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I noticed on the maintenance minder list that sub-item # 2 says to replace the air cleaner element in addition to the pollen filter.

Is this the same thing as the engine air filter or is this something totally different?

Also, where is it located and is this something that can be replaced easily like the pollen filter?

By the way, if I can replace the pollen filter (I pulled it out today to see how easy it was), then anyone can!
 

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Is this the same thing as the engine air filter
Yes

Also, where is it located
under the hood in the air cleaner housing.
is this something that can be replaced easily like the pollen filter?
Yes.

By the way, if I can replace the pollen filter (I pulled it out today to see how easy it was), then anyone can!

Be glad you do not own a pre-02. It is a bit more involved to replace on the earlier models.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Yes

under the hood in the air cleaner housing.

Yes

Be glad you do not own a pre-02. It is a bit more involved to replace on the earlier models.
You never let us down Honda Tech! :D
 

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Still only takes 20 minutes to change it though!!
Five minutes. Which is quite a bit longer than the 15 seconds the newer ones require.



(20 minutes? You're not really taking the lower center dash out like the printed service procedure suggests, are you? View attachment 537 )
 

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Replacing the air proceedure

OK...I have the hood open, I see the 5-6 machine screws that hold the top of the air filter housing together, what else do I have to unhook or remove to get the old filter out?? Looks like a gizmo with a rigid pipe comes in from the left, and a big hose from the front...06 CR-V....By the way..my housing is rectangular..the new filter is round...is this the correct filter?
 

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OK...I have the hood open, I see the 5-6 machine screws that hold the top of the air filter housing together, what else do I have to unhook or remove to get the old filter out?? Looks like a gizmo with a rigid pipe comes in from the left, and a big hose from the front...06 CR-V....By the way..my housing is rectangular..the new filter is round...is this the correct filter?
Loosen the band clamp for the air tube (big hose) at the top of the filter housing so you can remove the tube from the housing, move the clamp on the crankcase breather tube (gizmo with a rigid pipe comes in from the left) so you can pull the tube loose from the housing, then loosen all the machine screws (they don't need to come completely out of the top housing) then move the top housing up, back and to the left side of the vehicle to clear the two hoses you disconnected. Once you have the lid clear, the round air filter slips out and back into the lower housing.
 

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Yeah the big metal bar with 4 bolts holding it in
Why, is there an easier way??
There is way to remove the glove-box cross-brace without pulling the center dash apart, but the CR-V's that I see in the States have 6 bolts and two phillips screws in addition to the glove box hinge bolts. If you only have 4 bolts, I'd hate to spend the time typing out a procedure that may not even be relevent to your vehicle, given that it'll take longer to type it out than it would take to replace a cabin filter on a pre-'02.
 

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There is way to remove the glove-box cross-brace without pulling the center dash apart, but the CR-V's that I see in the States have 6 bolts and two phillips screws in addition to the glove box hinge bolts. If you only have 4 bolts, I'd hate to spend the time typing out a procedure that may not even be relevent to your vehicle, given that it'll take longer to type it out than it would take to replace a cabin filter on a pre-'02.
Ok fair enough, all I do is
1)Remove 2 screws holding glovebox on
2)Remove glovebox
3)Remove 4 bolts holding crossbrace
4)Remove AC filter
That's it and obviously refitting is the same in reverse!!
 

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Ok fair enough, all I do is
1)Remove 2 screws holding glovebox on
2)Remove glovebox
3)Remove 4 bolts holding crossbrace
4)Remove AC filter
That's it and obviously refitting is the same in reverse!!
That's interesting. Obviously there are other differences in construction other than right hand steering.

The 1997 - 2001 North American CR-V's have a service procedure recommendation to remove the center-dash panels to access 3 bolts that are hidden behind them to remove the glove-box support bar. If you are comfortable working in a blind spot and are accustomed to being cut, it is possible to remove these bolts without removing the dash panels, saving quite a bit of time.

Cheers View attachment 592

JD
 

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That's interesting. Obviously there are other differences in construction other than right hand steering.

The 1997 - 2001 North American CR-V's have a service procedure recommendation to remove the center-dash panels to access 3 bolts that are hidden behind them to remove the glove-box support bar. If you are comfortable working in a blind spot and are accustomed to being cut, it is possible to remove these bolts without removing the dash panels, saving quite a bit of time.

Cheers View attachment 592

JD
I sure know how that goes. :(
 

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I sure know how that goes.
When I was working at a Cadillac dealer, it was actually pretty funny. There would be 3 or 4 of us waiting at the parts counter and someone would spot some blood and ask who was bleeding. Everybody would start looking at their hands and arms to see who it was.

I always tell my trainees that when the wrench starts to feel sticky, they've been cut.

Toyota has been the only manufacturer that I've seen who actually warned against being cut on a bulletin for replacing a door lock control module. I suspect they are the only manufacturer who actually studies a repair procedure. Everybody else does what we politely call an 'armchair' procedure. The less polite refer to it as 'pulling it out of their A$$' :D
 

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That's interesting. Obviously there are other differences in construction other than right hand steering.

The 1997 - 2001 North American CR-V's have a service procedure recommendation to remove the center-dash panels to access 3 bolts that are hidden behind them to remove the glove-box support bar. If you are comfortable working in a blind spot and are accustomed to being cut, it is possible to remove these bolts without removing the dash panels, saving quite a bit of time.

Cheers

JD
2 of the bolts are behind the centre console, but you can pull it away enough to get a small 1/4" rachet in
 

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Thanks to this forum, I did the change and saw the most disgusting black filters ever. Wow, no wonder my wife's car smelled funky, it hadnt been changed in over 4 years ~ 60k miles.
 

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I'm at A12 on MM on my 07 EX and changed the cabin air filter (it is unreal that my dealer wants $90 for a $25-ish filter and not even a minute of work!) and the air cleaner element and would appreciate confirmation whether I did the latter correctly considering I could find no instructions online.

First I removed the wire bundle that runs along the hose from its top-most retainer as I did not want to disconnect the harness to the air flow meter (it looks fragile). Then I loosened the clamp holding the hose to the air cleaner cover and loosened the hose very carefully. Then I snapped back the cover retaining clips, removed the cover, changed the filter, and reversed the process.

Did I miss any essential steps? I quadruple checked all the hoses and whatnot after I finished and it all looked OK.

When I loosened the clamp I noticed a painted yellow line. What I missed is whether the clamp tongue (for lack of a proper term), when tightened, is supposed to stop before, on, or past that yellow line. I assume it's there to prevent you from overtightening the clamp. Does anyone know for sure?

Thanks!
 

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that yellow line. I assume it's there to prevent you from overtightening the clamp. Does anyone know for sure?
The paint mark is from an assembly check at the factory. If you look at your suspension bolts, you'll notice many such marks. They simply are confirmation that the assembly was verified. As long as the induction hose clamp is not so tight that it cuts into the rubber, or so loose that the hose can come loose while driving, you'll be just fine. No rocket science here. ;)
 

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Thanks Honda Tech! Is there anything I could/should do different on the next cleaner element change?

You cannot argue with success, and there would not appear to have been anything wrong with how you did the procedure. The only thing I would 'add' (and please don't take it as a criticism, it's just a time issue - I live in a flat-rate world) is that I don't find it necessary to disconnect anything other than the lid itself to replace the filter element - there is enough room to carefully lift the housing cover and remove and insert the filter.
 
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