Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
2013 Honda CR-V EX-L (no navigation)
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I changed the brake fluid on my 2013 CRV EX-L 2.4L with DOT 3 synthetic Prestone using my Mittivac vacuum brake bleeder. The pedal is on the soft side (as it was before), not spongy but I am not happy. I have changed the brake fluid with this vacuum brake bleed in several cars in the past and always I had a firm pedal without any air in the system. I did FL, FR, RR and RL by adding grease around the threads to avoid air in the system. With the bleeder closed and the hose connected the vacuum was held fine showing an air tight system but when I was cranking the bleeder, especially on the back wheels I could see air bubbles running thru the hose. I do not think with all this vacuum air was able to move into the system.

Do you have a somewhat soft pedal in your CRVs? Am I missing something for the CRV?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
88 Posts
I changed the brake fluid on my 2013 CRV EX-L 2.4L with DOT 3 synthetic Prestone using my Mittivac vacuum brake bleeder. The pedal is on the soft side (as it was before), not spongy but I am not happy. I have changed the brake fluid with this vacuum brake bleed in several cars in the past and always I had a firm pedal without any air in the system. I did FL, FR, RR and RL by adding grease around the threads to avoid air in the system. With the bleeder closed and the hose connected the vacuum was held fine showing an air tight system but when I was cranking the bleeder, especially on the back wheels I could see air bubbles running thru the hose. I do not think with all this vacuum air was able to move into the system.

Do you have a somewhat soft pedal in your CRVs? Am I missing something for the CRV?

You should always do the furthest to the closest in bleeding. RR, RL, FR, FL
 

·
Registered
2012 CRV EX AWD
Joined
·
305 Posts
You should always do the furthest to the closest in bleeding. RR, RL, FR, FL
Honda bleeding should be FL, FR, RR and RL.
I always do it with the helper pumping the pedal. My wife does excellent job for many years.
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
9,271 Posts
The first thing I would try is to actuate the ABS pump by driving on two different surfaces (paved or gravel, or wet or dry). That will purge air from the ABS circuits. Might need to bleed again after that.


Did you buy the V new? It could have been 'bled' wrong if for some reason the master cylinder was replaced. The master might need to be 'bench bled', or at least unbolted from its mount so that it can be tipped in all directions to expel any air pockets.

You need to be careful pumping a pedal if the master was either NEVER bled, or always bled by a vacuum bleeder or pressure bleeder. Damage can occur is moisture has corroded the cylinder linings, then the pedal was pushed beyond its typical travel. The rough, corroded cylinders could be causing leaks/poor sealing.

Post back with results...
.
 

·
Registered
2013 Honda CR-V EX-L (no navigation)
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Did you buy the V new? It could have been 'bled' wrong if for some reason the master cylinder was replaced. The master might need to be 'bench bled', or at least unbolted from its mount so that it can be tipped in all directions to expel any air pockets.
I am the second owner and have the car for a little more than two years. The car had full service records from a local Honda dealership before I buy it. I did not see anything about a master cylinder change. If it was changed, the dealer would probably did the work since everything was done there and I assume it was done properly. I will never know of course if the technician messed up.
I may try to activate the ABS a couple of times and bleed all 4 wheels one more time.
 

·
Registered
2016 CRV EX-L AWD
Joined
·
324 Posts
I changed the brake fluid on my 2013 CRV EX-L 2.4L with DOT 3 synthetic Prestone using my Mittivac vacuum brake bleeder. The pedal is on the soft side (as it was before), not spongy but I am not happy. I have changed the brake fluid with this vacuum brake bleed in several cars in the past and always I had a firm pedal without any air in the system. I did FL, FR, RR and RL by adding grease around the threads to avoid air in the system. With the bleeder closed and the hose connected the vacuum was held fine showing an air tight system but when I was cranking the bleeder, especially on the back wheels I could see air bubbles running thru the hose. I do not think with all this vacuum air was able to move into the system.

Do you have a somewhat soft pedal in your CRVs? Am I missing something for the CRV?

If you see air bubbles in the tube then your bleeder nipple or the rubber adapter is leaking/sucking in air. How much of a turn are you turning on the nipple. Probably only need no more than 1/4 of a turn.
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
9,271 Posts
I've often seen air bubbles in the exit bleed tubes when using the vacuum bleeder. It has not been an issue for me regards pedal feel afterwards.

