Honda CR-V Owners Club Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi all 2002 cr-v in the UK. The other day I went to drive off in my manual 5 gear cr-v and the clutch pedal just went to the floor with no pressure at all leaving me having to grind into gear and the pedal just stayed their leaving me to have to physically lift the pedal back up with my foot ! Someone told me it was most probably the clutch slave that had failed, I've now replaced it and attempted to bleed it but still there is no pressure and the pedal just goes to the floor and stays there . Can anyone give me any ideas please ? As I don't know where to look next as I can't find any leakage anywhere, could it be the clutch master or a spring on the pedal or something in the clutch fork and bearings itself ? Is it anything I can do my self ( I'm not too mechanically minded ) or is it an expensive trip to the garage? .
Any help greatly appreciated.
Thanks for reading.
 

·
Everything in Moderation
Joined
·
7,919 Posts
I had your symptoms when the clutch MASTER failed. (Broken return spring inside the cylinder)

Don't buy an aftermarket master cylinder, I had two of those fail afterwards...the bolt heads broke off the plate each time! (Two different made-in-China brands :mad: ) Get a dealer OEM part, even if you have to wait an extra day or two.

It's not a terribly difficult replacement, but if you decide to DIY post back. I can give you some tips.

PS: I deleted your other Topic on the same issue...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I had your symptoms when the clutch MASTER failed. (Broken return spring inside the cylinder)

Don't buy an aftermarket master cylinder, I had two of those fail afterwards...the bolt heads broke off the plate each time! (Two different made-in-China brands
) Get a dealer OEM part, even if you have to wait an extra day or two.

It's not a terribly difficult replacement, but if you decide to DIY post back. I can give you some tips.

PS: I deleted your other Topic on the same issue...
That's a great help thankyou will order a new master tomorrow any tips you can give me in preparation will be greatly appreciated.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Best tip is to make sure you keep everything "operating room clean".

Don't allow dirt to get into any lines, reservoirs, and cylinders. And clean brake fluid. Or else, you'll be doing it allover again too soon
 

·
Everything in Moderation
Joined
·
7,919 Posts
Tips:

1. test-fit the retaining clip that secures the brake line fitting (top of cylinder). (The one that looks kinda like a staple.) Sometimes metal flashing prevents them from fully being inserted.

2. Release the flared brake line fitting while it's in the car, rather than the retaining clip. It's a LOT easier to screw in the flare retainer than struggle with that clip. Assemble the retainer before you bolt the new cylinder to the firewall. Make sure the new o-ring is fitted properly. On one cylinder, I needed to clamp it in the vice to insert the flare fitting enough for the clip

3. Make sure the plunger rod is adjusted to the same length as the old one. One thread (one turn) makes a difference, and it's difficult to adjust without removing the clevis pin again.

4. Don't lose the retaining clip on the pedal retaining ring. I found mine (in the carpeting) 6 months later...meantime I drilled a hole for a cotter pin!

You may have realized that it's easier to reach the slave cylinder (for bleeding) if you remove the rubber intake / throttle body elbow...then you can reach it from the top (and see what you are reaching). I needed to have a helper pump the pedal...could not get the air out with my vacuum bleeder.



And yes, it goes without saying that anytime you are into hydraulics, CLEANLINESS is PARAMOUNT. Wipe/spray down everything in the area before you begin. Anything you drop will surely land in goo!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Hi carbuff2 done as explained and with help I've bleed bleed and bleed again . Nothing but fluid with not an air bubble in site but just to be sure bleed it once more . Now slave and master are both new along with fluid of course and still no resistance on the pedal and still it stays to the floor ! At my wits end now ! Anymore suggestions apart from by a Ford ( only joking ) but please I need help urgently.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
done as explained and with help I've bleed bleed and bleed again . Nothing but fluid with not an air bubble in site but just to be sure bleed it once more . Now slave and master are both new along with fluid of course and still no resistance on the pedal and still it stays to the floor ! At my wits end now ! Anymore suggestions apart from by a Ford ( only joking ) but please I need help urgently.
 

