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Wonder if that AEM box has a scupper valve? That AEM box, with the larger opening, looks like it could allow more under hood hot air in, not to mention direct exposure of the filter element to water. Wonder what power/torque numbers are at <3500 rpm, where 99.9% of driving is done.......at least my driving anyhow.

I see the AEM tube eliminates that small resonator.........sure wish it eliminated that goofy big resonator on top of the motor.

Trimming a few inches of the hood gasket will give cool outside air a straight shot to the stock OEM box.

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Trimming a few inches of the hood gasket will give cool outside air a straight shot to the stock OEM box.
I was wondering if this made sense on OEM intake unless you live in a really hot place. You know, like the West Texas desert. Nice easy upgrade. Did you measure any temps before / after?

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Ignoring the claimed change in output (which I think is very doubtful), the way the intake to the air filter is above the outlet, increases hydrolocking potential.
 

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AEM has been known to ummmm overstate HP improvements with their products.

Probably more like 2-5 hp gain.....on a good day with optimal conditions.

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Meh; I ain't buying those Dyno graphs. You'd think the "difference" would be greater at higher RPM's since that is when the engine needs the most air.

And just one run? That's no way to measure a turbocharged engine, which has real problems with intercooling on most Dyno setups. (A single run ain't a great way to measure any engine, for that matter.)

At least this one has an airbox; most cone-on-a-pipe "cold air intakes" are really "warm air intakes". But how are they keeping water from soaking that filter? The stock box lets water drop out of the air stream before the filter.

In any case, there are higher-performing uses for $300.
 

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I was wondering if this made sense on OEM intake unless you live in a really hot place. You know, like the West Texas desert. Nice easy upgrade. Did you measure any temps before / after?

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Intake air temps will fluctuate substantially, depending on how long sitting still idling or how long driving at highway speeds. Driving on the highway, intake air temp will be right at ambient temp. Stopped in heavy traffic, under hood temps rise rapidly and so does the intake air temp. Pretty logical, right? I have monitored intake air temps in the past using the ScanGauge.......since intake air temps are what they are, I no longer monitor.

Neither the OEM air box nor that so-called “cold air intake” aftermarket air box are connected directly to cool fresh air in front of the grill. The mod I did simply allows more cool “in front of the grill” air to pass with less blockage to the OEM air box when the car is moving.

I doubt that aftermarket box has a scupper valve in the bottom like the OEM box does. Water and air filter elements, either oiled gauze or paper, don’t work very well together. That aftermarket box filter looks very exposed to me.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Meh; I ain't buying those Dyno graphs. You'd think the "difference" would be greater at higher RPM's since that is when the engine needs the most air.

And just one run? That's no way to measure a turbocharged engine, which has real problems with intercooling on most Dyno setups. (A single run ain't a great way to measure any engine, for that matter.)

At least this one has an airbox; most cone-on-a-pipe "cold air intakes" are really "warm air intakes". But how are they keeping water from soaking that filter? The stock box lets water drop out of the air stream before the filter.

In any case, there are higher-performing uses for $300.
It's the best $300 you can spend if you like noise.
 

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I actually installed the AEM intake today. Honestly it's better then I expected. I definitely hear the turbo now and when I accelerate theres more of a rumble. I also noticed that the throttle respone feels a lot better. I'd say it's worth the money
 

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Doesn’t look like the flat 179 ft/lb from 2-5k rpm graphs I’ve seen before.

95ft/lb @ 3141 rpm’s? What am I missing?
🧐
 

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Doesn’t look like the flat 179 ft/lb from 2-5k rpm graphs I’ve seen before.

95ft/lb @ 3141 rpm’s? What am I missing?
🧐
Good eye. Doesn't even look like a torque graph.

I'm guessing either they can't get a good reading with the CVT or they had the vehicle in ECON or something weird.
 

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Do we want to introduce cold air into a motor that already has a tough time warming up (in the cold regions)?
All stock intakes are Cold Air Intakes; it's always annoyed me that the aftermarket intakes talk about providing cold air as if that's unique. (In fact, those "Cone on a Pipe" intakes (which this blessedly isn't) are actually Warm Air Intakes.)
 

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Discussion Starter #19
All stock intakes are Cold Air Intakes; it's always annoyed me that the aftermarket intakes talk about providing cold air as if that's unique. (In fact, those "Cone on a Pipe" intakes (which this blessedly isn't) are actually Warm Air Intakes.)
And none of it matters because once you are moving, the difference between a CAI and SRI are almost indistinguishable.
 

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All stock intakes are Cold Air Intakes; it's always annoyed me that the aftermarket intakes talk about providing cold air as if that's unique. (In fact, those "Cone on a Pipe" intakes (which this blessedly isn't) are actually Warm Air Intakes.)
The phrase "cold air" varies from region to region and moment to moment. I assume that what the phrase actually means is "air that is lower in temp than the air inside the engine compartment". Why not actually make the air "cold" by running an A/C duct into it or applying an intercooler, or...,

...probably because it wouldn't pass a smog check...
 
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