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2006 Cr-v EX 2007 Cr-v EX-L
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
It just happen in the morning (especially if cold) battery light stays for few seconds or sometimes longer. After quick rev battery light go off. One time it stayed even during drive about one minute which give me a concern. If battery light stay on charging read 11.2 V if it goes off it reads 14.4. I changed ELD stay same I wanted to check connection but access to alternator is really pain in the ass. My question is it alternator giving up or something else ? How you can approach this alternator without loosing mind or fingers ? This is 2006 Crv
 

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2007 CRV AWD
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When was the last time the battery was changed?
What is the date code of the battery?
The battery is one concern.

The battery light or alternator light or charging light (all the same thing) is on and voltage is at 11.2 V then circuit is working as it should. It is indicating there is a charging issue. What is the cause of this issue is another thing. Check battery for loose connections. Clean battery posts and cable terminals. Follow negative battery cable to chassis ground and clean contact points. That should remove possibility of voltage drop across bad connections. Turn on head light when battery light is on and check voltage across battery. Then there is checking the connectors. Yes, difficult to get to. But, it has to be done to properly troubleshoot. Or throw the parts canon at it and hope for the best??? For theory on how the alternator works, one can search youtube for videos on Honda alternators.

Approach alternator with care. Listen for any squeals. Check belt tension. Check the belt.
Good luck on this one.
 

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Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
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14,182 Posts
11.2VDC during the non-charging mode of the system is actually LOW. A good battery should read 12.5VDC or more in the morning.

Have the battery LOAD TESTED. Have you been monitoring the electrolyte level? It tends to decline in hot weather, but you don't notice the issue until the weather cools.

Test the battery, and note the things that Avisitor and ajchien mentioned.

Post back with what you find.

PS: Kudos for actually measuring the voltage. That helped a LOT.
What is the voltage before starting, after an overnight rest?
 

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2017 CRV Touring - Pearl White w Black Interior
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11.2VDC during the non-charging mode of the system is actually LOW. A good battery should read 12.5VDC or more in the morning.

Have the battery LOAD TESTED. Have you been monitoring the electrolyte level? It tends to decline in hot weather, but you don't notice the issue until the weather cools.

Test the battery, and note the things that Avisitor and ajchien mentioned.

Post back with what you find.

PS: Kudos for actually measuring the voltage. That helped a LOT.
What is the voltage before starting, after an overnight rest?
(y) (y)

My bet: the battery has a failing cell in it.. and should be properly load tested and verified to confirm battery quality and function.

Of course if it isn't that it is one of the other short list items already shared here to evaluate. :)
 

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03 CRV
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Perhaps I should have elaborated. If your belt or tensioner is worn, the belt may not fully grab and turn the alternator pulley during initial startup. A pulley not turning fast enough will look like a failed alternator and turn the light on. Once the belt fully grabs onto the alternator pulley, and starts spinning sufficiently, the alternator starts working and the light turns off. I’m just proposing one possibility why the light may come on for a second or so at initial startup and then go away.

there are marks to look at on the auto tensioner to see if the belt is in spec. In addition, if the tensioner pulley is clearly wobbling or making noise then it has gone bad. sometimes the first indication is a belt squeal sound at first startup.

with your story, itll take a minute to check those things out before going into whatever your usual alternator electrical troubleshooting is.
 

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2006 Cr-v EX 2007 Cr-v EX-L
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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
When was the last time the battery was changed?
What is the date code of the battery?
The battery is one concern.

The battery light or alternator light or charging light (all the same thing) is on and voltage is at 11.2 V then circuit is working as it should. It is indicating there is a charging issue. What is the cause of this issue is another thing. Check battery for loose connections. Clean battery posts and cable terminals. Follow negative battery cable to chassis ground and clean contact points. That should remove possibility of voltage drop across bad connections. Turn on head light when battery light is on and check voltage across battery. Then there is checking the connectors. Yes, difficult to get to. But, it has to be done to properly troubleshoot. Or throw the parts canon at it and hope for the best??? For theory on how the alternator works, one can search youtube for videos on Honda alternators.

Approach alternator with care. Listen for any squeals. Check belt tension. Check the belt.
Good luck on this one.
Battery has almost 3 years or 3 years already
Sticker is E-19 11-19 whatever that means
I already clean battery terminals and ground to chassis
I will do alternator connection on Saturday....belt changed last year and tension looks fine but .....who knows.
Thank you I will do my best and let know how it goes....
ahhh should mention my CRV has 300K on odometer and winters are coooold and snowy :)
I bought in case alternator from US OE Honda but refurbished looks good...
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
11.2VDC during the non-charging mode of the system is actually LOW. A good battery should read 12.5VDC or more in the morning.

Have the battery LOAD TESTED. Have you been monitoring the electrolyte level? It tends to decline in hot weather, but you don't notice the issue until the weather cools.

Test the battery, and note the things that Avisitor and ajchien mentioned.

