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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I have a 2011 CR-V EX (no factory sub) I bought used a few years back. I had already replaced the stock head unit with a Pioneer AVH-X3800BHS and upgraded the door speakers to Kicker C-series 2-ways. The sound quality increase was wonderful and it added Bluetooth, etc., so I've been pretty happy all around. But I wanted some more bass. While I'm not a teenager anymore, I still like a little kick in the pants from my music!

I didn't want to take up trunk space (I stash all my work stuff under the hard shelf and it stays hidden). Under the front seats was either crowded or putting something there would block the under-seat air vents/remove foot space for rear passengers. What I ended up doing was getting a JBL BassPro Nano from Crutchfield hoping I could squeeze it between the front seats under the flip-down tray. It fits - very snugly! Which is perfect as that means you don't have to bolt it down to anything to keep it in place (and passengers in back they don't lose their foot space, unless you are squeezing someone in the middle seat).

This thing isn't going to rattle your liftgate off, but it does add some nice rumble to your seat! Using the line inputs meant that I didn't have to tap into any speaker wires, simplifying the installation.

The support bar in the middle of the flip-down tray meant you had to shift the sub towards the front or the back instead of right in the middle under the tray; I chose the back as that still allows me to stash some stuff under the front of the tray where it is accessible by the driver. And the floor mat I have wraps right around the edge of the sub.

I still hadn't cleaned up the wiring or put the front floor mats back in the photo - it looks a bit better now. :)

Just sharing this in case someone else is looking for an easy solution to add some moderate bass without taking up a whole bunch of space in the back of the vehicle. I just installed it tonight and still need to do some final adjustments to the gain, EQ, etc., but I really like what it provides in such a small package!

Edit - the key here is width of the sub to fit between the seats. This one is shown at 7-11/16" wide and it BARELY fits (as in, I had to push on it to get it to flex the seat plastic a little bit to squeeze it in there). The Nano has a strong aluminum enclosure so I wasn't worried about damaging it, but if it was made of plastic, etc., I may have been a little less willing to push it in there.

 

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Nice! Are you going to add an amp for the door speakers?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Nice! Are you going to add an amp for the door speakers?
Thanks!

Actually, no. They sound pretty good to me as-is. I don’t need it THAT loud. 😄 After adjusting the low pass filter in the Pioneer the front/rear speakers aren’t trying to play those low frequencies they aren’t very good at; they sound even a little better overall now as well.
 

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Your pics aren’t working, for me at least. I’m very interested in this! Can you post a link to the sub you bought as well?


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Discussion Starter #5
Your pics aren’t working, for me at least. I’m very interested in this! Can you post a link to the sub you bought as well?


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Sorry the photo doesn't work for you - I'm not sure why it wouldn't pop up.

It is this one:

If the link isn't allowed or doesn't work for some reason, just search for JBL BassPro Nano on Crutchfield.com. They are the only one who seems to carry it right now - in the video on that web page they say it is a "Crutchfield exclusive". But it has to be the Nano - the other BassPro products I looked at were too big.

I'll note that there are Kenwood and Pioneer (and other brands/models?) subs similar to this (a powered sub using a speaker smaller than 8" to fit in tight spaces) - If it has the same width or less than the JBL (7-11/16") they would likely fit. This is just the one I selected to try. And this one was TIGHT to squeeze between the seats. Any wider and it wouldn't have made it.

Also, one thing to note with this sub is that it has a wired remote but the little light on it is super bright. As such, I just velcro'd it to the carpet between the seats so I can reach down and adjust the volume without staring at a bright blue light on the dash all the time. I guess now I have a night light down by the little storage bins below the gear shift. :ROFLMAO:
 

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I also have a Pioneer head unit, an older one, AVH-something-something. How does it connect to the head unit?


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Discussion Starter #8
This looks like a decent option as well. Only $10 more (currently on sale, $40 off), 50 more watts and it’s 9 7/16” wide.

JVC CW-DRA8 Compact powered subwoofer: 150 watts and an 8" sub at Crutchfield

$177.48 on Amazon.
Amazon.com: JVC Mobile Drvn A Series 8" 250W Powered Subwoofer Speaker Surround Kit (JVCCWDRA8): Electronics


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If you want something for the trunk, that might work. For my CR-V those are way too wide to fit between the front seats which was my main goal with this approach.

As for how it connects to the head unit, that depends on your head unit and how many speakers you already have hooked up to it and if they are on amps, etc.

