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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
The torque converter on my 2012 with 120k is failing. Software update has been done along with fill and drains of the ATF. After dealer upgraded the software the shuddering stopped except when going up a steep incline. I don't want to risk any further damage to the tranny, so trying to decide between a family owned shop with great reputation and the dealer. I thought about asking if the private shop would install an OEM converter but have not done that yet. I'm leaning towards having the dealer do it as they have all the required special tools and hopefully a mechanic who will actually do a good job. Anyone have experience with aftermarket converters? One shop told me that his rebuild shop would use kevlar and converter would outlast the Honda OEM part?
 

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2016 CRV Touring AWD
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4,070 Posts
Failure is very rare.

Gear switches fail and wear out.

What are your symptoms?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Symptoms are a higher pitched whirring as soon as I accelerate. It sounds like it’s coming from left front. With window closed sound is easily heard. Local reputable tranny shop owner says it’s probably bearings in torque converter. Whirring stops when I take foot off gas pedal. Shudder was occurring at 25 - 35mph. Dealer updated tranny software and replaced ATF fluid. Shudder dissapeared except when going up steep incline. Dealer claims they hooked up car to scan transmission while car is moving and the shudder was caused by the torque converter. I just bought the car and learned after the fact the tranny oil was likely never changed.
 

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This is common with the Odysseys as well. The fluid breaks down rapidly supposedly the software update is supposed to keep it from getting too hot, not too sure, the coolers are integrated in the radiator on the larger vehicles, and the smaller like Civics and CRVs have one mounted to the transmission which has coolant running thru it, not too sure that’s efficient enough though. Honda does recommend at least a drain and fill ever 3 years or 30,000 miles which ever first. There are multiple bulletins on the CRV and Odyssey for the judder. Some have us do a single drain and fill with software update, I did one on an Odyssey that had me drive it with HDS recording snapshot to be sent to techline then had me do a 11 qt drain and fill “flush” (drain, fill with new fluid, run it thru gears and drive on lift, and repeat 2 more times) perform update and drive to confirm repair, which it did fix it not sure for the long term tho. Haven’t seen this for CR-V tho just single drain and fill unless they updated that bulletin and haven’t seen one since. My mom has a 14 with less than 30k, I did her transmission service right about the 3 year mark at about 20k she hasn’t had this issue yet. That is why it is important to change the fluid frequently, and using Honda ATF DW-1.

My advise for the 120k is to have them to a 12qt drain and fill flush service as long as the fluid isnt Black or burned, as that can cause shift issues. Make sure Honda ATF DW-1 is used and the capacity per drain and fill varies from 2wd to AWD, AWD takes more since the transfer case is bolted directly to transmission and uses the ATF instead of separate like Pilot and Ridgeline which use Hypoid Gear oil for their t-case. It may fix it I may not but it’s the least expensive route in the case it does work. Guys change your ATF frequently!!
 

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2005 and 2006 EX AWD
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always go with a new OEM converter this is what happen to me using a reman. the pretty blue one is junk after 5,000 miles the stator started freewheeling it's supposed to lock in 1 direction so it had low stall speed and would start burning the fluid at a stop if you didn't put it in neutral so $400 and 10 hours of my time and price of fluid trying to save money
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Engine Auto part Vehicle Automotive engine part Car
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
You didn’t take engine out to replace just the converter? Can’t I remove the transmission only? I may do mine to save money. Did it take 10 hours with engine & tranny already out? Any idea how difficult it is to pull tranny with car on jack stands in a garage - if that’s even possible.
 

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2005 and 2006 EX AWD
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yes you can just take out the transmission by supporting the engine on top and dropping subframe then transmission,without a lift it would be a pain but can be done
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