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Hello

I want to install a rear bicycle rack (2 bikes, THULE Pro XT for example) and need advice on getting hitch installed and then rack. I don't know anything about this process.

I don't want to go through dealer, but want the job done right for the hitch. Suggestions? I'm in DFW area and want to make sure it is done according to specs. I assume the process is pretty standard, and I see I can buy the hitch mechanism online for about $250.

Then the hitch should be 2" or some other length? The rack should rotate outwards so the door shouldn't be a problem. Can I install the rack myself once the hitch is done or do I need a professional to do this?

Thanks!

Andy
 

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You can install the bike rack your self.
It's basically a square tube you slide into the hitch receiver.
There are holes on each side of the tube and receiver, and you insert a thick bar/pin through the holes to hold the rack in place.
I'd recommend a locking pin so no one runs off with your bike rack when your CR-V is parked.

The 2" refers to the size of the square tube on the receiver, not the length.
If you get a 2" receiver than your bike rack must also be 2".

I found several different types of bike racks, and a folding or tilting rack would probably be best.
They fold backwards away from the tailgate so that you can open it.

I've also seen the swing away type of rack, where the rack swings to one side or the other. That might be good for a vehicle with a rear door that opens to the side, like a 2006 or earlier CR-V, but I think the fold down would be better for a CR-V with rear door that opens upwards.
 

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For a Bike Rack I'd recommend looking into a 1up USA. Super Quality piece, check them out on their website.
 

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If you have never done it before, take a look at www.etrailer.com and see if installing one yourself is for you.
If not, your local Uhaul will do it for a modest fee and supply the hitch.
Go for a two inch. No need for wiring.
Get a rack that can be moved out of the way of your tailgate without removing the bikes.
 

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Go for a two inch. No need for wiring.
What is the reason for recommending a 2" hitch over a 1-1/4" one? Doesn't the 1-1/4" hitch have a higher towing capacity than the CR-V is capable of?
Are there certain bicycle racks that only have the 2" hitch option and don't offer a 1-1/4" one?


Get a rack that can be moved out of the way of your tailgate without removing the bikes.
On a vehicle like the CR-V, shouldn't one be worried about the torsional forces on the frame of the vehicle of a swinging type hitch bicycle rack?
A tilting type hitch might be a better option over a swinging one.
 

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2" receivers are a total waste on these honestly. You end up with a big, bulky reciever that there is no real point in having since 1 1/4 inch units are already rated for more than the CRV is. And MOST BIKE RACKS come in 1 1/4 and you have to use an adapter. Only high end ones or ones for more than 2 bikes come built around 2".
I tow a 1400lb camper (loaded, only 900 empty) on my 1 1/4. Our odyssey has a 2" because it can tow twice what a crv can and it was already installed.

When its for nothing more than a bike rack its just a waste of money to go any bigger unless you want to haul 4 bikes (in switch case suspension mods would be needed too).

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Many bike racks give you the choice of using in either receiver size. That’s useful especially is you have vehicles with different size receivers.
 

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I need to get a hitch for a bike rack (I'll get the 1UP recommended here) but since I've never had a hitch on a car before -- this is for my new CRV 2018 EX -- just want to confirm the kind of hitch I need before I go to U-Haul to purchase and install.

I want a 1.25", and the U-Haul site says I need this: 1-1/4" Rec Round Tube / Class 2 hitch/ Max weight: 3,500 lbs.

Is that right? It also offers a Ball Mount, Hitch Ball, and a Pin & Clip. If all I want to do is attach the 1UP bike rack, do I need any of that?

thanks
AM
 

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1.25 is 1 1/4. The round just refers to the shape of the tubing used from the chassis mounting plates to the receiver itself.
No shame in have UHaul install it.
 

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I want a 1.25", and the U-Haul site says I need this: 1-1/4" Rec Round Tube / Class 2 hitch/ Max weight: 3,500 lbs.

Is that right? It also offers a Ball Mount, Hitch Ball, and a Pin & Clip. If all I want to do is attach the 1UP bike rack, do I need any of that?
Yes, a 1-1/4" hitch is the same as a 1.25" hitch. The "round tube" is probably the tubing the hitch is made of, and Class 2 indicates how heavy a trailer it can tow.

You don't need the ball mount or hitch ball, but you do need a hitch pin and clip.

Although to be honest, I'd get a locking hitch pin so you can leave the bike rack on the CR-V while you're riding, and not worry about the rack being stolen.
 

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I just purchased a 2017 CR-V and ordered a Draw Tite Model 76128 Class III hitch from Amazon for $107.00

You have to lower the exhaust by pushing the three rubber isolators off the pins (squirt a little oil or soapy water on first) and after that is was maybe a 30 minute installation and it looks as clean as a factory install...

