Sounds like you’re at the point of taking it to the dealer.
Hopefully they have more answers than mine, who was going to start checking each error code…
All the dash lights and warning signs are going off!
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Hopefully they have more answers than mine, who was going to start checking each error code…
Double check all connections on battery and may have to scan for codes, yes.
Could try disconnecting negative terminal for 10 minutes one last time and see. One step further is disconnect both terminals and touch together.
Could try disconnecting negative terminal for 10 minutes one last time and see. One step further is disconnect both terminals and touch together.
It’s probably time to go to the dealership. Let us know the outcome.
Are you my daughter? 😂
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My 18’ CRV had same issue and started on same day as you.
Our battery is fine, but car is throwing the P0172 code ..
No, but she does have a very similar outlook about continuing to drive with all warning lights illuminated. 🤨Are you my daughter? 😂
Does your daughter has beard?
P0172 OBD-II Trouble Code: System Too Rich (Bank 1)
P0172 code definition? P0172 is a trouble code that is set when the ECU senses that there may be too much gasoline present in the air-fuel mixture of the engine. A proper air-fuel ratio of about 14.7:1 is vital to obtain...
www.yourmechanic.com
Other than a ton of squirrels, no. There are no signs of any infestation under the hood.
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I went to the dealer today for same issue and they issued a PGM-FI & TCU software update and Oil change to fix it. We will see.
same thing happened to my 2017 CRV - lit up like a xmas tree. when they tested the old battery, it didn't show anything critical, so at first dealership couldn't figure out what was going on; they attached to a more sensitive diagnostic unit and battery was close to needing replacement.
I had multi dash lights occur once. I called dealer to make an appt for the next day. Then took some time to remove batty cable clamp, clean clamp & post and reassemble.
All was well - called dealer to cancel appt and never had a problem after but I did pay attention to batty clamp cleanliness & good connections.
I would do that and drive it to a NAPA to have them load test the batty. Replace if results indicate. NAPA carries East Penn battys and they are good quality IMO and I used a lot of EP, Duracell (Sams Club also made by EP) and now NAPA. My motorhome start battys (Alliance made by EP) went 10 yrs and still started OK and V tested fine but CCA was down to 50% of spec so I replaced them as PM.
All was well - called dealer to cancel appt and never had a problem after but I did pay attention to batty clamp cleanliness & good connections.
I would do that and drive it to a NAPA to have them load test the batty. Replace if results indicate. NAPA carries East Penn battys and they are good quality IMO and I used a lot of EP, Duracell (Sams Club also made by EP) and now NAPA. My motorhome start battys (Alliance made by EP) went 10 yrs and still started OK and V tested fine but CCA was down to 50% of spec so I replaced them as PM.
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When our 2018 decided to do the same thing you're talking about (a year and a half ago or so) and the brake pedal did weird stuff (sorta "vibrated" etc) when I went to start it, and it wouldn't start, I hooked up my "battery jumper" and started it. It started and ran OK but did that the next time.
I read up on it and saw that it was the battery, which the car came with brand new, that caused it to do this crazy crap. I replaced the battery myself and have not had a problem since then.
You'd think that a warning about the battery/charging system would've come up on the dash.
I've since heard of this happening to other CR-Vs. As a result, I have two of those jumpers (I got a refund on the first one and was told to keep it, because the cheapie clamps were all plastic except for the "jaw" on one of the sides of the clamp, the wire going to that metal "jaw" and the spring/axle that held the two halves together - the plastic clamps crumbled and were useless, hence the refund and being told to keep it, but I digress). I bought a new jumper and put all metal clamps on the "old" one. So, that's why I have two... OH, and I recharge them whenever they get below about 50%..
Check for codes with a good scan tool, ideally one that shows the modules topology. Could be a communication code with multiple codes setting all at once, but without a scan tool it's just a guess.
Any updates? thx
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This sounds similar to what happened with my ody last year. The battery was being drained because the alternator went bad. Got new one installed and no more issue.
I had to replace the fuel injectors - covered under special warrantee for up north cars - but not covered because i moved south. Honda did cover all but 150 after talking to district manager.
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