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Just went to start my 2017 CRV Touring model and when went to start it lights flashed and I got "Break System Hold Problem" then "Brake System Problem" error messages. When I exit the car there is beep beep beep beep and I can't lock the car. Now when I try there are no flashing lights, just "Brake System Problem" light only. None of the electronics work. Waiting for the tow truck, and dealership is completely flummoxed when I call. Has anyone else had this problem?
 

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Could be a bad battery, which brings up all sorts of unrelated alarms on the 5th Gen. Let us know when you find out.
 

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AAA came and jumped the battery, and the car started right up. I went to the dealership and they said the battery was fine. They seem to completely clueless about how these high-tech cars lose power. Car seems fine, but this morning it is dead as a door nail. Something is draining the battery, I’ve done some reading and this is a problem with the fifth generation CRV. The batteries are basically the same battery from the 80s, but there are more demands on the electrical system… That’s the way it was explained to me. I think my two-year-old battery is getting weak, and just the normal functions of the car are draining it. I’m going to make them replace it on Monday. I will keep this post updated, and let you all know what I find out. I absolutely love this car, but can’t have a car I can’t rely on. I drive a lot and can’t afford to be stranded alone.
 

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There have been a number of reports of defective batteries in gen5 CRVs (and I'm sure other vehicles as well.. given that the battery is probably the single largest weak point in these modern vehicles).

The one thing I have had to adapt to in these modern cars and my driving conditions (lots of short trips in town) is to add the battery to my weekly/monthly routine under the hood maintenance checks. As you noted.. these modern cars have a lot of electronic systems in them that continue to draw some trickle current when the vehicle is off.

Normal for a gen5 CRV is 30-50ma trickle drain when parked (per both my personal measurement + reports from other owners on the internet). A fully charged 51R battery should go 35-40 days before it is drained at this pace. If it is more then this.. then something is not turning off correctly and will drain the battery prematurely.

So.. your first step is to check and see if you have any abnormal parasitc drains going on.. and this youtube is an excellent tutorial on how to do that simply and without having to disconnect anything.

The general caveat here is that with Honda's dual charge battery charging system and with a lot of short trips.. your battery is never fully recharged and hence at 100% when you turn your vehicle off for the day. I have learned that in my 2017 Touring CRV... my battery generally will be at around 85% charge after parked for several hours (time to bleed off the surface charge which would give you an incorrect higher voltage reading) and is pretty stable over time from that point. This is due to my short trip pattern and the effects of the Honda dual charge circuits. Not bad.. and the battery passes my monthly health checks for CCA, start voltage, and charging system checks. But since batteries live longest when periodically charged to full capacity... monthly I put the battery on a smart battery charger to insure it is fully charged to saturation. The smart charger does an outstanding job of optimizing the charge levels and total capacity.

I use an Ancel BA101 digital battery and charging tester on my car once a month to assess the health status of the battery and the charging system in my CRV. Easy to use and covers all the needed tests to insure your battery is healthy. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M0ARG3X/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Nothing sacred about the Ancel unit.. there are a wide number of similar units for sale for similar low prices.

The other thing I did was put a bluetooth enabled smart battery monitor on my CRV. It runs at very low current (1-2ma) and will continuously monitor battery voltage and holds a 30 day set of measured data which can be read out at your leisure via an App on your smart phone or tablet. It has enabled me to see all the traits and characeristics of how a perfectly good 51R battery is behaving in my CRV over time. I typically start the app and check once a week on the prior weeks data... so I have learned the CRVs charging and discharging habits now very well. Not a necessity by any means.. but very convenient - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07GP1RXYZ/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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AAA came and jumped the battery, and the car started right up. I went to the dealership and they said the battery was fine. They seem to completely clueless about how these high-tech cars lose power. Car seems fine, but this morning it is dead as a door nail. Something is draining the battery, I’ve done some reading and this is a problem with the fifth generation CRV. The batteries are basically the same battery from the 80s, but there are more demands on the electrical system… That’s the way it was explained to me. I think my two-year-old battery is getting weak, and just the normal functions of the car are draining it. I’m going to make them replace it on Monday. I will keep this post updated, and let you all know what I find out. I absolutely love this car, but can’t have a car I can’t rely on. I drive a lot and can’t afford to be stranded alone.
Sounds very much like your battery was simply in a low state of charge. The question then becomes why? and what if anything needs to be done about it.

Specifically.. when they said the battery was fine.. did they provide you with any specifics? Did they give you the little printout (looks like a small register receipt) that comes from their test unit? Or did they just tell you it was fine?

I ask because there are three core things that are checked during a battery test (see my other post above it you would like to be able to do this on your own anytime you like): CCA, start voltage, and state of charge. They likely also check the charging system to insure charge voltage is normal and there are no diode leaks. Generally... the dealers are looking at CCA and start voltage as primary indicators of health, and will simply note state of charge of the battery unless it is very low (since many Hondas are perpetually not at 100% charge state due to the dual charging circuits Honda has used for years now).
 