Post back with what you find.

PS: Kudos for actually measuring the voltage. That helped a LOT.
What is the voltage before starting, after an overnight rest?
In the morning battery vol is 12.4V you know in Canada with this mechanics/shops I will pay more to test battery than I pay for brand new battery.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Perhaps I should have elaborated. If your belt or tensioner is worn, the belt may not fully grab and turn the alternator pulley during initial startup. A pulley not turning fast enough will look like a failed alternator and turn the light on. Once the belt fully grabs onto the alternator pulley, and starts spinning sufficiently, the alternator starts working and the light turns off. I’m just proposing one possibility why the light may come on for a second or so at initial startup and then go away.

there are marks to look at on the auto tensioner to see if the belt is in spec. In addition, if the tensioner pulley is clearly wobbling or making noise then it has gone bad. sometimes the first indication is a belt squeal sound at first startup.

with your story, itll take a minute to check those things out before going into whatever your usual alternator electrical troubleshooting is.
I got you it makes a lot of sense.(I put new belt last year) Of course will check it but it happens only in the colder mornings when temp is 0-5 celsius and winter is here almost ...brrrrr :)
 

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I got you it makes a lot of sense.(I put new belt last year) Of course will check it but it happens only in the colder mornings when temp is 0-5 celsius and winter is here almost ...brrrrr :)
Another thing that comes to mind when you say the battery light goes off with higher revs Is that the alternator may be barely producing enough current at lower revs. If you’re at 14.4, this might be a time when turning on all the loads on the car, headlights, rear defrost, blower motor, radio, wipers etc. and see if the voltage takes a nose dive indicating that there isn’t enough current being made.
 

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Battery has almost 3 years or 3 years already
Sticker is E-19 11-19 whatever that means
I already clean battery terminals and ground to chassis
I will do alternator connection on Saturday....belt changed last year and tension looks fine but .....who knows.
Thank you I will do my best and let know how it goes....
ahhh should mention my CRV has 300K on odometer and winters are coooold and snowy :)
I bought in case alternator from US OE Honda but refurbished looks good...
11-19 probably means November 2019.
300k? Nephew's 2007 has about 250k (not sure).
Had to replace his alternator. Left him stuck on side of road in the middle of night
Got his call and went out onto highway. Side of the road, swapped battery to just get him home
Next day, bought alternator and changed it. Not easy but not as difficult as starter.
Hope you get it fixed soon. And this does not happen to you.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
11-19 probably means November 2019.
300k? Nephew's 2007 has about 250k (not sure).
Had to replace his alternator. Left him stuck on side of road in the middle of night
Got his call and went out onto highway. Side of the road, swapped battery to just get him home
Next day, bought alternator and changed it. Not easy but not as difficult as starter.
Hope you get it fixed soon. And this does not happen to you.
Yeah I do not want have story like that...I found something..
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 · (Edited)
Ok I found something. I went to check battery (shop said is very strong battery) and after putting battery back a wire just snapped. This is one of the ground /negative terminal. one is going to chassis and this one I have no idea where. If someone could give me a tip where this wire should be attached ? I am wondering how is she driving with this wire disconnected...
Automotive tire Motor vehicle Hood Bicycle part Bumper
 

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How about a few more pictures from different angles? The blue circle obscures what I’m looking at, and of course, inside the blue circle it looks out of focus to me.

That said, if it is part to the ground cable of the battery, it will have 2 legs. One will go down to the transmission housing, the other will go to the driver side of the car chassis.
 

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I take picture as soon as I back home from work but you thinking good it is the cable going from negative terminal of battery...so one end is going to driver side (chasis) and second like you said probably to transmition...I post pictures soon..thank you !!!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
How about a few more pictures from different angles? The blue circle obscures what I’m looking at, and of course, inside the blue circle it looks out of focus to me.

That said, if it is part to the ground cable of the battery, it will have 2 legs. One will go down to the transmission housing, the other will go to the driver side of the car chassis.
Hood Motor vehicle Automotive design Automotive exterior Gas
Motor vehicle Automotive tire Gas Wood Auto part
Hood Automotive tire Motor vehicle Automotive design Rim
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
I hope these pictures are better..if you could guide me more or less where is he going ( I know he is going bottom of battery and then toward engine/block (you said transmission housing). Tomorrow I take all plastics from the bottom so I can have better view because from top I see not much...Thank you for you time man !! ajchien
 

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Yes, that is a broken ground wire that goes to the transmission. The bottom most portion of that wire is without insulation. It is not unusual to see it corroded due to the elements over the years. Look down the positive side of the battery below the battery box, you should see a bracket on the transmission, probably with remnants of the uninsulated portion of the cable on it.

Pretty sure your life will be easier if you take the battery, battery tray out and the tube between the air filter box and throttle body. Should give you more room to see and work.

i believe it’ll be around $60 from a dealership or $20 aftermarket.

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