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It is so easy to do that I just do it every summer along with the transmission fluid.
LOL! At my age I dont even buy green bananas but your point is well taken. I will find out the correct crush washers for the 04 CRV and get the fluid ordered....
My car might outlive me!
 

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Sorry if this was all ready posted.....

2004 CRV diff. crush washers.
Honda Part No. 90471-PX4-000 18 mm I.D. solid Aluminium , non-folded
Honda Part No. 94109-20000 20 mm I.D. solid AL, non- folded.
I am sure there are some very good after market crush washers out there, but there are also some that I have tried that are too hard. Ebay and Amazon carry the OEM ones very reasonably. Dealer wants $2 each.

(Update: It does appear that others are correct. You dont really know if you need two 20mms or a 20 and an 18, I changed my fluid today. My 2004 needed two 20 mms. The parts dept was ahhhh remiss in not telling me I might find both. Luckily, Ebay came through and delivered me my bag of 20 mm Honda sealing washers yesterday. FYI the dealer had changed my fluid before and the fill plug came off with no issues....I had to hire an orangatan to untorque the drain plug. The fluid was slightly discolored.)
 

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Greetings,

I have a 2013 CR-V and a few weeks ago I changed the rear diff fluid as directed by the MM. No noise from the rear end. I drained the fluid and added new fluid (a new quart of dual pump and one that was opened, acquired from a friend). The car started to shudder in tight turns after the change.

I bought two new quarts of fluid, did a drain - fill - drive in circles - drain and fill. The shuddering lessened.

After thinking about what might have gone wrong I realized I only elevated the rear of the car and might mot have enough fluid in the case. I leveled the car and added almost a quarter of a quart of fluid.

Shuddering has not improved in tight turns. Not all the time, but it will shudder in every tight turn.

This weekend I am going to do the drain and fill 3 times with 4 quarts of new unopened fluid from Honda with driving between drain and fill 1 and 2.

Am I missing something here? Has anyone had this happen before? Did I do damage to the rear diff by not having enough fluid in it?
 

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Everything in Moderation
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Never heard of the issues you are having.

But, if fluid is the issue, you should feel a difference after one more drain.


Do the 'clutch burnish' procedure again too before you try another fluid change (figure eights at slow speed in a parking lot).

Be sure to report back.
 

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Definitely do at least 8 slow tight light wheel-lock type turns in each direction several times. Shouldn't have to do that sequence more than a couple of times.
Doing a drain and fill 3 more times in quick succession will most likely just be a waste of DP2.
Perhaps just more driving will solve the problem. Not sure if being a half-quart low can cause that problem in such a short time or not.
Buffalo4
 

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I took the car to the dealership yesterday since it was still under the Certified Pre-Owned warranty. Figured in case something was actually wrong they could do the troubleshooting. The dealer ship said there were no maintenance records on the car. I bought the car there and they changed the diff fluid prior to buying the car (along with tires, filters, and oil) before offering it for sale. It was a waste. They recommended new tire and front/rear brakes since they were getting low. Said they would do a drain, fill, drive in circles, drain and fill for $250. But they would not guarantee the shuddering would go away. I told them to do nothing and I would pick the car up. While there I purchase more fluid. Tonight when I got home from work I leveled the car, drained and refilled the fluid. Drove in circles (both directions) without much of a change. Leveled the car again, drained and filled. A short drive the noise still seems to be there.

I'm at a loss now. Any advice would be great.

The car still has two years and approx 28,000 miles left on the certified pre-owned warranty. I have all the receipts from the maintenance that I've preformed on the car since we purchased it, (oil, transmission and rear diff) so they should honor the warranty if something were to happen I would assume.

I'm just concerned about doing more damage since it shudders during tight turns. Not thru the entire turn, just part of it. The dealer did not have a next step in the troubleshooting process. Since they did not have a "next step" should I even be concerned?

Thanks,
 

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hook247,
Is everyone in agreement that the noise is actually coming from the rear differential?
Perhaps drive with a couple of people in the front and back or the CRV with the windows open and see what they hear and where they hear it.
I would sure not recommend spending that $250 for the Dealership to do their 2 drain and fills while driving in tight circles.
Not really a figure 8 type drive, but tight circles in each direction around 8 times. IE: 8 cirles CCW and then 8 circles CW, or vice versa.
Are you positive it isn't coming from one of the front CV axle joints?
Buffalo4
 

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I have no idea, I assume it is the rear diff.

The car made no noise. I change the oil, rotate the tires, change the rear diff fluid. The car shudders all the time when making a tight turn. I drain and fill a couple of times the shuddering lessens. Drain and fill a two more times with no change.

I can only point the blame to the rear diff. Maybe the rotating the tires.... But that should have nothing to do with it.
 

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Everything in Moderation
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Since your V has a CPO warranty I would go back to the dealer to document that changing the fluid didn't help. The records of your previous service (and DPII purchases) will help prove that you have addressed all the maintenance that is required.


Be SURE to save the receipts as the dealership has proven they do not keep them. (Have them write down that they changed the diff fluid when the car was purchased.)

Let them take the next step to resolve your shudder.


++++++++++++++++


Just thinking out of the box here, but is it possible that you are hearing tire scrub during the tight turns? I KNOW that old tires can amplify this. What are the date codes on your tires? (This is most noticeable from the front tires, but hey, I'm just trying to see if the cause could be something other than in the rear...)
 

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My next thought is to tell the dealer, that I completed the TSB for the fluid and ask them what they are going to do next. But what concerns me is that the the mechanic said it might not eliminate the shuddering entirely. Which I was not happy with that answer. I might stop in on Monday and ask them what's next? To me it is ridiculous that "they" are unable to fix a car and are willing to say they might be able to fix it, but make no guarantee.

My first thought was it might have something to do with the tires, but according to my wife the noise did not exist prior to the first fluid change. The tires do need to be replaced, but I'm not willing to buy tires for a car that has a possible unrepairable trouble.
 

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Many Thanks Black Pearl for a great Rear Dif. Oil Change Pictures/Essay, good to know only to use the Honda Oil, that would be expensive to find out the hard way!, Yet another reason why having a great site like this, is fortunate to be sure, Do hope Madame Black Pearl's Shop Rate was reasonable!
 

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Hey Black Pearl. Nice write-up. Any chance you can print those TSBs from post 1 to PDF and post those? I'm unable to view without a username and password.
 

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Hey Black Pearl. Nice write-up. Any chance you can print those TSBs from post 1 to PDF and post those? I'm unable to view without a username and password.
Since the last time he posted was four years ago I doubt you'll get a response.

Having said that, he posted all of the instructions/steps to change the fluid in the rear differential.
 
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