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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Thinking about getting a drop in replacement air filter for our 18 EX-L:

afepower.com/afe-power-30-10267-magnum-flow-pro-5r-air-filter

Anyone have either the oiled or dry version? Have an AFE Pro Dry on my 2009 Tacoma and it has lasted forever, and means one less thing to remember to maintain untilni clean it every 30K. Oiled claims better flow but dry is more maintenance friendly. Thoughts?
 

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Better flow means more contamination. Been 1000s of tests showing how bad those kinds of filters are for the long term of your engine.

The reason why they last so long, because all that crap just goes into your engine instead of being caught by the filter.

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The stock filter (or an aftermarket disposable equivalent) is fine; you have a 1.5L engine, and the stock filter is by no means tiny. There's no magic to a filter; for a given airbox the only way to flow air faster is to filter it less.
 

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I agree with the above statements. Besides you don't need to remember anything. THe MM will indicate when it is time to change the air filter.
 

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My thoughts.......any stock paper unit will filter best. The throttle butterfly is what restricts air flow until the butterfly is wide open......then those tiny intake valves become the restriction to air flow. Something tells me the stock filter and box will flow just about all the air that turblow can suck.
 

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I have a AFE ProDry in my 18. No issues so far. I got one from a 17-18 civic with the same engine. I mentioned to AFE about adding the CRV to their fitment guide.
 

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Have you heard of any issues to watch for?
 

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of course with vehicles that have next to no miles on them there will be no issues. Takes time for the extra crap to start causing issues.

The best part is those air filters do absolutely NOTHING for performance.

The extra air flow is pointless unless you build so seriously hopped up FI engine.

The issues caused by them are throttle plate contamination, for vehicle that idle air solenoids it causes them to have issues much earlier in life due to contamination build up that's more than just the carbon build up from crank case ventilation. Next notable issue is scared rings and cylinder walls causing decrease in compression over time, much more rapidly than normal engine wear.

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of course with vehicles that have next to no miles on them there will be no issues. Takes time for the extra crap to start causing issues.

The best part is those air filters do absolutely NOTHING for performance.

The extra air flow is pointless unless you build so seriously hopped up FI engine.

The issues caused by them are throttle plate contamination, for vehicle that idle air solenoids it causes them to have issues much earlier in life due to contamination build up that's more than just the carbon build up from crank case ventilation. Next notable issue is scared rings and cylinder walls causing decrease in compression over time, much more rapidly than normal engine wear.

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Throttle plate contamination is almost non-existent on high boost engines. 20 psi does a pretty good number on the butterfly. The most likely outcome is dirtier oil, but not by a significant margin.

Long term you will notice a major difference.
 

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What difference are you referring to, in the long term.
 

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Throttle plate contamination is almost non-existent on high boost engines. 20 psi does a pretty good number on the butterfly. The most likely outcome is dirtier oil, but not by a significant margin.

Long term you will notice a major difference.
yeap, is I posted about FI (forced induction) engines being modded. That's where those kind of air filters do some good. But these little factory set ups dont push near enough to matter.

Not just dirtier oil (though part of it)

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