If you go to the Crutchfield web page I linked previously and look under "What's in the box" about 1/3 of the way down the page, there is a link to the owner's manual that includes installation instructions (page 2 of the pdf). If you want some more information on hooking up a powered sub, you can start by googling "how to hook up a powered subwoofer in a car" and watching a video that shows how to make the connections. The first one that popped up for me was, coincidentally, a nice little primer by Crutchfield. :) Good luck!
 

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If you want something for the trunk, that might work. For my CR-V those are way too wide to fit between the front seats which was my main goal with this approach.

As for how it connects to the head unit, that depends on your head unit and how many speakers you already have hooked up to it and if they are on amps, etc.

If you go to the Crutchfield web page I linked previously and look under "What's in the box" about 1/3 of the way down the page, there is a link to the owner's manual that includes installation instructions (page 2 of the pdf). If you want some more information on hooking up a powered sub, you can start by googling "how to hook up a powered subwoofer in a car" and watching a video that shows how to make the connections. The first one that popped up for me was, coincidentally, a nice little primer by Crutchfield. :) Good luck!
Dang, I thought I was getting something even slimmer than the one you got. I’m not sure what number I had in mind but I just re-read your post. I’m guessing this is too wide to go between the seats.


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Discussion Starter #10
Dang, I thought I was getting something even slimmer than the one you got. I’m not sure what number I had in mind but I just re-read your post. I’m guessing this is too wide to go between the seats.


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Yeah, to fit between the front seats an 8" sub won't work. You have to go for one of the 6"x8-9" sized speaker for the sub. The width is the important part for fitting between the seats. Then check the length to see how far it would stick out front or back, depending on where you place it under the flip tray.

I've had a couple of friends take a quick look at it today while I was running errands and both liked the sound (overall, but especially for the size) and the way it fits right between the seats without taking up a bunch of floor space. One said it looked like it was specifically made to fit right there. Another said he might get one or two for his truck to put under the seats!
 

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How did you run the power and ground wires?


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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
The power wire comes off the battery terminal and goes through a hole in the firewall at about the right side of the engine (when facing it from the front of the vehicle) a few inches down from the hood. It has a small, round, black hard rubber/plastic cap you can just pop off. I punched/cut a hole in that cap to run the wire through so the wire doesn't rub on the metal firewall. Inside the car, that hole is above and to the right of the gas pedal kind of behind the stereo location. A bit hard to reach on the inside, but very convenient for such use. You will have to pull off the plastic panel on the right side of the gas pedal, just back out the two plastic-looking phillips screws and the attached plugs holding the panel there pull right out.

I then ran the power wire over behind the stereo, then down the driver's side of the console behind that plastic panel you removed. From there I just ran the wire under the center console/gear shift/storage cutouts and over the carpet to the location of the sub. My front floormats extend all the way across the floor, so I just put the floor mats over the wires to hide them. I attached the ground wire to the metal brace you can see when you pull off the plastic panel I mentioned previously. There are two bolts there - I just attached it to one of them.

Edit - if you can see the photo in my original post, in the background the wires are just running over the carpet and under the center console. I separated the signal line out from the power and ground wires a bit when I tidied everything up before I put the front floor mat over them. Also, one of those wires is the USB cable to charge my cell phone while I am driving. The Pioneer has a rear-mounted USB connector so I added an extension to it and have a cell phone mount in the front cupholder in the flip-down tray between the front seats.
 

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The power wire comes off the battery terminal and goes through a hole in the firewall at about the right side of the engine (when facing it from the front of the vehicle) a few inches down from the hood. It has a small, round, black hard rubber/plastic cap you can just pop off. I punched/cut a hole in that cap to run the wire through so the wire doesn't rub on the metal firewall. Inside the car, that hole is above and to the right of the gas pedal kind of behind the stereo location. A bit hard to reach on the inside, but very convenient for such use. You will have to pull off the plastic panel on the right side of the gas pedal, just back out the two plastic-looking phillips screws and the attached plugs holding the panel there pull right out.

I then ran the power wire over behind the stereo, then down the driver's side of the console behind that plastic panel you removed. From there I just ran the wire under the center console/gear shift/storage cutouts and over the carpet to the location of the sub. My front floormats extend all the way across the floor, so I just put the floor mats over the wires to hide them. I attached the ground wire to the metal brace you can see when you pull off the plastic panel I mentioned previously. There are two bolts there - I just attached it to one of them.

