks. Procedure just little more involved than the RR actuators already being done.
I gotcha! But I've never heard of nor seen where this could be done on a V.
 

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It's not the motors that go bad in the actuators--it is usually a plastic gear that strips out. First, a rubber bushing gives out and the door actuators give a loud "clack" when they are locked. Then because they are overextended (?), the plastic gear strips out and you get that horrible whirring/grinding noise from the door. Don't screw around with these stupid things--just replace the whole actuator and do it right.

The hammer impact drivers are useless on the door screws---they all have the improper cross-head bit. You need JIS bits, not Phillips (which will gut the screw heads--don't ask how I know this). Plus, those hammer impact drivers will ruin your doors--I tried whacking at one of ours and the metal started to bend inward and I had to give up. This isn't a brake disc hub that you can whack with a heavy hammer (which is what the impact drivers are made for)--this is thin metal. A JIS bit and some sort of powered impact driver (like a Milwaukee 1/4" or 3/8" impact), or a ratchet that you can push on (into the screw head) with the JIS bit will get it loose.
I can see how whatcher sayin' could happen. But my impact driver set has the correct bits. It has a handful of different ones, plus I've collected more over the years. I've never had to hit it very hard - if you hold it right and let it do the work, it only takes a light to medium tap. The idea is to let it turn the screw with torque, not impact force. I've even used it on plastic screws with no damage. I don't always use it, since I have every kind and size of impact there is, both air and electric. I also have a ratchet that fits over/around the same bits that's handy, as well as a handle that fits them.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Thanks Kloker for pointing out the linked part is for the mirror. I searched for "actuator ", but didn't notice it was for the mirror.
 

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Let us know how the job goes. I'm sure it'll be like a day at the circus.
 

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Also interested to hear how the job goes. My front passenger and rear driver door actuators are blown with the shop quoting $350 a piece so I'm looking to DIY.

I'm not as concerned about the front one since that flips to locked and has an issue unlocking, but the back door won't stay locked so essentially the car is always unlocked. Looking to fix ASAP!
 

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My son bought a 2009 EX last week from a private seller. The rear passenger actuator was grinding during the test drive, but otherwise it checked out.

My son is not mechanically inclined, but we replaced the actuator today and it went very smoothly.

Here is a link to the video we used:


Here is the actuator we used:


Having watched a few videos, the first thing we did was loosen the three screws holding the actuator to the door- a #3 Phillips head with a large vice grip clamped on, and moving very slowly and deliberately did the trick, the rest was cake.
 

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My son bought a 2009 EX last week from a private seller. The rear passenger actuator was grinding during the test drive, but otherwise it checked out.

My son is not mechanically inclined, but we replaced the actuator today and it went very smoothly.

Here is a link to the video we used:


Here is the actuator we used:


Having watched a few videos, the first thing we did was loosen the three screws holding the actuator to the door- a #3 Phillips head with a large vice grip clamped on, and moving very slowly and deliberately did the trick, the rest was cake.
Welcome to the forum
 
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