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Discussion Starter #1
I've been lurking on this site for some time now and generally all my issues/questions are found and answered, but this has me stumped.

I bought this CR-V a few months back with some issues and I've ironed out most of them but it suddenly decided it would crank but not start. It's getting fuel but no spark. I've replaced the crank position sensor, the ignition control module, plug wires, plugs, rotor, cap and swapped the distributor housing with one I picked up from a salvage yard off of a CR-V that was wrecked (obviously it ran lol) and still no change. The 15a fuse is good as well. The only thing I couldn't actually test was if the coil was sparking as I don't know a way to test that without one of those spark tester spark plugs... and I don't have one.

Earlier today I used a test light to check for power in the distributor to the coil and ICM and those where fine, but the switched signal to the coil pack seemed odd in my opinion. The light comes on when the key is in the on position, but it turns off when you try to crank the vehicle. You'd think that switched signal should light up on the tester when you're cranking the vehicle instead of the opposite way around. If that is the issue I have no idea how to fix it. I did check to make sure I had put the wires on the ICM properly and that checks out just fine.... but now I have no idea what else to check or do.

Anyone else have any ideas or suggestions??

Also, just in case anyone asks yes I have checked the timing and yes I had the valves adjusted. I don't think that's relevant but I have been known to be wrong lol
 

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I'm guessing that you have the 1st CRV. You can take out one of the spark plug & Use a long nose vice grip it to a metal part of the engine then connect a spark plug lead to it then you can check for spark. Check also the colour of the spark. How many miles on the clock?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
That's a pretty good idea, I'll have to try that out.
Yeah, it's a 99 and it's got 130~140 thou on it. Don't remember the exact number.
 

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FYI the spark tester tools are like $5 at most places (I bought 3 from harbor frieght last time they were on sale

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The check engine light doesn't come on at all.

I'm going to ask around to see if I know anyone that has a spark tester or knows a place to buy one in town.
 

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http://easyautodiagnostics.com/honda/2.2L-2.3L/honda-ignition-system-tests-1

This is an excellent article for that generation of CRV. I believe yours is a 1999.
My guess would be the coil.
If you crank the engine over with the distributor cap off or any of the spark plugs wires not grounded or attached to a spark plug that is not grounded, you can burn out the coil.
If you need to crank the engine over with the starter (to line up the rotor screw ect) be sure to pull the proper fuse first or disconnect the low voltage connector going to the distributor.
The ignition coils on that generation are know to be a problem. I don't believe you have to buy a Honda brand coil.
You can do somewhat of a test on that coil with a good accurate multi-meter on the ohm setting. If the readings are even the slightest bit off, the coil is most likely bad.
I can't remember the reading so you will have to look them up.
So, my bet is on the ignition coil or the igniter (ignition control module which takes the place of points).
Buffalo4
 

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The check engine light doesn't come on at all.

I'm going to ask around to see if I know anyone that has a spark tester or knows a place to buy one in town.
If the MIL light doesn’t come on and go out when you turn the ignition switch on, there might be a problem with the PCM. Check and make sure the bulb isn’t blown before going after that. If you have a scanner, plug it in and see if it communicates.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Buffalo4 - That was the exact article I used to test the ignition system. I don't have anything to test the hertz as it mentioned in that article but I did all the other tests before that.
I replaced the ICM with a brand new unit and since I have two different coils I've tried to crank the vehicle with each of them with no difference. I have had all three of the coils checked on a multimeter and it's been a while so I don't recall what the numbers where.

BDub - PCM or ECU?
I don't have a scanner but I can get one.

otto - I'm guessing you're talkin about the main fuel relay... I've been trying to find a way to test that with a test light or a multimeter but I haven't found anything really. This isn't my first Honda so I've had to deal with MFR issues before, I actually pulled that out and attempted to resolder it but my iron was crap. Now that I have a new iron I wanted to wait till I found a test for it to tackle it again. Any suggestions?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I wouldn't really think there's any issue with the MFR cause the pump is priming and I can smell fuel on the spark plugs.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
When I went to check to see if the check engine light came on it was after I'd given up for that day and after dark... so I didn't notice the fuel pump fuse was still pulled out. I just put the fuse back and the check engine light comes on like it should.

I'm going to order the new coil once my unrelated refund is processed through Rockauto....
 

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BDub - PCM or ECU?
I don't have a scanner but I can get one.
Engine Control Module or Powertrain Contol Module depending on what the manufacturer wanted to call it. Whatever you call it, it still does the same job.

You said the MIL light is working. Does it stay on after the bulb check? If it does, a scanner could put you on the right track.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Naw, the CEL doesn't stay on. I wish it where easy enough to just throw a code lol

I figured you where talking about the ECU but it's better to be safe and ask to make sure. My Mothers Grand Am has an ECU and a couple other abbreviated computer modules and while I've never known of a Honda to have one this is the newest one I've owned so maybe it had something else hiding in it somewhere I hadn't found yet lol
 

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There was one Forum member who found loose fuses or relays...better check 'em all!
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I did check for spark at the plugs, that was a nope. I did attempt to check for spark at the coil but my helper had already gone and I couldn't get it propped up at any place where I could see the tester while I was trying to crank it.

I did find a blown fuse for the ignition but I didn't check any other fuses. I will though.
 

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I did check for spark at the plugs, that was a nope. I did attempt to check for spark at the coil but my helper had already gone and I couldn't get it propped up at any place where I could see the tester while I was trying to crank it.

I did find a blown fuse for the ignition but I didn't check any other fuses. I will though.
Which fuse did you find blown? Location, number and size? Was it Fuse #9 (15A) IGN Coil in the interior fuse box?
Well, at least now you know the reason for a no spark. Hopefully, that new fuse will hold and you get a spark.
Remember that you can burn out even a new ignition coil by cranking the engine over with the starter if the distributor cap is off, any of the spark plug wires are not connected to a grounded spark plug or, not grounded, unless you pull the ignition fuse or disconnect the low voltage connector at the distributor first.
Hopefully an ignition component that you replaced was the cause of the blown fuse, or perhaps something you did blew the fuse.
Buffalo4
PS: Ignition coil resistance at 68F-- Primary (0.63--0.77 ohms) Secondary (12.8--19.2 K ohms). If the coil is really cold, the resistance will be lower and if it is very hot, it will be higher.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
It was #9 and there was no change after I replaced that fuse. I have a feeling I probably burnt out all three of the old coils I had laying around cause I did crank the vehicle with the cap off. I wasn't aware that it was harmful or that I should even check to see if it could be until I was a couple weeks into diagnosing the issues and I kept coming across that being a well pointed out problem. Live and learn but hopefully when I get the brand new coil it should crank right over. If not, I'll just have to start diagnosing all over again.
I never had any issues in my old Integra with the coil burning out due to cranking it without the cap, but it did have a lot of issues with the coil.
 
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