[Ray Charron]

Hi! 2016 CRV LX-

Am wondering if there is a "trick" to popping out and accessing the centre console DC power jack, without having to dismantle and/or extract parts of the console itself (or perhaps the whole thing). My connector is playing Possum despite having a known-good fuse and testing with a known-good device. Vehicle was bought used and possibly previous owner was "gadget-happy".

I was going to chastise previous owner for not having bought a spare phone charger etc that --by just being left in the vehicle-- would have saved the functionality of the now-powerless connector I'm seemingly stuck with. However I came up empty when fishing through the glove box for the $5 snap-pack fuse assortment (which should have been wedged between the Owner`s Manual, the First Aid Kit, and various things I tell people to have in their vehicle). Thus I lost my apetite for complaining, upon realizing I had apparently failed to follow my own advice to others.

My level of auto-trim and auto-electric competence is probably high-average, so any suggestions --even if including/requiring a rip-out-- would be greatly appreciated.

Cheers, Ray Charron
Barrie (ON) Canada

 

[williamsji]

Generally speaking those 12v sockets are held in place with a metal clip retainer on the reverse side of the panel they are mounted to. So, no, you will have to remove the panel to remove and change the socket. It should not be a big deal to remove the panel, but you will likely need special plastic tools to help pop the the panel from the plastic retaining points. Best to search for a youtube DIY for this before you start your adventure.

While the 12 cigarette lighter style socket is convenient when needing to access 12 power for accessories, they are by no means very reliable. They can be easily damaged by poor connectors plugged into them that in turn cause the socket to get burned and sometimes melted. A simple loose connection between plug and socket has been known to melt or otherwise damage the socket.

 

[rocky]

Have you used a circuit tester to probe not just the (?) 20amp fuse to be sure both sides show power, but also the 12v outlets etc? There are special USB power outlet meters as well.....

But if the PO was gadget mad, I sure hope he didn't damage the USB outlet itself.

6/12V Circuit Tester with 5 ft. Lead

Amazing deals on this 6/12V Circuit Tester With 5Ft Lead at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

Klein Tools Type-A USB Digital Multimeter ET900 - The Home Depot

The Klein Tools ET900 is a USB digital meter for common standard USB-A (Type A) ports including Qualcomm Quick Charge ports. It accurately and reliably measures and displays the USB port voltage, current,

www.homedepot.com

 

[Ray Charron]

Dear Gents, thanks for the replies & thoughtful ideas.
Williamsji- Upon further examination, I realized the cigarette lighter style socket was mounted in a "D" shaped sub-panel that snaps into the console (also contains my two heated seat switches). So yes extracting & replacing suspect socket just got a great deal easier/quicker- and with the right "kitchen utensils" I should be able to pop out the sub-panel with little or no damage. And if I don't "find" 12V on the back of that socket when it comes out, then you'll likely "find" me again on this forum!

Rocky- Well just in case the "known-working" plug-in devices I was using for test, weren't somehow making proper contact inside the socket, I decided to ring out the socket with my handy-dandy note... um, er, my handy-dandy Fluke 77 DVM (some habits die hard, don't they?). Anyway I measured zilch anywhere inside so I'll have to go with the "bad socket" theory for-now ,unless s'thing got disconnected betw the fooze panel and the socket (or possibly melted off as-suggested by Williamsji).. But just for s's and g's, I'll take your advice and test both sides of the fuse for 12V, just to be sure.

Cheers

Ray

 

[Ray Charron]

Um, Williamsji I just realized your user name was certainly not a gender give-away. So pls disregard my "gents" comment if does not apply, and pls accept my excuses. But the goodwill comments certainly still stand!

Cheers

Ray

 

[Ray Charron]

Generally speaking those 12v sockets are held in place with a metal clip retainer on the reverse side of the panel they are mounted to. So, no, you will have to remove the panel to remove and change the socket. It should not be a big deal to remove the panel, but you will likely need special plastic tools to help pop the the panel from the plastic retaining points. Best to search for a youtube DIY for this before you start your adventure.