·
Everything in Moderation
Joined
·
7,919 Posts
I think he is saying to attempt to bleed in the opposite direction from normal...that is, instead of pushing the clutch pedal down, push the clutch fork (the 'arm' that the slave normally pushes on). Take excess fluid from the clutch reservoir.

You may have a bubble inside the slave cylinder....get it? By pushing (or even, propping it in position) you will negate the compression of the air in the slave cylinder, and air will purge out.

Another strategy is to use a PRESSURE bleeder at the slave to bleed in the opposite direction.

Finally, because you have replaced both the slave and master cylinders, you may have air stuck inside. Tapping the cylinders with the back of a screwdriver while bleeding will often dislodge the bubbles.

The final attempt would be to bench-bleed the cylinders. Unbolt the mountings and tilt them while bleeding, again tapping the cylinders as you bleed.

I have had slave cylinders that needed to be hanging by their hoses in a vertical position in order to purge air.


WHEW!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Hi I have now changed the slave and the master cylinders and bled until the cows come home but still no pressure on the pedal and it still stays to the floor! Now at my wits end. Please any more suggestions? .
 

·
Everything in Moderation
Joined
·
7,919 Posts
I'm at a loss too, unless the new master's pushrod is adjusted improperly.

There is a return path for the fluid from the reservoir. If the pushrod is not allowing the seals to uncover it, you may not be moving any fluid.



We're assuming that you lifted the pedal upwards to it's home position the first few pumps?

Have you inspected the new Master to assure that it is not leaking past the flat plate with the three bolts?

Have you tried a pressure bleeder from the Slave side?

Have you tapped both cylinders while bleeding, to expel air? (Another air-expelling strategy is to do one or two rapid pumps. Then resume the normal slow count, 1- Mississippi 2- Mississippi etc, between top & bottom of pedal travel.)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
I'm at a loss too, unless the new master's pushrod is adjusted improperly.

There is a return path for the fluid from the reservoir. If the pushrod is not allowing the seals to uncover it, you may not be moving any fluid.



We're assuming that you lifted the pedal upwards to it's home position the first few pumps?

Have you inspected the new Master to assure that it is not leaking past the flat plate with the three bolts?

Have you tried a pressure bleeder from the Slave side?

Have you tapped both cylinders while bleeding, to expel air? (Another air-expelling strategy is to do one or two rapid pumps. Then resume the normal slow count, 1- Mississippi 2- Mississippi etc, between top & bottom of pedal travel.)
i meant to say put some pressure against the piston of the slave. This can be done with the slave in place, push on the clutch fork to do so.
Hi just an update I've given bleeding the clutch another go as garage can't book till Thursday. Well got loads and loads of air out and pedal now has resistance and returns and I can select gears and drive. Only fault is with a crunch/grind as it goes into 2nd gear so if you have any suggestions on that it will be fantastic as gone fromantic 0% - 90% just looking for that other 10% ...
 

·
Everything in Moderation
Joined
·
7,919 Posts
As I said

Prop the clutch pedal to the floor overnight. (using a stick or windshield scraper etc)

If the air is in the Master cylinder, it will expel...(ALWAYS needed to do that on my Triumph Spitfire. :) )
What did you do different when bleeding, to get 90% effectiveness?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Just had someone else helping me this time as it's hard to be at the pedal and watching the reservoir bottle and underneath for the bleed nipper all at once lol
That extra pair of eyes and feet just made things a little easier. Just the 2nd gear in the way now.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2 Posts
1998 Honda crv new clutch new flywheel new master cylinder and a new slave cylinder bled the system got it to go into gear and drive about a mile then boom I loose the clutch again peddle stays firm but it won't go into gear anyone know of what I might have going in I'm stumped?
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top