Make sure you cut off any stretched portions of your tubing periodically (I do it every 3 - 4 bleed sessions).

Coating the bleeder threads with grease is Good Practice, BTW! 🏆
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
651 Posts
Honda bleeding should be FL, FR, RR and RL.
I always do it with the helper pumping the pedal. My wife does excellent job for many years.
I barely remember debating this a few years ago. I still contend, front to back, back to front... either will work just fine.
 

·
Registered
2013 Honda CR-V EX-L (no navigation)
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
The air bubbles were definitely introduced by the bleeder threads which I had carefully covered in thick grease. The hose was attached securely and keeping vacuum with a steady gauge when the bleeder was closed. As soon I was turning the bleeder screw even for 1/8 turn bubbles appeared. Has anyone tried any different type of bleeder screws that eliminate the thread induced air?
 

·
Registered
2016 CRV EX-L AWD
Joined
·
324 Posts
You might have to do the push pedal method which you are pushing fluid out instead of sucking it out, and have someone close the bleeder when you release the pedal.
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
9,271 Posts
have someone close the bleeder when you release the pedal
To be clear,

With the 'push-pedal' method, the Best Practice is to close the bleeder while the 'pumper' holds the pedal DOWN. Again, best to limit the pedal travel though...a block of wood in the footwell (or an old phone book :sneaky::ROFLMAO: ) would serve to prevent the pedal from visiting the 'unused' portions of pedal travel.

But, don't forget to remove the block before going for a drive...BTDT! o_O
 
  • Like
Reactions: yst and 8dragon

·
Registered
2013 Honda CR-V EX-L (no navigation)
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
I did the brake bleeding again today following the same vacuum process with a couple of changes and almost no bubbles appeared in the hoses except an occasional bubble every few minutes. Again, I did not take off the wheels but I put the rear wheels on ramps. I turned the steering wheel all the way to the left and using my vacuum brake bleeder I did the front left wheel first by using plenty of grease on the threads and turning just 1/8 turn so fluid was coming out very slowly. It was almost as slow as gravity bleeding. Then I did front right, rear right and finally rear left. It worked very nice without bubbles but it took a lot of time, maybe 15 minutes per wheel to get out 3-4 fl oz each. Fluid was new anyway since I did it again a couple of days ago. Now I am convinced that there is no air in the brake system at least at the wheel bleeders. The pedal is somewhat on the soft side with the engine on but firm when the engine is off. Thank you all for your input!
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,228 Posts
I did the brake bleeding again today following the same vacuum process with a couple of changes and almost no bubbles appeared in the hoses except an occasional bubble every few minutes. Again, I did not take off the wheels but I put the rear wheels on ramps. I turned the steering wheel all the way to the left and using my vacuum brake bleeder I did the front left wheel first by using plenty of grease on the threads and turning just 1/8 turn so fluid was coming out very slowly. It was almost as slow as gravity bleeding. Then I did front right, rear right and finally rear left. It worked very nice without bubbles but it took a lot of time, maybe 15 minutes per wheel to get out 3-4 fl oz each. Fluid was new anyway since I did it again a couple of days ago. Now I am convinced that there is no air in the brake system at least at the wheel bleeders. The pedal is somewhat on the soft side with the engine on but firm when the engine is off. Thank you all for your input!
I don't advise driving with the engine off to get the firmer brake pedal. :eek::D

Have you investigated the brake booster as an issue? Possible vacuum leak?
 

·
Registered
2013 Honda CR-V EX-L (no navigation)
Joined
·
14 Posts
Discussion Starter #16

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
2,228 Posts
It was just a thought.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
241 Posts
You guys are brave to flush your own brakes... I'd only trust an ASE tech to do it!
 

·
Everything in Moderation
2006 CR-V EX, 5MT
Joined
·
9,271 Posts
You guys are brave to flush your own brakes... I'd only trust an ASE tech to do it!
When I first started driving, I was afraid to work on such an important safety system as brakes. 🥶

After several poor repairs by ASE techs, I learned to do my own.:mad:

They are really not THAT difficult. Lots of YouTube vids, these days.:giggle:
 
  • Like
Reactions: Kurbel
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top