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just completed my first rear diff change. 2010 CRV EX.

Definitely an easy process, although the bolts were stuck so bad that I need to back onto some rhino ramps to get better leverage to loosen them. Seemed like water or salt like stuck them to the casing. Once I got those off it was a breeze, I bought the hand pump from earlier in this thread (from amazon) and it worked like a charm.

Thanks BlackPearl!
 

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I always use something like this little hand pump View attachment 7946
Just finished changing on a 2012 CRV with this hand pump last weekend. It worked great... not 1 drop spilled.
For those looking to do same with 2012, 2013.. they essentially changed the drain plug washer to 18mm from 20mm and now charges 3x or 4x the price for the smaller washer. So you will need a 20mm washer for the fill plug and 18mm washer for the drain plug.
Also, I noticed there was some kind of magnetic anode on the drain plug?? which picked up small metal pieces/dust.
At least I guessed that's what it was and cleaned up that part of the plug before reinserting drain plug.

Hope this helps.

oh, and the drain plug is on the right side of the car, while the fill plug is on the left.
Also, tapping the ratchet with hammer worked wonder for me on the drain plug.
 

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Grab the old Washer and run down to your local Carquest and buy a packet of 4 for cheap.
 

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1.jpg 2.jpg Thanks BlackPearl! With your guide this turned out be a fairly easy and fun project.

I have a 2013 CRV. I have attached the pictures of the two (18mm and 20mm) washers.

I did not see the previous note so I landed up buying two 20mm washers. They worked out fine on my 2013 CRV. There was enough room for the 20mm washer in place of the 18mm.

Next time I will make sure I get the 18mm washer. Do you guys think leaving the 20mm in there would lead to problems down the road?
 

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Probably not, but if you do encounter a leak down the road, you will know why!
 

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One more big thanks to Black Pearl (excellent help) and a couple comments...

2012 CRV, 20,000 miles, finally got my second MM call for maintenance. B16. B16? Grabbed manual and discovered "Change 4 wheel drive oil". Huh? Better head to Google. Ended up here.

My first service, done by dealer, cost almost $90. $90 for oil change and rotation? Really? I wasn't anxious to find out what changing differential fluid would add to that.

-- Bought oil pump at local hardware store. $6.19. Plenty of volume with each pump, didn't take long at all. Brand I bought was "Invincible Marine" marketed as lower unit gear lube pump for outboards. Worked great.

-- Two quarts of Dual Pump fluid at dealer - $25.00. Parts manager told me I didn't need new crush washers for differential. (Hey, that's what he said.)

-- Oil filter - $6.00. And he did want me to use a new crush washer for oil change. N/C on the washer.

-- One 5 quart container of 0w20 Mobil 1 - $25.00.

Bottom line --- Diff fluid change and oil change for under $60. Easy peasy. And I know the job was done right (can you say that about your dealer?). Even cracking the differential bolts loose wasn't as bad as I'd feared. And, since I did it myself, I think I can get them off next time, too.

One more note... my differential was slightly overfilled and I was somewhat surprised by fluid when I pulled the top fill plug. No big deal.

Thanks to all. Now, about that tire rotation.... Tomorrow, for sure.
 

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First off, thanks to Black Pearl for the guide.

I had to chime in because I did this and the atx fluid over the weekend and it did not go entirely as planned. The atx fluid drain/fill went fine; the biggest issue that I had was trying to use the "oil snout" from autozone. Since there was no hole in the oil bottle, it would mostly just gulp oil down, but occasionally it would get caught in a vacuum and fill the hose up to the valve. Mostly an inconvenience.

Now for the diff fluid change.... Already figuring that the oil snout would need to be finessed, I was already on guard. I didn't find there to be nearly as much room under the vehicle as others suggest. Once I finally found a spot above the fill port, but oil would just not go. I couldn't get it to drain into the housing or back into the bottle and in the end lost a few ounces; it was very bazaar and frustrating. At this point, I realize that I had kept the original length of hose (12") whereas the picture from SunnyD showed something less than that. I trimmed the hose to better fit the location under the car that I had found. While I again encountered the vacuum issues, I was at least able to get the job done.

I've read this whole thread several time and did not remember anyone else having these issues so I figured I'd throw it out here to see if other saw it or could see if I was doing something obviously incorrect. The oil snout was definitely not the amazing tool I was expecting.
 

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I used to pour the fluid in with a long tube. Best practice is to have a bolt (to be used as a stopper) close by, so you don't make as much of a mess.


BUT


The fluid pumps are the best. Once you stop pumping the excess goes back into the pump. And because the tubes are shorter, even messy guys like me stay reasonably fluid-free from spills.

I now have three pumps, one for gas, one for ATF, and one for diff. At $7 - $10 USD they are worth their weight in gold.
 

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Very good item, excellent contribution and relationship to the graunching

BP I congratulate you on the subject, very well explained and makes me want to do it right away how easy it looks, I congratulate you and thank you.
Well the issue of investigating graunching all comment that is solved with this oil change, I hope to do this weekend and check it out, of course, thanks to your contribution.
thank you very much :cool:
 

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My 2008 EX-L was approaching the 15000 mile mark since the last time I changed the differential fluid. It was cold here in Chicago on Sunday but about to get much colder. Didn't want to go lay on the unheated garage floor but gutted it out and changed the rear differential fluid as per these instructions.
The cold and some minor spillage couldn't dampen the feeling of accomplishment.
It couldn't be easier and for anybody thinking about it go for it.
Thank you BP and others who have contributed.
 