Edit - if you can see the photo in my original post, in the background the wires are just running over the carpet and under the center console. I separated the signal line out from the power and ground wires a bit when I tidied everything up before I put the front floor mat over them. Also, one of those wires is the USB cable to charge my cell phone while I am driving. The Pioneer has a rear-mounted USB connector so I added an extension to it and have a cell phone mount in the front cupholder in the flip-down tray between the front seats.
I’m assuming the power wire on the pigtail is 16 gauge or something? What gauge did you run from the battery?


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Discussion Starter #14
I’m assuming the power wire on the pigtail is 16 gauge or something? What gauge did you run from the battery?


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I used the "Crutchfield Amp Wiring Kit 12 Gauge" (Item #007CK12). It was 25% off when I bought the Nano and had everything I needed (power with an in-line fuse, ground, loom, etc.) except for a wire for the amp turn-on lead. I just used a piece of old speaker wire for that.
 

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I used the "Crutchfield Amp Wiring Kit 12 Gauge" (Item #007CK12). It was 25% off when I bought the Nano and had everything I needed (power with an in-line fuse, ground, loom, etc.) except for a wire for the amp turn-on lead. I just used a piece of old speaker wire for that.
I just placed my order for this kit and the Nano. It'll be here Wednesday. I was going to go ahead and get an RCA cable from them too but they were all sold out. Guess I'll be going to Walmart.
 

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Thanks!

Actually, no. They sound pretty good to me as-is. I don’t need it THAT loud. 😄 After adjusting the low pass filter in the Pioneer the front/rear speakers aren’t trying to play those low frequencies they aren’t very good at; they sound even a little better overall now as well.
Not for more "louder-ness," but for better driving the door speakers. God aftermarket door speakers will benefit much from a bit more power, in terms of sound quality at lower volume levels. Or at least that's what "they" say. I'm thinking of keeping the stock head unit, and adding an AudioControl LC7i LOC, A Kenwood KAC-M3004 mini-amp (50wpc), and good door speakers, plus a Kenwood KSC-PSW8 powered 8" sub. Later, if I deem it necessary for better sound, I can always upgrade the head unit. Not a cheap setup but very tune-able and should produce very good sound, at all levels.
 

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Discussion Starter #17 (Edited)
Not for more "louder-ness," but for better driving the door speakers. God aftermarket door speakers will benefit much from a bit more power, in terms of sound quality at lower volume levels. Or at least that's what "they" say. I'm thinking of keeping the stock head unit, and adding an AudioControl LC7i LOC, A Kenwood KAC-M3004 mini-amp (50wpc), and good door speakers, plus a Kenwood KSC-PSW8 powered 8" sub. Later, if I deem it necessary for better sound, I can always upgrade the head unit. Not a cheap setup but very tune-able and should produce very good sound, at all levels.
True, but that is more effort than I really want to go through (installing an amp for the door speakers, possibly re-wiring everything, etc.). Really, I'm happy where it's at right now (especially once I have some time to make more adjustments with the EQ and subwoofer gain/settings, etc.). It cranks pretty loud (for me) with no distortion, and that is all I need. (y)

If I were starting from scratch and were more ambitious about putting in a "nice" system I would consider it. For instance, I left the factory tweeters in the dash. Are they good? Probably not. But without some kind of direct factory replacements I am not going to try to fabricate something to replace them. My ears aren't good enough to care at this point.

My door speakers were $140 for all 4. The sub was about $230. The head unit was $200 or so. Plus some taxes, shipping, adapters, and misc. bits and pieces, I like what I've got for what I paid. Getting much "better" isn't critical to me. :)
 

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Agreed! There are definitely levels. With the kind of hearing loss I have it will help me to gain more reproductive detail in the system's output. I learned that with my home system. For my more delicate or intricate music I listen to my Stax Earspeakers. For the more robust stuff I use the Sennheiser HD650's. The Stax give me far more detail, but not as much stage depth as the Sennheisers. But then, the music I choose in the car is different too. But you can't get the range in a car, so I shoot for somewhere in the middle, and I need a little more power to make that happen.

But yeah. The idea is to get your money's worth from the money you spend. So I'll just hope I'[m as happy with mine as you are with yours. :cool:
 

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I installed my Nano today! Everything was fairly straightforward. Thanks for the tip about the grommet in the firewall, that definitely made running the power wire very easy! I have an aftermarket Pioneer headunit so I ran an RCA cable from the sub out to the amp for the signal. At first I wasn’t getting anything from the sub. I confirmed it was getting power based on the green light so I was really confused. Then I remembered my headunit has an option to turn the sub out on/off. I checked and it was off. Turned it on and BINGO! I also installed a PAC SNI-1 noise filter just in case. I still need to fine tune the levels, I didn’t have time for that.


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