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Not-a-Mechanic
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Battery voltage is just a general indication of system health. Since you've replaced the battery, I believe you are on the right track looking for parasitic draw. The system will draw a small amount when off, but it should hold enough charge for a month or so.
 

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So to recap I have had the new battery tested along with the alternator both tested good. I have put a dc amp meter on the negative cable in series and it shows about .3 amps for about 30 seconds then drops to 0.023-0.027 amps dc. I am lost I pulled the ac relay not sure why but heard it could be a problem anyway I’m lost anyone have any ideas.
 

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Ok I also found it has an aftermarket remote starter but it has been on the car for 10 years or so with no problems and my amp draw doesn’t relly show anything
 

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17 CRV EXL AWD, 14 CRV EXL AWD
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Battery voltage 12.4 v after driving about 20 min I’m lost
Ok, 12.4 volts shortly after driving it around for the day says the charge system is functioning. Next is to check the voltage later tonight and in the morning. I would expect the voltage to be around 12.2 to 12.3 in the morning. Since you have checked the load while it's sleeping at 27mA which is normal a lower overnight voltage would indicate a bad cell in the battery. The only way to really verify it is to let it sit with a cable off overnight to eliminate any chance of a parasitic draw.
 

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Had same problem with 2005 CRV. The AC was not working as many people has already mentioned, it could be AC related.
Check this short video. hope it helps.

Going to mechanic. will post the results.
 

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Hi,
I have a Honda CRV (2003). Lately the battery has been becoming flat overnight so I have replaced it with a new one. I have tested the alternator with a meter and this is working fine.
The problem of becoming flat overnight has contniued so I have tested to see what drain is on the battery. This showed a drain of 67 mA. Reading around I see that is way too much and therefore there is a problem with my electrics.
I kept the meter attached and went through the internal fuses taking them out individually however the drain of 67mA remained constant.
I then started going through the fuses under the bonnet and when I removed the 'BACKUP' Fuse the drain dropped to around 17mA.
I have also read that this fuse relates to the stereo,alarm,central locking which all stopped working when the fuse was removed. The car starts normally with the fuse removed. I replaced the fuse and the drain returned to 67mA , I then removed the power to the stereo and this made no difference to the drain.

The car is standard with no add ons, everything is OEM on it and there is no tow bar.

My questions are :
What is the normal drain on the battery ?
What drain should there be left when the backup fuse is removed ?
If the drain is due to the things connected to the backup fuse which electrical items does the fuse relate to and how would I test them ?
Is there an easy way to identify the problem drain on my battery ?

Sorry for the long post just wanted to make you aware of the things I have already tried.
This post is helpful (I hope) as the dealer has just replaced my battery again on my 2017 CR-V with under 24k miles. The first (original) battery went dead in February 2019, and they simply replaced it, saying the original probably had a defect. That one lasted only 12 months. The dealer said they checked all systems and they are fine, and I probably have not been driving the car enough. But the battery kept going dead at seemingly random occasions.

I checked the electrolyte (which they never did, as they absolutely insist that these batteries are "non-serviceable") and the level was way down in all cells. I topped them off with distilled water and took it to the dealer again. When the car cranked fine one time and an hour later was dead for them, they finally believed me. I don;t know how the battery passed a load test before when the cell plates were half exposed. Anyway, it seems to me there must be a parasitic drain, although the dealer claims they checked it and found none above what is normal. They concluded that the second battery was also defective, and replaced it. I will ask them to check on that system element described by the other comment here. It seems that Honda must be putting minimally sized batteries in the new cars if a solution is for the owners to install a bigger capacity battery (another dealer recommendation).

How can we trust our car to start when it has sat at the airport for a week or so while we are on a trip? If Honda wants to maintain their quality image, they need to provide a solution.
 

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Welcome to the forum! Moving to the Gen 2 Section.
 
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