Rated for 675 lbs tongue weight and 4500 lbs GTW it is well above the capabilities I need!

I have a Saris 2" hitch mounted rack of which I carry some quite expensive bikes to and from training rides and races and I am quite happy with the performance of this system.
 

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I want a 1.25", and the U-Haul site says I need this: 1-1/4" Rec Round Tube / Class 2 hitch/ Max weight: 3,500 lbs.

Is that right? It also offers a Ball Mount, Hitch Ball, and a Pin & Clip. If all I want to do is attach the 1UP bike rack, do I need any of that?
Yes, a 1-1/4" hitch is the same as a 1.25" hitch. The "round tube" is probably the tubing the hitch is made of, and Class 2 indicates how heavy a trailer it can tow.

You don't need the ball mount or hitch ball, but you do need a hitch pin and clip.

Although to be honest, I'd get a locking hitch pin so you can leave the bike rack on the CR-V while you're riding, and not worry about the rack being stolen.
The 1UP rack doesn't require a pin and clip. There's no provision for it. It uses a torx bolt and bearing to secure itself the the hitch.
 

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The 1UP rack doesn't require a pin and clip. There's no provision for it. It uses a torx bolt and bearing to secure itself the the hitch.
I just read through the instructions.
I assume the part about tightening the "security bolt" is what holds the hitch in place, which means it's a friction fit that uses a velcro strap to help secure the rack in place.

• Tighten Security Bolt firmly with the gold Security Wrench provided.
• Attach Velcro Strap through safety chain loop on the side of the hitch receiver and loop around the
crossbar of rack for added safety.
I found a couple of reviews that mentioned the lack of a hitch pin to secure the rack, one of which said:

Either way, in the event the rack loosens inside the receiver, the only thing that keeps the Quik Rack from eventually ejecting itself on to the road is a worrisomely flimsy Velcro strap.
 

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Can't see why you would need a hitch ball or ball mount if all you intend to do is mount a bike rack in the receiver. You will need the pin & clip to secure the bike rack to the hitch; or preferably, a locking mechanism to replace those two items for added security for both the bike rack and the bikes that are mounted to it.
I see differing opinions above as to 2" or 1 1/4 inch receivers. I always get the 2" since you can mount any 1 1/4 inch accessory in the 2" receiver (with a simple adapter) but you can't mount 2" accessories in a 1 1/4" receiver (Well, there is an adapter to do that also but it extends the hitch & rack assembly further out from the bumper). Choosing the 2" is a simple matter of versatility rather than having anything to do with the towing capacities of the two choices.
 

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I just read through the instructions.
I assume the part about tightening the "security bolt" is what holds the hitch in place, which means it's a friction fit that uses a velcro strap to help secure the rack in place.



I found a couple of reviews that mentioned the lack of a hitch pin to secure the rack, one of which said:
I literally have seen over 50 of those racks being used and not 1 has ever had that issue. It's designed so it CANT work loose. Only reason I don't own one is the price tag for a 2 bike unit. There are literally 1000s of then in use and not one single report online of them falling out (unless user didn't tighten the bolt but still didn't fall out all the way)

Got a nice kuat brand new for half the price. Plus on top of the rack cost I would have to buy the fat bike adapters.....

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As stated before go to etrailer.com for the best information and advice on the mounts available and how to on installing yourself. Best website I've ever run across concerning anything trailer related. Recently purchased the Curt 2" receiver hitch. Watched their video and installed myself with no drilling required. Also bought a Yakima Double Down Ace which adapts to a 1.25 hitch, has snug down tightening to hold carrier to hitch with no movement and will lock carrier to hitch. Also folds down for rear door access.
 

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I went with the 2" receiver on my '09. There are just way more options for the larger receiver, including rear steps/bumpers, carrying racks, etc. which are made only for 2" receivers, so it made absolutely zero sense to get a 1¼" and be limited. The Curt hitch I bought wasn't much more than the 1¼". I got it mainly for my bike rack, but I've recently picked up an adjustable height receiver and a couple of different sized trailer balls (1⅞" and 2"), plus the Curt wiring adapter for the CR-V. I have been looking at a couple of things I may need a trailer to haul, so I want to be prepared.

I finished off the look by purchasing a receiver cover: Honda part 08L92-SJC-10014. Basically just a rubber plug with the [H] logo on it.

The bike rack I'm using for now is the Thule 990XT. I mostly like it, but I had to shorten one of the ratchet clamps since it would not fit the frame of our Specialized Roll. Very stable otherwise. It comes with an anti-rattle receiver adapter, plus a locking hitch pin.
 
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