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View attachment 8743 View attachment 8744 Thanks BlackPearl! With your guide this turned out be a fairly easy and fun project.

I have a 2013 CRV. I have attached the pictures of the two (18mm and 20mm) washers.

I did not see the previous note so I landed up buying two 20mm washers. They worked out fine on my 2013 CRV. There was enough room for the 20mm washer in place of the 18mm.

Next time I will make sure I get the 18mm washer. Do you guys think leaving the 20mm in there would lead to problems down the road?
I did the same thing recently and would love to know if this ever turned out to be an issue.
 

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How do I know if it needs fluid change?
Just picked used one at 36 k miles...
 

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If you don't have service records on your "new" car, You can do it three ways:


1. Be proactive, change the diff (and all fluids) JUST BECAUSE.

2. Be wary of any moaning from the rear especially on tight turns when cold. (Moan = change it)

3. Wait for the Maintenance Minder to tell you to change it. (Code 6, right guys?)
 

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At 13,000 miles. I received the message from the maintenance minder that my rear differential oil needed to be changed on my 2012 CRV. As it was inspection time anyway, here in Pennsylvania. I had them change the rear differential oil. I was shocked to find a $90 bill added onto my inspection fees. As I am retired and every penny counts. Your post was well done and will save me a ton. Thank you so much.
 

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Partly my fault (for being uninformed), partly the fault of the dealership service guys (for not ever recommending anything to me). 2010 CR-V EX 4WD I bought brand new. Took it to the dealership for oil changes the first few times. They never recommended diff service. They would just change my oil and send me on my way (of course they'd reset the maintenance minders). I never got the code 6 MMI. I did the last oil change myself and started to research the other fluid intervals, which is how I ended up here. Now with 29,3xx miles, the diff fluid has never been changed. No whines or noises and only normal road driving, but an understatement to say that I'm overdue. Plan on doing DIY this service ASAP. Hoping all is well.
 

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I changed the diff fluid today (again, per my previous post, had 29,3xx miles on the original diff fluid) and it looked very clean. Used that yellow Flotool gear oil adapter that screws onto the gear oil bottle, which made it pretty easy. Will now change every other oil change.

Question - I live in San Diego and the CR-V is a local grocery getter. CR-V has never seen snow and very rarely sees any rain. Is it possible that my diff fluid is so clean at this really high mileage (for diff fluid) as my 4WD is rarely, if ever, engaged?
 

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Question - I live in San Diego and the CR-V is a local grocery getter. CR-V has never seen snow and very rarely sees any rain. Is it possible that my diff fluid is so clean at this really high mileage (for diff fluid) as my 4WD is rarely, if ever, engaged?
Maybe...

The older RT4WD system is Passive, meaning it only kicks in when there is a difference in front and rear wheel speed. The diff will generate heat as the clutches grab (thus there is an overheat shut-off). I'm sure the diff worked some, but probably not for long periods of time.


Remember that the MM shows codes other than oil at simple mileages, so it is totally possible that your fluid wasn't worn. Before the MM, Honda recommended CR-V diff fluid changes at 90K miles (!) and most owners would hear the moaning at 30 K miles or less....
 

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I agree with Carbuff, that it was probably not due yet, but it can't hurt to be a little pro active. You certainly do not need it every 2nd oil change, that's just a waste of money.

These are literally bullet proof. If you heard the moaning, once you change out the fluid, it's 100% perfect again.

Don't worry so much, you bought a Honda, your gonna enjoy it's reliability!

I know, I show this pic a lot, but this is what I put my 2000 CRV through, and even after 11 years of ownership, never had a problem with the rear diff, engine or transmission.

 

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Thanks to all of the info here I just changed the diff and trans fluid on my new (to me) 2007 CRV with 65K. Love that the ATF change is so easy. My Jeep and Explorer both involve the usual "drop the pan, get messy" method. The ATF needed changing, not sure about the diff as both crush washers looked new, but I had no maintenance records so I changed the fluids.

I used to have a boat with a Mercruiser 4 banger and the only way to change the oil was by pulling it out of the dipstick tube, so I bought a small electric pump that hooks up to the battery. Using this pump on the CRV diff fluid refill was a snap. Also, in order to minumize garage floor cleanup I use an old plastic washing machine pan under my drain pans.

Going to change the oil 3K from now, probably with M1 0-20 (live north of Chicago and winter is coming). Coolant looks good. Should I go ahead and change the brake fluid?
 

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Welcome to the Forum.


I'd say go ahead and change the brake fluid since you don't have maintenance records.

The Blue Honda coolant is very robust, it always looks clean. But because you are near to the "time" component of recommended maintenance, I'd consider changing that too (one drain/refill), either now or next spring.


PS, by chance, did you see what services the Maintenance Minder is suggesting for the next oil change?
 
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