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It is time to replace the battery. It will do it again. If you got 24 months from your battery that is about all they do. Mine did the jump thing 3 times and after a 100 mile drive, I stopped at an auto parts store and the car still needed jumped - it got a new battery. The Honda battery test the day before said it was OK - I suspect a cell started to short out when driven.

All new cars are computers with wheels and if there is not enough battery - nothing moves but the lights and horn still work.
 

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We shouldn't have to be troubleshooting a two year old CR-V ourselves--the dealer needs to do this. I'm pretty much convinced the 5th gen CR-V is a lemon, reading all the many problems with them in this forum, and elsewhere. I'm so disgusted with my 2009 at the moment that I'm contemplating selling both of ours. Honda needs to up their game on these newer models or they will be losing me.
 

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We shouldn't have to be troubleshooting a two year old CR-V ourselves--the dealer needs to do this. I'm pretty much convinced the 5th gen CR-V is a lemon, reading all the many problems with them in this forum, and elsewhere. I'm so disgusted with my 2009 at the moment that I'm contemplating selling both of ours. Honda needs to up their game on these newer models or they will be losing me.
Honestly.. not that many problems being reported considering the number of them on the road now days. And this is an enthusiast forum.. where there are more experienced and savvy owners, not to mention it IS the place to come to compare notes and find solutions (be they dealer driven or owner driven).

You are entitled to feel this way of course... but my experience with the gen5 has been almost all positive in the two years I have owned it. It's also my 3rd CRV and the best one so far. I've only had two issues... one an early recall for possible defective fuel line install at the factory and one warranty claim for a broken shift button. Both documented and handled by my dealer very well.

As for the troubleshooting responsibility... while I agree that primary responsibility falls on the dealer and Honda support engineers behind the dealers.... to take the view that the owner has zero interest and responsibility in getting any vehicle issue resolved is misplaced in this modern era of vehicles. It is a shared responsibility precisely because the owner is in the best possible position to record and communicate issues, and first line troubleshooting by an owner is ALWAYS a prudent move (best interests of the owner) .. particularly given how many owners do not actually trust dealers... ANY dealers.. regardless of brand.

On topic.. my battery still tests well and has no issues. It's now a little over 2 years old, and I'm used to getting about 4 years on my factory battery.. which appears will be the case here as well. When tested (by me or by the dealer) the battery rated at 410CCA consistently puts out 495CCA. Testing shows it delivers solid voltage (11.5 -12 vdc) to start the vehicle, even when in a state of undercharge. That said.. batteries are probably the least reliable component in any vehicle.. and factory OEM batteries generally do not last as long as their replacements... so any expectation otherwise is misplaced.
 

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Is there a better battery than the manufacturer battery for the 2017 CRV? I am having the same issues with battery life.
 

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The battery died on my 2017 CRV EXL in April 2019. It was towed to the dealer & they replaced it under warranty. I always turn off the a/c, heat, radio, wipers before turning off the car. Yesterday when I attempted to lock it, I heard an odd high pitched beep. Four hours later, I noticed my tail lights were on. I tried to start it and received the “ brake system problem “ error. Dashboard lit up but it wouldn’t start. I assume it’s another battery issue, after five months 😡. I’m not the techie type to monitor battery levels, etc. 😱 it shouldn’t be this much work to rely on a two year old Honda!
 

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I’m not the techie type to monitor battery levels, etc. 😱 it shouldn’t be this much work to rely on a two year old Honda!
Hopefully it is still under warranty and you can get another new battery out of them! But it's ridiculous, though, I agree. It does make me wonder if their battery supplier for the 2017+ models is building a poor product. If it were out of warranty, I would probably be finding a way to install a larger battery, as some here have done with their older CR-Vs. I do have a few sets of jumper cables, but I am tempted to buy one of those "jumper packs" so I can jump-start any of ours if needed, without needing another car.
 

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Hopefully it is still under warranty and you can get another new battery out of them! But it's ridiculous, though, I agree. It does make me wonder if their battery supplier for the 2017+ models is building a poor product. If it were out of warranty, I would probably be finding a way to install a larger battery, as some here have done with their older CR-Vs. I do have a few sets of jumper cables, but I am tempted to buy one of those "jumper packs" so I can jump-start any of ours if needed, without needing another car.
Get a pack. I got a (huge) Duracell one (with an air compressor, convenient!) after the old 2017 parking brake battery issue. Just last weekend my battery died after 27 months and 35k and I was able to use it to get to the shop.
 

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Hopefully it is still under warranty and you can get another new battery out of them! But it's ridiculous, though, I agree. It does make me wonder if their battery supplier for the 2017+ models is building a poor product. If it were out of warranty, I would probably be finding a way to install a larger battery, as some here have done with their older CR-Vs. I do have a few sets of jumper cables, but I am tempted to buy one of those "jumper packs" so I can jump-start any of ours if needed, without needing another car.
Definitely get a jumper pack. They are small, and easy to maintain and store, and fairly inexpensive.

