[RockyMtnCRV]

1) Purchase a GOOD tire gauge with a dial (can be found for less than $20.00)

2) READ and understand the correct tire pressures on your 'B' pillar - it's likely that there is a different PSI for front vs rear

3) Set your tires to these pressures

4) Press the reset/calibration button (we had one in our '14, I'm thinking you have on in your '12 - '17 on is done through the HU)

5) ALL should be well with the world...

Best of luck to you!

 

[Hankman]

Calibrate the TPMS. If I remember correctly there’s a button you have to press under the dash.


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[ilovemyhonda88]

We've had many cars over the years, Hondas, toyotas, jeeps, chevy, none need air top up for at least a year if its been aired properly and not leaking. We did had a very slow leak on an aluminum rim once that took weeks to notice once aired up. It was a bad seal from the tire to the rim due to oxidation. The shop took the tire off and re sit the rim and all was good after.
Also get a good dial gauge. The stick type is not accurate. Also i dont trust the dealership to air my tires. I once found a tire 10psi over the correct pressure after an oil change.

 

[Carbuff2]

have the seals and valve stems checked.

THAT is good advice. Weekly fill-ups are out of the realm of expectation for most. A tire shop or garage should take their time looking for the leak. The slow ones may require a bit of time to identify.


You don't mention age (miles) or what type of rims (steel or alloy), but a few things could be going on. (Be thankful you have a TPMS system.)


1. An alloy rim could be corroded (esp. due to being scratched during a previous tire change). Then road salt could have corroded the aluminum, making a good seal impossible. This can occur at the tire/rim edge (the bead) or at the tire valve area, where the valve touches the rim.

A good tire shop will sand down the beads, and the area where the tire valve touches the rim. (On a steel rim, these could just be rusty areas forming.) Then, they can apply a sealer.

We had one car that had porous factory alloy rims. The rim sealer can help with this as well.


2. The tire could be porous. I've seen this several times. If the date code on the 'leaker' tire is different from the others, it could be a different batch. On our sports car with staggered (different size) tires, we have had one set of tire require filling more often than the other two. But that was every 6 weeks, not a WEEK.

If you think this is the issue, you need to determine if you need new tires (replace in pairs or sets on AWD CR-Vs) or if perhaps you want a tube installed. (Tubes are cheaper but I've had them overheat and blow out...your choice.)

+++++++++

Be prepared to pay a tire shop for their time and expertise. And don't forget to do the recalibration of the TMPS after any work.

 

[downunder47]

A primer on air pressure in tires.

Hi. I have a 2012 Honda CRV that I bought two years ago. The air pressure light keeps coming on, no matter what time of year. The tires are all basically new. I've had it to the garage recently to check for tire leaks and they couldn't find anything. Every time it gets below freezing outside, a tire(s) loses air and the warning light comes on. I then have to add more air. I called the garage, and they said this is normal when it gets cold; but it happens all the time. The mechanic also said every tire and car is different, and some need air every week. My husband has a new Hyundai and never has issues. I talked to one person who used to work in auto sales, and he says this doesn't sound right and to have the seals and valve stems checked. Thoughts?

Tire pressure changes about 1 pound per 10 degrees of temperature and 2 to 4 pounds from cold to driving a while. The pressures on the door pillar are specified at 70 degrees F and not driven for 4 hours or more.

For example, fill to 30 psi immediately after driving at 80 degrees F and check it at 30 degrees F after sitting 4 hours and it will go down to at least 7 psi or 23 which may well cause a pressure alarm.

It is likely to have to add air in winter and let some out in summer.

Check pressure before driving a few days and if pressure changes more than expected for temperature difference, something is leaking.

 

[marty1]

Tire pressure changes about 1 pound per 10 degrees of temperature and 2 to 4 pounds from cold to driving a while. The pressures on the door pillar are specified at 70 degrees F and not driven for 4 hours or more.

For example, fill to 30 psi immediately after driving at 80 degrees F and check it at 30 degrees F after sitting 4 hours and it will go down to at least 7 psi or 23 which may well cause a pressure alarm.

It is likely to have to add air in winter and let some out in summer.

Check pressure before driving a few days and if pressure changes more than expected for temperature difference, something is leaking.

The placard pressure on the door pillar is NOT specified at 70 deg. F. It is the tire pressure when the tire is at the lowest ambient temperature of the day (or night if driving overnight). That is why tire pressure is best measured in the early morning after the vehicle has been sitting overnight.

If the tires are at placard pressure in a 70 F heated garage and the outdoor temp. is 20 F, then the tires are being driven 5 psi underinflated. The tire pressure will rise 2 to 4 psi when driving and another few pounds as the ambient temp. rises during the day, but the placard pressure is determined with that in mind. In areas with large temperature swings between summer and winter, air needs to be added in the winter and released in the summer to keep the tires at the specified placard pressure. Lastly it is far easier on the tires to be driven a few psi overinflated than a few psi underinflated.

 

[Fibber2]

First off, I'm pretty sure you can ignore the advice to push the reset button to calibrate the TPMS system. You stated that you drive a 2012 CRV which should have real live remote TPMS transmitters installed in each tire. After 2013 the CRV went back to a second generation indirect system, and hence the comments about a rest/calibrate button.

If you've never had the seals on your now 6 year sensors replaced, they are probably in need of replacement and the nuts retorqued to around 38 in-lbs to ensure a good seal. A touch of silicon grease on the seals and rim might also be needed if the surface on either the TPMS module stem or the alloy wheel is pitted.

 

[Hankman]

I had a 2012 CR-V. It does have a button to calibrate the TPMS.


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[Fibber2]

Interesting.... I've never seen this on my daughter's 2013. Where is it located, and what does it do? I'll have to go look!! Please, school me.

I built up a set of winter tires for her, and seasonally swap them out. I upload the new set of 4 hex codes thru the OBD port with a Quickset, and the system resets itself. Never had a problem with that process.

 

[Hankman]

Interesting.... I've never seen this on my daughter's 2013. Where is it located, and what does it do? I'll have to go look!! Please, school me.

I built up a set of winter tires for her, and seasonally swap them out. I upload the new set of 4 hex codes thru the OBD port with a Quickset, and the system resets itself. Never had a problem with that process.

Here is how to do it smart ass.

https://enginepartsdiagram.com/reset-tire-pressure-warning-light-on-2012-2015-honda-cr-v/


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[Fibber2]

Here is how to do it smart ass.

PARDON ME? You might note that I hit the "Thank You" button when I posted that reply. I asked you to educate me. And for that you replied as you did.... Nice....

 

[Fibber2]

BTW, I found neither a TPMS reset button on the lower left dash or a electronic menu option for resetting the light on my kid's 2013 LX as Hankman insists. I crawled thru the Owners Manual, and the instructions are quite clear. If the system detects low pressure and gives a warning, simply top off the tires to the doorjam recommended pressure and the system will reset itself once the 4 wheel direct reading sensors transmit valid pressure data to the onboard system. This might take a few miles of continuous driving.