While the 12 cigarette lighter style socket is convenient when needing to access 12 power for accessories, they are by no means very reliable. They can be easily damaged by poor connectors plugged into them that in turn cause the socket to get burned and sometimes melted. A simple loose connection between plug and socket has been known to melt or otherwise damage the socket.

Hi Williamsji

The "sub panel" I thought would pop out (with my power socket & two heated seat switches) was actually fastened to the central console panel (from the rear) with five Philips pan-head self-tapping screws. I needed to remove my accessory tray, lift my arm-rest compartment cover, gently pop-out the centre console panel which is held in by several plastic snap-fasteners (the kind that sound like they're breaking when they release) then tilt that panel forward to access the rear and extract the screws that hold in the smaller panel. In order to make things easier I pulled the harness connectors off the backs of the two Heated Seat accessory switches and the problematic power socket itself. The socket harness connector is a no-brainer at re-assembly however the two heated seat switches are somewhat identical, don't appear to be keyed and could easily be confused when re-connecting to the harness (best to ID them). I then started up to energize everything, and subsequently found ~14VDC on the centre (+ve) female lug of the power socket's harness connector. So power WAS in fact making the trip all the way to the back of the socket, but evidently not getting through and energizing the "pad" at the base of the socket (where contact gets made with whatever one plugs into it). Anyway the bottom line is I need a new power socket. Would you or s'one reading this, have an idea of what the Honda P/N would be for that animal?

Cheers

Ray Charron

 

[williamsji]

Hi Williamsji

The "sub panel" I thought would pop out (with my power socket & two heated seat switches) was actually fastened to the central console panel (from the rear) with five Philips pan-head self-tapping screws. I needed to remove my accessory tray, lift my arm-rest compartment cover, gently pop-out the centre console panel which is held in by several plastic snap-fasteners (the kind that sound like they're breaking when they release) then tilt that panel forward to access the rear and extract the screws that hold in the smaller panel. In order to make things easier I pulled the harness connectors off the backs of the two Heated Seat accessory switches and the problematic power socket itself. The socket harness connector is a no-brainer at re-assembly however the two heated seat switches are somewhat identical, don't appear to be keyed and could easily be confused when re-connecting to the harness (best to ID them). I then started up to energize everything, and subsequently found ~14VDC on the centre (+ve) female lug of the power socket's harness connector. So power WAS in fact making the trip all the way to the back of the socket, but evidently not getting through and energizing the "pad" at the base of the socket (where contact gets made with whatever one plugs into it). Anyway the bottom line is I need a new power socket. Would you or s'one reading this, have an idea of what the Honda P/N would be for that animal?

Cheers

Ray Charron

No idea as to part numbers. You can try one of the online merchants that sell Honda parts, as they have pretty good search and even drawings that show the association of one part to another which can help in the search.

 

[Ams 2155]

Honda genius at work. I had the same problem. Fuse was good. I tried to run an air inflator. Burned out the front and center console outlets. Turns out the cigarette outlet has its own internal non-replaceable fusible link. Once you overload the outlet you have to replace the outlet sleeve. It’s fairly easy to replace. The part is about $18 MSRP. Check the power first with multimeter. Note the orientation of the outlet (Put the new one in the same orientation). Push in the 2 tabs inside the outlet ( the small square holes about halfway down) while pulling up on the outlet. A bent pick helps push in the tabs and pull up on the outlet. As you pull out the outlet tie a string around the wires so they don’t fall back into the hole (or you’ll have to take the console apart). Disconnect the outlet, connect the new one. Push new outlet into the holder at the same orientation as the old one. You’ll notice a click when the tabs engages. Done. Check for power. Five minutes tops.
Here’s a link to the problem (Gen5 but the same for Gen 3-4).

accessory power socket - not working/no power

This morning I was using a car vacuum that was plugged into the power socket in the dash and then suddenly the vaccum stopped. Checked the power socket by plugging in another device (a USB phone charger adapater), also no power. Checked the fuse in the interior fuse box and the fuse wasn’t...

www.crvownersclub.com