That said.. many of them actually will not work on a battery depleted below 10 vdc (read the fine print, so you are not surprised at an inopportune moment) ... so best to also keep a set of jumper cables in the cargo area as well.. just in case you face a truly dead battery rather then a battery just too low to start the vehicle.
 

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Sounds very much like your battery was simply in a low state of charge. The question then becomes why? and what if anything needs to be done about it.

Specifically.. when they said the battery was fine.. did they provide you with any specifics? Did they give you the little printout (looks like a small register receipt) that comes from their test unit? Or did they just tell you it was fine?

I ask because there are three core things that are checked during a battery test (see my other post above it you would like to be able to do this on your own anytime you like): CCA, start voltage, and state of charge. They likely also check the charging system to insure charge voltage is normal and there are no diode leaks. Generally... the dealers are looking at CCA and start voltage as primary indicators of health, and will simply note state of charge of the battery unless it is very low (since many Hondas are perpetually not at 100% charge state due to the dual charging circuits Honda has used for years now).
Sounds very much like your battery was simply in a low state of charge. The question then becomes why? and what if anything needs to be done about it.

Specifically.. when they said the battery was fine.. did they provide you with any specifics? Did they give you the little printout (looks like a small register receipt) that comes from their test unit? Or did they just tell you it was fine?

I ask because there are three core things that are checked during a battery test (see my other post above it you would like to be able to do this on your own anytime you like): CCA, start voltage, and state of charge. They likely also check the charging system to insure charge voltage is normal and there are no diode leaks. Generally... the dealers are looking at CCA and start voltage as primary indicators of health, and will simply note state of charge of the battery unless it is very low (since many Hondas are perpetually not at 100% charge state due to the dual charging circuits Honda has used for years now).
 

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AAA came and jumped the battery, and the car started right up. I went to the dealership and they said the battery was fine. They seem to completely clueless about how these high-tech cars lose power. Car seems fine, but this morning it is dead as a door nail. Something is draining the battery, I’ve done some reading and this is a problem with the fifth generation CRV. The batteries are basically the same battery from the 80s, but there are more demands on the electrical system… That’s the way it was explained to me. I think my two-year-old battery is getting weak, and just the normal functions of the car are draining it. I’m going to make them replace it on Monday. I will keep this post updated, and let you all know what I find out. I absolutely love this car, but can’t have a car I can’t rely on. I drive a lot and can’t afford to be stranded alone.
Wow, Trix, glad I saw your post, same thing happened to me last week. Road side assist told me they see this a lot ....jumpstarted my car and drove to the dealership. They were very condescending. and suggested that bc I drive only 5 mins to work, and it is parked there for a 8 hr shift outside (no garage) that that is not enough to recharge the battery and suggested that I find ways to "extend" my driving. Really? So, this has never happened in my previous cars or the first 2 years with this car & now I have to change my driving habit? They sent me on my way because the battery "tested fine". Again, I got off my shift at 11pm and the car was dead, so here we go again...
Also, I am going to print out the posts from W williamsji.
Thank you williamsji for your intelligent, non condescending comments on why this is happening. I do love my CRV and understand that the batteries they are using are from other manufacturers. However, my Honda service rep could learn a lot from you.
 

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C'mon Honda... you can come up with a better excuse then this!
I have a 2017 Touring and have had the dash light up like a Christmas tree several times with all the safety & brake systems shutting down. I've taken it to the local dealer and they claim to have done a software update but we are still having the same issues. Today I took it in AGAIN and this time I got their "Master Mechanic" to talk to me. The "Head Service Tech" and "Master Mechanic" both claim that the system shutting down is a "Safety" precaution and is typically engaged if its Raining, Snowing or if the car gets dirty, WHAT?! I responded with "So you are telling me that Honda designed the car to turn OFF all its Safety Features if it detects bad weather or the car gets dirty? Wouldn't that be the time you need the safety features the most? I think these cars are so popular that it would cost Honda WAY too much money to re-call the systems so they are playing dumb hoping that no one proceeds with further action.
 

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Damn right I want those systems to shutdown. Last thing I need is a compromised blinded vision and radar system slamming the brakes on a wet slippery road for no reason.
 

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Ugh I’m stuck in the Kroger pick up spot now because my CRV won’t start. Roadside assistance is on the way. Honda already replaced the battery once. This is insane on a not even 3 year old car.
 

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Not enough to go on.
What yr? What Model? Mileage?
Manual or auto.
Does the engine spin over with the starter and not start?
Do the dash warning lights come on?
Will it start with a battery jump? There are some problems with the battery draining down by itself that have been reported.
Buffalo4
 
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