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Carbuff2, thanks for the welcome. Just love the info on this site. The MM for oil indicates 90%, and I am pretty sure the oil had been changed right before I bought it. I know for the diff, trans and coolant people recommend using Honda products (which I did use/will use). Do I need to use Honda brake fluid or is DOT 3 ok? Also, I will probably be changing the brake pads in the next 3 - 5K. Should I change the brake fluid before or after?
 

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Everything in Moderation
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There was a situation a few years ago regards Toyota and Honda brake cylinders where it was suggested that Honda brake fluid is better. I had used DOT3 before that. Now I buy Honda brand from the online dealers, it's only a little more than auto-parts-store prices.

If pad replacement is imminent you could wait. (unless your schedule means doing the job in the cold of winter....BRRR)

Read some of the topics here on Brake Service and Caliper Maintenance.

Your oil is 90% good, did you note the next imminent services? (Letter codes after the oil%)
 

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Gen4 rear diff fill and drain holes

Excellent original post blackpearl. On Gen 4s the fill and drain holes seem to have switched positions. Attached a Gen4 picture to the collection.

Gen4 rear diff fill and drain holes.jpg
 

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At 30K miles on my 2012 CRV, while I was performing the drain and fill for the transmission fluid, I decided to also drain and fill the rear differential fluid. Following are my observations:

1. The rear differential fluid was not that bad. It could have lasted another 10K miles. Also the MM had not shown the code 6. I would say that it is safe to skip the rear differential fluid drain and fill at 30K miles if you are paying a dealer. If you are doing it yourself, considering the minimal cost, it is not a bad idea. It took an extra 20 minutes and I was going at a fairly slow pace.

2. As I had mentioned in my previous post, I had accidentally used two 20mm crush washers. This time I used the correct 18mm and 20mm washers. When I removed the drain plug, the 20mm washer did not fall out. It was stuck and it took some effort to pull it out. I was glad I had the latex gloves on.

3. For the transmission drain and fill you need to open two screws in the plastic splash shield under the engine. Do not remove any of the push clips.

4. I drained and filled the transmission twice. Some threads have recommended doing this thrice. I felt twice was good enough. The fluid was almost pink in color.

Hope this helps.
 

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txs again Black Pearl, I did mine today and it was a breeze!
 

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did mine today too. to be safe, i bought a new 11" 3/8" flex head ratchet instead of using my shorter one. The flex head seem to help just getting the darn thing in there into the bolt since i didn't have the rear on jackstands ). i also bought the pump like a couple of others posted. was a little of a pita using a small pump when lying on the ground and trying to hold the house so it's on the upper part of the fill hole (small hose it came with). but it's cleaner this way. took a few pumps and had to rest a little since i'm in awkward position doing this by myself. if there was someone else nearby that can do the pumping, that'd be much easier (or having a lift!).
 

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forgot to say, mine had marks for where the bolt is vs. the case as reference. not sure if this is standard from the factory but i usually do that for all factory tightened bolts (in case i can't find a torque wrench). plus also in case i may not have enough leverage for my torque wrench (like the tranny drain bolt). so i just used the guides and re-marked it again.
 

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^^ In practice, it doesn't matter which side is up.

What DOES matter is the cleanliness of the washer, bolt, and mating surface on the engine. Grit promotes leaks...
 

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Will be tackling the rear diff change on our 2008 EXL this weekend. Interesting thing is this is only the second diff change the MM has called for since we purchased the car. the first one was around 20K and the dealership did it for free due to all the 2007 issues. (purchased our 08 in Nov 2007). We're now at a couple clicks shy of 140K on the ODO and it is running great.

I bought the short filler tube off Amazon, the one with the quarter turn shut off. Costs around 3 bucks.

Interesting thing is when I stopped at the dealership to buy the fluid, the service guy told me that I only needed one quart. Everything I've seen and read says 1.3 quarts. Ended up buying another quart to be safe.

New tires, brakes and diff fluid change. We are ready for winter.
 

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Update to the process. I modified Black Pearl's process a tad for my 2008 diff change. I ended up jacking up the CRV and placing it on jack stands so I could get more clearance underneath the back end. This allowed me to use a breaker bar on the fill and drain plugs. No issues and no blood. Just some nice even pressure to remove the plugs. I did use a dead blow hammer to lightly tap the breaker bar in to the plug so I was not in danger of damaging the plug.

Once the diff started draining, I lowered the CRV back down on its wheels to get a good fluid drain. Once empty, back up, drain plug crush washers changed, and torqued back in to place. The short tube worked good, however I did have to hold the jug up by the rear strut to get almost all the fluid out. On the .3 of the 1.3 Quart fill, I added what I thought was .3 and then put the V back on the wheels. Let the overage in the fluid drain off in to the catch pan, and inserted the fill plug. Back up on the stands one more time to torque down the fill plug (with new crush washer) and clean off the rear diff.

With multiple jack ups and downs, the process was 30 min.

Thanks for a great writeup.
 

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I'm not new to the forum but have had no real reason to post anything, which is good. I have a 09 crv which I bought new and after reading BP's procedure I found it to be pretty straight forward. When I had it in for the second oil change about 18,000 miles at the dealership the service dept. recommended to have the rear end fluid changed. He said Honda puts break in additives in the rear end fluid. It was the middle of winter in MN so I said go for it. So now with 50,000 miles on it I decided to do it myself. Dealer now wants $85 to do it without figuring in taxes etc. Stopped at the parts department picked up 2 quarts plus the washers for a little over $18 including tax. If you have a Costco card at this dealership they give you a 15% discount on parts. So it only took about a 1/2 hr. and I used the pump to add the fluid which worked great. At 30,000 miles it was pretty dark so the next time I may change it at 25,000. Thanks again for the excellent write up.
 

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Thanks for this. Got it done, no bloody nuckles! Noise is gone.

Does the fluid lose its lubricity and that's why it has to be changed so frequently?
 

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Best practice is to replace the Dual Pump II fluid every 30K miles or two years.

Originally, Honda specified a 90K mile replacement interval on the differential fluid, but they always 'moaned' on tight turns 'way before.
 

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Best practice is to replace the Dual Pump II fluid every 30K miles or two years.

Originally, Honda specified a 90K mile replacement interval on the differential fluid, but they always 'moaned' on tight turns 'way before.
I am a newbie here but I have worked on my 2004 CRv that I bought new and have had the dealer do work also....and I work on my Honda/Yamaha et al Motorcycles for 50 years. I too was wondering about the change interval. As a Rabid "Click and Clack" Cartalk fan, I do believe them when they say they (one is now dead) have seen many of these cars and if you wait till 90k you are crazy. They reccommend 40 k. Some here say 30k which is fine. I think I will change from 40k to 30k and do my next one at 130k this month. Just did the coolant (the last change was done by the dealer and they put in green stuff....grrrrrr) and will put in my first set of brake pads in about a year. The Honda service manual is excellent. I will ask my question about changing the power steering pump fluid in the proper place.
 
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