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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Car was dead, 2003 CRV sat unused for about a year. I tried charging up the old battery with no luck.
I put in a new battery and started right up.
Was surging and battery light came on at one point.
Gave it a oil change and new filters, put in some gas treatment (startron)
and filled it with fresh fuel.
Drove it and it’s settled down and idles nicely.
Still have the Battery light, is there anything else it could be besides needing a new alternator?
No corrosion on battery leads, is there a fuse worth checking?
Thanks!
Car is new to me but I want to get it squared away. Would like to change alternator as last resort!
Db
 

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I am sure you will need a alternator. With a new battery that is fully charged check the voltage at the battery with the car running. It should be around 14 volts. (battery needs to be fully charged).
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks all, yes above 2000 rpm the light goes out. The car is a 2003 with about 130,000 miles on it.
Not surprised it may need a new alternator. Was hoping there could be something else to check first.
Like I said it sat stone dead for quite a while.
 

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I am sure you will need a alternator. With a new battery that is fully charged check the voltage at the battery with the car running. It should be around 14 volts. (battery needs to be fully charged).
battery does not need to be fully charged. Regardless of charge state of the battery the voltage will increase dramatically when engine is running versus when off. If it does not the Alternator is not working correctly. Even with a very low battery once running the voltage will be well over 13V. And as battery charges will increase till it settles between 14 and 15V

Simple test is start the engine and use a volt meter at battery terminals (touch batter terminals not wire connectors on them). If its reading well above 13V (if battery is low on charge) or 14+V it is fine. If it's not then replace alternator.

Whoever let that thing sit dead for a couple years needs to be SMACKED. Guaranteed more reliable than whatever they were driving (likely needed an alternator when parked so instead of spending a couple hours and $150 they let it sit)

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Thanks everyone!
On the road for a couple of days but when I get back I’ll try the volt meter test.
My GF got a new car and kept the CRV for her teen daughter (not old enough to drive yet), it probably sat for 9 months, I kept telling her she needed to run it, it had an engine light on so she was reluctant to drive it so car sat.
Probably my fault for not getting involved sooner, so now I am.
I won’t tell her she should have....better off just fixing it myself.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks! This place is a great knowledge base. I’ll plan on doing an alternator. First I’ll double check the voltage at the battery, double check all the fuses. Look for corrosion on the wires, belt condition/tension.
I bet there is a tutorial on doing the alternator? See lots of YouTube videos on it.
Thanks again.
 

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Belt tension isnt adjustable on 2002 and new. Single serpentine belt.

Not too bad to do:

remove one of the cables from the battery and place it so it cant accidently contact it.

remove the belt (worst part of the hole job IMHO lol)

Unbolt PS pump (3 bolts accessed through the pulley) and remove line bracket bolt at rear of valve cover. lay PS pump out of the way.

Remove the radiator overflow bottle by removing bolt, little hose and pulling up out of the clips (this is needed to have enough room to get alternator out).

Disconnect nut holding large wire to alternator and remove wire, unplug connector as well.

Remove Alternator mounting bolts.

Carefully maneuver alternator up and out, reverse procedure to install.

Side notes: if you have a floor jack and peice of wood (do NOT jack engine up without wood between jack and oil pan), you can make your life a little easier by using jack ti support engine and remove the engine mount upper bracket. Gives more room resulting in less cuss words when dealing with removal and install of the belt.



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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Thanks! I was thinking there might be room with out taking out radiator, really would like to avoid that, looks like the belt will be the struggle. There is an O’Riely auto parts close by that sells a alternator with a lifetime guarantee. Was thinking of using that. The belt looks kind of sketchy so I’ll swap that out wile it’s apart. What’s the trick on the tensioner? I see people using a long wrench to move the pulley? Is that a special tool? Thanks again.
 

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1.5-2.0

Out of town for the holiday so cant look it up and give you the exact labor time (we have the same program for labor times that dealerships use).

But I did mine in under an hour so that's my guess on labor time.

Why would you take to the dealership??? If your not comfortable doing it yourself find a independant shop, will cost half as much.

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
1.5-2.0

Out of town for the holiday so cant look it up and give you the exact labor time (we have the same program for labor times that dealerships use).

But I did mine in under an hour so that's my guess on labor time.

Why would you take to the dealership??? If your not comfortable doing it yourself find a independant shop, will cost half as much.

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Thank you!
I am not comfortable doing it myself, yes will be taking it to an independent shop. Was just curious of typical labor time before I get a quote.
 
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