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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have 2008 CRV EX-L Navi
The dreaded can not read disc screen hit after about 2012. I tried the disassemble and clean.
my cheap butt decided on the. Seicane 10” unit with Built in Car play.
2006-2011 HONDA CRV 9 inch Andriod 10.0 Radio GPS Navigatin System with bluetooth Digital TV OBD2 DVR Backup Camera TPMS RDS AUX Steering Wheel Control 4G WifiAndroid 10.0, 2G+32G, Quad-core CPU, IPS Screen, Plug and play, SWC, Built-in wireless CarPlay Android Auto 30EQ DSP, Support FM/AM/RDS Radio, AHD Camera, Split Screen Display(Model:A502N-L)

they Said works with factory sub and amp.
And doesn’t work with factory Backup cam.
It does work with steer wheel control kinda (no Mode) just Vol and Channel

Their cable plug into the car harness.
Easy enough.
but they are tapping into the cars amp from the HIGHLEVEL lines from the Headunit.
really sounds like it’s over driving the speakers. It’s loud as hell and breaks up bad over vol at 5. You can’t lower the volume below a loud talking level. (I ain’t young no more)
Several emails to China they were no help ! and voided this question from my list of my questions for help.

I found the DSP app. Found a place to adjust a USER1 setting and turn it down thru the software. Ok cool.
but now the volume only goes like up 10%. At default it goes to 100% but starts at 20%. It’s 20% or silence.
That’s just how it is. I guess.
So I sprung for there wireless backup cam. I thought it would be easier than the hardwire to install.
it wasn’t!
you have to tie to the-reverse light to power the rear transmitter. That was big fun. Alot of work to take the back of your CRV apart.
you have to fin a backup wire at the receiver unit up front.
again no help with the emails. They told me to go to dealer for wiring help.
another day googling to find a reverse light tap at the front. I gave up and just tapped in to the backup wire as it ran down frame at the drivers door.
after all that BS the camera was a POS
Gadget Automotive design Motor vehicle Vehicle Air travel

They are sending me a new POS free.
Of course you have to take back apart again. Oh joy!..

After more Googling I found a thread over at the CRZ forum.
was able to get the Factory backup cam to work. With 3wires!
I used their plug cut and RCA cable connect the Crv Cam video wire to their with and then the cam need battery volts
The thread show the connection of the crv plug. ( which it the backup trigger wire I needed earlier DOH )

So the unit is in looks good to me.
Some things I don’t like about the features or how the unit works is:

No user Manual
The Sound Work around.

You CANNOT adjust any of the screens.
you stuck with their Home Screen.

You can’t move any icons around from screen to screen.

So you must flip thru screen pages to get wher you want.

several email and they confirmed it.
repy was “Sorry but you cannot change screens or icons”
I guess that’s how it is.

I will search for a work around.

hope this help anyone thinking about a Siecane or buying from them.
you will be on your own.

Rectangle Glass Metal Gas Aluminium

Hers the link to the CRZ forum on the camera work around


Super Moderator - How may I help?
5,111 Posts
Thank you for the detailed write up and advice! Sorry you had to go through all that, and still not happy with the results.

2008 Honda CR-V LX 2WD Auto
22 Posts
I think you are correct about the unit driving the audio with high-level outputs to the amplifiers. Some of the other brands of these headunits offer an optional harness adapter that will allow you to plug the "pre-amp" outputs (RCA cables) back into your factory wiring harness (instead of the high-level outputs from the headunit's built-in amplifier) to work with the factory amp. It might be worth inquiring about. It will basically look just like the harness they originally supplied, but instead of the wires coming from the stereo to the speaker inputs on the factory harness, they have wired up some male RCA cables to the connector that hooks to the factory harness side and have simply omitted the wires coming out from the headunit's built-in amplifier.

Or if you're handy with wiring, you can probably DIY it if you buy some male RCA tips with bare wire ends and splice them into the adapter harness that came with the stereo.

Once you're able to hook up to the pre-amp outputs instead of the high-level outputs, you should be able to reset your DSP settings to something more natural/usable. You may also be able to tweak the sound/amplifier output from a factory settings menu. On my unit, you can access it by going to Settings > Car > Factory Settings and entering the password 126. It may be different on your device though. Just be cautious when messing around with these settings as it may be possible to soft-brick the device if you aren't careful.

You should also be able to bypass the terrible interface screens by installing a third-party launcher from the Google Play store and making it your default launcher. The Agama launcher and the CarWebGuru lancher seem to be very popular and I might give one of them a try, but I've been just using Nova Launcher on my Android headunit because that's what I use on my phone and it's already familiar to me.
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