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Hello all..new user, just joined since we finally decided on next vehicle for wife: a 2019 CR-V Touring ... we will get one this week.

In Canada dealer wants $1500 for hitch option - ouch! And also that is just a dealer-installed hitch: I phoned a couple dealers and Honda Canada:
Believe it or not no one can tell me the receiver size!
I am assuming it is 1-1/4 x 1-1/4" and not 2 x 2".
Can anyone confirm?

Anyways, I was therefore thinking of aftermarket: I can get a Curt 13397 hitch (with 2x2" receiver) installed for less than a third of the dealer price.
(Oops - new users can't post link, so here is the link to the Curt product if you use bit.ly: 2IhWFtS)

My only concern is that the Touring has the hands free liftgate option which has wiring in the area where the hitch installs (and where you have to cut a bit of the lower bumper fascia):

Does anyone have any experience with either dealer or after market hitch install on the CR-V Touring and can you confirm hands free liftgate still works after the install?

I am not too sure where the sensor is for this: it is OK if it only works off to one side and/or the other instead of in the middle.
 

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I'm thinking the Honda hitch is probably a Class I since the CR-V does not have much of a towing capacity (older CR-Vs are in the 1500 pound/~680kg range, so the 2019 is probably similar). Class III implies towing higher capacities. I'm thinking if you contact an online retailer like etrailer.com they may be able to tell you what size receiver the OE hitch has. But based on other threads here, it does seem to be the 1¼x1¼" receiver.

I put an aftermarket Curt hitch on my '09, and used a Class III mainly to get the 2x2" receiver so it would be more sturdy and provide more flexibility. I use mine primarily for a bike rack (which is adaptable to both receiver sizes), but I also purchased an adjustable height hitch and a set of balls for different sized trailers, so if I need to pull anything, I'm already set.
 

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.

I always installed my own trailer hitches myself. Why?
- I only install Class III hitches. Not for its max towing numbers (on the hitch) but more for its 2x2" opening. Many peddle bike racks fit best in a 2x2 opening.
- I install hitches much better then factory mechanics (who are paid by "time") would. re: I use "powered" T-Connectors, plastic wire loom and lock-tight glue on all bolts / nuts.
- I can install for much less cost by shopping around and most often, buying off Amazon or e-trailer.

Some folks don't like to do this DIY install themselves.... re: They don't have the tools, don't have the know how, don't want the risk of getting crud in their eyes &/or don't like laying on their back.

Whichever works for you.
 

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Just getting the 2019 Touring this week but when talking with a local hitch shop the aftermarket hitch and wiring would be $500-$600 US installed and the kit to move the sensor for the tailgate might not even be needed depending on the hitch. You can buy the Adapter for Hands Free Tailgate from the dealer or it's available online for $78.00 from Handa-Accesories
 

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I can't speak to hands free system, but they are all large chunks of metal. Suppose you could buy the genuine hitch and DIY.
 

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There is a thread about hitches...the OEM hitch covers the 'hands free' tailgate option but one after market hitch is built to NOT block this functioning.

A Google search might help you.

FWIW I have have '18 Touring and would NOT put on a OEM hitch (I would use the OEM wiring harness, though).
 

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We may still DYI, this would be Hitch install #4 following a '73 Volvo, 88 Grand Voyager, and the previous 2007 CRV. It's easier to do with a lift available compared to in the driveway with the back of the car jacked up The Wiring is doable as well it's the fact that the hitch can get in the way of the hands free system. Dealers' want over $1,000 to do the job that requires at most $300 in parts.

On the 2007 there were no good aftermarket wiring kits like there are now, used the factory kit purchased online and it was easy to do.

The only OEM hitch we've used was on the Volvo and it wasn't any better really than the Kurt or Reese hitches used on the others.
 

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Local firm that specializes in installing hitches and wiring quoted $285 CDN for hitch and $150 CDN for wiring.

If your have any skills and a torque wrench the cost is around $200 CDN for the hitch and the wiring kit (@ eTrailer)
 

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Or split the difference. Let them install the hitch and do the wiring yourself. You'll still save a few bucks and the wiring is basically plug and play. You might even save more if you buy the hitch and just pay to have it installed.

Here's some info from e-trailer on 2 wiring options.


Interesting comments on power choices based on trailer lighting. In my opinion, if I need extra power for a bunch of incandescent bulbs, I'd swap them out for LED's instead. I converted to LED's on my trailer a couple of years ago and I really like the way they look. Adding a dedicated ground wire at each fixture, as opposed to just letting the fixture screws/trailer body provide the ground also cleared up some intermittent lighting anomalies. (Side markers that dimmed when the blinkers were used, etc.) A bad ground at any trailer fixture can cause all sorts of weird (and inconsistent) lighting issues.
 

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Just completed hitch/wiring install on my CR-V EXL 2019. Went for Curt 13397 installation at local U-Haul ( $80 labor) and installed myself OEM Trailer Hitch Harness ( p/n 08L91-TLA-100). Total project cost , including parts/shipments/labor/top , about $340. Went for OEM harness after verifying warranty terms with dealer. They could void warranty if third-party harness caused any problem to car electrical system. Also, all third-party harness solutions assuming that wire with connector will be "living" in spare tire well and would go under rear door threshold when connected to trailer. Workable, but not an elegant solution, in my humble opinion. OEM harness has two pieces of wiring - one (hitch harness) goes to internal tow-package connector located behind upper back panel on driver's side near back door. Second piece (socket harness) goes through the hole , located on back wall of spare tire well, outside under bumper cover. That solution allows to bring trailer connector right to hitch receiver from inside rear bumper cover. So, socket harness wire not exposed at all and hidden inside bumper cover. If anybody will utilize that solution, please remember to insert "socket harness" wire with trailer connector into hole before hitch installation. Otherwise, it is impossible to insert it when hitch already in place. Overall, result of project much exceeded expectation. Hitch completely hidden behind bumper, 2x2 receiver blended very well into rear bumper design and trailer connector from OEM kit perfectly set on top of receiver end( see attached pictures).
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